CONTENTS
Prologue
A journey that centers around a destination restaurant—one that also explores the local history, culture, and producers. That is the essence of BISHOKU QUEST.
This time, the stage is set along the coast of the Ariake Sea, connecting the prefectures of Kumamoto, Kagoshima, and Fukuoka.
It became a journey of encountering not only fine cuisine at renowned establishments, but also the land’s unique climate and the daily lives of its people.
DAY1
From Fukuoka to Kumamoto — The Journey Begins with Lunch in Arao
On the way from Fukuoka City to Kumamoto City by car, we exited the highway to visit Arao City in Kumamoto Prefecture. Located right next to Ōmuta City, this is an area that’s often passed by, but this time, we decided to stop for lunch.
Our destination was PIZZERIA AVENTO, a restaurant I had looked up on Tabelog during a previous visit to Arao and had been wanting to try ever since. Known for its authentic Neapolitan pizzas baked in a wood-fired oven, it had long been on my list.
Reservations can be made via Instagram DMs, and when booking, you’re required to provide your arrival time and the number of pizzas you’d like in advance. Since it’s a popular spot, booking early is essential to ensure you get to eat.
PIZZERIA AVENTO
The exterior of the restaurant has a simple, calming atmosphere.
At the entrance, a sign read “Sold Out.” I breathed a sigh of relief knowing that making a reservation was the right decision.
Inside, the spacious and open dining area features counter seats, table seating, and even a terrace—making it adaptable to various occasions. At the counter, you can watch the pizza being made up close, enjoying the chef’s handiwork and the baking process.
What really catches the eye is the wood-fired oven made by Stefano Ferrara, a traditional Neapolitan craftsman. It’s said that this oven evenly distributes heat to quickly bake the dough, producing the ideal Neapolitan pizza. Its commanding presence immediately raises your expectations for the meal ahead.
Perfectly Baked Pizza and Carefully Selected Ingredients
You place your order after sitting down and browsing the menu. Every option is tempting, but I chose the Margherita and the Bismarck with Kōshin bacon.
Before the pizzas arrived, a staff member offered samples of tomatoes grown by Narimatsu Farm in Kumamoto, which are also sold near the entrance. Just one bite revealed a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity—a burst of fresh flavor. Learning that these tomatoes are used in the pizza sauce only heightened the anticipation.
Margherita
First came the Margherita. The sauce made from Narimatsu Farm tomatoes, melting mozzarella, and the aroma of basil combined for a flavor that was simple yet profound.
Bismarck with Kōshin Bacon
Next came the Bismarck. A soft-boiled egg sat gently in the center, and when cut, the yolk oozed out across the pizza. It paired perfectly with the savory Kōshin bacon, resulting in a luxurious and satisfying bite.
The Kōshin bacon, made from Kōshin pork raised on natural water and additive-free feed, is house-smoked. It delivers a concentrated meaty flavor with a nice balance of richness and saltiness.
Despite the large size of the pizzas, the dough was surprisingly light and fluffy with a pleasantly chewy texture. The surface had a toasty crispness, and with each bite, the wheat’s aroma expanded in the mouth. Even two full-sized pizzas were gone in no time, enjoyed to the very last bite.
The Chef’s Passion and Why I Want to Return
After finishing the meal, I had the chance to speak with the chef. Originally employed in Tokyo, he returned to his hometown of Arao and discovered pizza-making through YouTube. He built a pizza oven in his backyard and taught himself through trial and error.
Particularly committed to creating dough with a bread-like lightness, he explained that weather and temperature constantly affect fermentation, requiring daily adjustments to achieve his ideal texture. His pizzas clearly reflect this tireless effort and passion.
That day, he noted with some regret that they weren’t using their usual mozzarella from Daiwa Farm, saying, “I wish you could have tried the Margherita and Caprese with it.” I made a mental note to return and taste them next time.
Also, I learned that during cherry blossom season, the terrace offers a beautiful view of the trees in bloom—yet another reason to revisit.
The pizza was outstanding, but it was the chef’s dedication and the seasonal scenery that made PIZZERIA AVENTOtruly memorable. A new favorite destination has been added to my list.
- ADDRESS
熊本県荒尾市上井手104
- OPEN
月・火・水・木・土・日
11:30 - 15:00 L.O. 14:30
定休日 金
After thoroughly enjoying the pizza, we headed toward the Miike Coal Mine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Known for its role in supporting Japan’s modernization, it holds significant historical value.
However, upon arrival, we were met with an unexpected surprise—it was closed for the day. Though it was disappointing to miss this rare opportunity, we took it in stride and decided to make our way to Kumamoto City instead, saving a visit for next time.
Arriving in Kumamoto City — The Journey’s Base
That night, we stayed at a hotel in Kumamoto City. Since the main part of our journey was set to begin the next day, we decided to take it easy and enjoy a quiet evening in town.
Dinner in Kumamoto — Tacos at “TORTACOS”
For dinner, we had made a reservation at TORTACOS, a Mexican restaurant located just a 3-minute walk from our hotel. It’s situated about 40 meters from the Keitokukōmae tram stop, heading in the direction of RKK, making it easily accessible.
“TORTACOS” is known for its authentic Mexican cuisine, and I had heard that you could enjoy tacos and street food just like you would in Mexico. It was one of the must-visit spots on this trip.
The interior had a casual and warm ambiance, filled with the cheerful spirit of Mexico, further elevating the travel mood. With its colorful decorations, the space felt like stepping into a taco stand on a Mexican street corner.
To kick off the night, I ordered a Mexican beer called TECATE, one of the country’s most iconic brews. Refreshing and clean, it made for a perfect opening toast.
Fluffy potatoes and juicy minced black pork simmered in a tomato-based sauce offered a rich, satisfying bite. The corn tortilla added a toasty aroma, while the fresh vegetables and spices tied everything together perfectly.
This one featured spicy minced black pork seasoned with house spices. The juicy meat and bold heat burst in the mouth, making it a perfect match with the beer.
Made with Asobi Buta, a branded pork from Kumamoto, simply sautéed with salt and pepper to highlight the meat’s natural flavor. Cooked low and slow, the pork was surprisingly tender and melted in the mouth—an entirely different experience from the previous spicier tacos.
Made with wheat-flour tortillas, this one had a soft, chewy texture. The filling—mushrooms and onions sautéed with Mexican chili peppers—was simple yet aromatic.
Wrapped in a soft flour tortilla, this burrito was packed with fresh vegetables. Each bite delivered the crisp textures and natural sweetness of the ingredients. Despite having no meat, it was deeply satisfying, thanks to the quality of the produce.
We also tried Guacamole, a classic Mexican dip, served with firm tortilla chips. Another standout was Chicharrón, crispy pork skin freshly fried to golden perfection, offering a savory crunch with every bite.
Next, we had Sopa Azteca, a traditional Mexican soup made from a tomato base with added chili peppers—spicy, rich, and soul-warming.
For a main course, I ordered Enmolada, chicken tacos topped with Mole Sauce, a traditional and complex Mexican sauce made with chocolate, spices, nuts, and chili peppers. I had always wanted to try this dish, often served during celebrations in Mexico. The bittersweet, spicy, and nutty depth of the mole was unlike anything else.
Though already full, I couldn’t resist ordering more. I chose the Beef Taco and Cochinita Pibil, a traditional dish from the Yucatán Peninsula featuring marinated pork slow-cooked in banana leaves. Topped with pickled red onions and a dash of chili sauce, it offered layers of sweet, sour, and spicy flavors.
Every taco had its own unique charm, revealing a different side of Mexican cuisine with each bite. From the variety of tortillas to the perfectly matched fillings, it was a night full of delicious discoveries.
Having sampled tacos, soup, burritos, mole, and more, I left TORTACOS fully satisfied and impressed by the depth and diversity of Mexican flavors.
- ADDRESS
熊本県熊本市中央区練兵町73
- OPEN
月・火・水・木・金・土
18:00 - 22:00
L.O. 料理21:00 ドリンク21:30
定休日 日
ディナーは食材がなくなり次第閉店する事があります。
平日は不定休がございます。SNSで店休日の告知をしています。
- AWARD
食べログ アジア・エスニック WEST 百名店 2024
With a full belly and a happy heart, we returned to the hotel and looked forward to the journey continuing the next day.
DAY2
Day 2 Itinerary — Heading to Izumi City, Kagoshima
On the second day of the trip, we set off in the morning for Izumi City in Kagoshima Prefecture. From the Mifune Interchange (IC) in Kumamoto Prefecture, we entered the expressway and headed toward our destination: the Izumi Crane Observation Center.
It’s about a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Mifune IC to the Crane Observation Center.
The route took us south along the Kyushu Expressway, exiting at Izumi IC and continuing on local roads. It was a pleasant drive, enjoying the rich nature and landscapes of Kyushu along the way.
Arriving at the Izumi Crane Observation Center
We arrived at the Izumi Crane Observation Center in Izumi City, Kagoshima.
As we drove along the rice field roads on the way, we were surprised to see cranes standing in many places.
We parked in the center’s parking lot and paid a conservation cooperation fee, which covers the entrance fee to the center.
Regular admission is ¥220 for adults and ¥110 for elementary and junior high school students.
There was an “Izumi Plain Crane Information Board” explaining in detail the species of cranes that migrate to the Izumi Plain, their characteristics, and their migration routes.
The representative species that visit Izumi are the White-naped Crane (Manazuru) and the Hooded Crane (Nabezuru).
They breed in Siberia, Russia, and migrate to Japan in autumn. The Izumi Plain is one of Japan’s largest wintering grounds for cranes and has been designated as a National Special Natural Monument.
Reading the information board deepened our understanding of where the cranes in front of us had come from and why they chose this place. Watching them while imagining their long migratory journey made the experience even more moving.
After entering, we immediately headed to the observation room on the second floor. From here, you can get a panoramic view of the vast reclaimed land and observe the cranes up close as they gracefully dance or forage for food.
The morning is especially recommended, as the cranes are most active at that time.
After enjoying the view from the observation room, we went down to get closer to where the cranes were.
Standing on the expansive Izumi Plain, we were surrounded by an astonishing number of cranes, their calls echoing in the air. Even from within the center’s grounds, you can clearly see them from a short distance away.
Here, we used a telephoto lens to photograph the cranes. This allowed us to clearly capture details invisible to the naked eye—delicate feather patterns, cranes playing together, and their slow, elegant steps.
It was fascinating to clearly distinguish between the White-naped and Hooded Cranes through the camera lens.
Capturing the moment they take flight or flap their wings is another unique highlight of this location. I found myself pressing the shutter many times to record their graceful ascent.
The tranquil, peaceful environment makes it easy to understand why cranes choose this place to overwinter.
With camera in hand, I enjoyed precious time observing their behavior in detail.
- ADDRESS
〒899-0435 鹿児島県出水市荘2478番地4
- OPEN
09:00〜17:00（入館受付は16:30まで）
開所期間（期間中は無休）
11月1日〜3月第2日曜日
After crane watching, heading to the wood-fired Italian restaurant “KAI” near Izumi Station
After observing the graceful cranes of the Izumi Plain and enjoying telephoto photography, it was time for lunch. We headed to “KAI,” a wood-fired Italian restaurant near Izumi Station.
It’s about a 15-minute drive from the Crane Observation Center to the station, through rural scenery and along peaceful roads into the city center.
Lingering over lunch before the next destination
We enjoyed refined Italian cuisine that maximized the potential of each ingredient through wood-fired cooking.
The dishes, showcasing skilled fire control, highlighted the natural umami of the ingredients and offered a depth of flavor unique to wood fire.
Sipping coffee after the meal, we savored the lingering flavors.
- ADDRESS
鹿児島県出水市昭和町50-19
- OPEN
火・水・木・金・土・日
12:00 - 15:00
18:00 - 22:00
定休日 月完全予約制、インスタで空き情報を発信
- AWARD
Tabelog Award 2025 Bronze
A luxurious lunch after experiencing the nature of the Izumi Plain and watching cranes felt truly special. Filled with delicious food and calm moments, we set off toward our next destination.
…
To Hitoyoshi City — Arriving at “HASSENBA”
After enjoying crane watching in Izumi City and a wood-fired Italian lunch, we drove on to “HASSENBA” in Hitoyoshi City.
Hitoyoshi is located in the southern part of Kumamoto Prefecture, a historic town blessed by the clear waters of the Kuma River. Once a hub for river transport, it has now been reborn as a center for promoting local food and culture.
“HASSENBA” sits along the Kuma River, combining a café, shop, and tourist information center in a stylish yet warm space.
Inside, large windows open up to sweeping views of the majestic Kuma River. The wood-accented interior creates a relaxing atmosphere—perfect for a break during your travels.
Since we were in Hitoyoshi, we decided to try the famous Kuma River boat ride and headed to the reception desk.
The reception was decorated with “Kumamon,” Kumamoto’s beloved mascot, dressed for the occasion. However, the staff informed us that the last boarding time was 3:00 PM.
Checking the clock, we realized we had already missed it. A little disappointed not to experience one of Hitoyoshi’s signature activities, we promised ourselves, “Next time, we’ll come earlier and definitely take the ride.”
Here, you can enjoy sweets and drinks made with local ingredients. The café menu offers everything from coffee and craft beer to juices made with regional specialties—all tempting choices.
Although we couldn’t go on the boat ride, stepping outside HASSENBA revealed the vast flow of the Kuma River right before us.
Along the river, boats used for the river cruise were moored. Even without boarding, their presence added to the charm of the scene. Sunlight danced on the calm waters, and we lingered for a while to take it all in.
Looking around, we noticed the nearby ruins of Hitoyoshi Castle. Once the seat of the Sagara clan, today only the stone walls and gates remain, but the site still exudes a sense of history.
- ADDRESS
〒868-0033 熊本県人吉市下新町３３３−１
- OPEN
9時00分～17時00分
定休日 水
Visiting Sengetsu Shuzo — Discovering Traditional Kuma Shochu
After a relaxing time at HASSENBA, we headed to “Sengetsu Shuzo,” a renowned shochu distillery representing Hitoyoshi.
With a history of over 120 years, Sengetsu Shuzo produces Kuma Shochu using the pure waters of the Kuma River and traditional methods. Their shochu is beloved by enthusiasts across Japan.
After checking in, we began the distillery tour. Inside, large earthenware fermentation jars and stills lined the space, and we learned how artisans carefully craft their shochu.
Photography inside was prohibited, so while I couldn’t capture the process, I made sure to record it in my mind.
The tour concluded in the souvenir area, where an impressive variety of Sengetsu shochu was on display. Guests can sample freely to find their favorite—from crisp, clean rice shochu to richly aromatic long-aged varieties.
- ADDRESS
〒868-0052 熊本県人吉市新町１
- OPEN
9：00～17：00 （最終受付16：30）
Exploring Aoi Aso Shrine — A National Treasure of Hitoyoshi
Next, we visited Aoi Aso Shrine, a historic landmark of Hitoyoshi.
Designated as Kumamoto Prefecture’s first National Treasure, this shrine has a history of about 1,200 years. Located in the city center, it greets visitors with a stately presence.
A thatched-roof gate welcomes you into this historic sacred site.
Upon stepping into the shrine grounds, the first sight is the magnificent thatched-roof romon (two-story gate). Rare in Shinto architecture, the thatch gives the shrine a warm, welcoming feel.
Passing through the gate, you find the honden (main hall) and other shrine buildings, all dating back to the early Edo period—over 400 years of history evident in their dignified presence.
Inside the main hall, a solemn prayer ceremony was taking place.
Since it was the Hina Matsuri season, displays of hina dolls were arranged within the grounds.
The sight of elaborate tiered doll displays in the serene setting of a historic shrine added a special seasonal charm to our visit.
Aoi Daijingu Inner and Outer Shrines within the grounds
Continuing deeper into the grounds after viewing the prayer and hina displays, we found the Aoi Daijingu quietly standing.
This sacred site houses Inner and Outer Shrines that enshrine deities from Ise Jingu.
Near the Aoi Daijingu, we noticed a statue of “Kumagatake Inosuke,” a sumo wrestler from Hitoyoshi who gained fame for his powerful matches, representing the area’s connection to sumo culture.
- ADDRESS
〒868-0005 熊本県人吉市上青井町１１８
- OPEN
お祓受付 午前9時〜11時半・午後1時〜4時
朱印受付 午前9時〜午後4時
お守授与 午前9時〜午後4時30分
- AWARD
国宝
After our time at Aoi Aso Shrine, we headed to the next destination.
…
To Hitoyoshi Station in the Heart of the City
Hitoyoshi Station is known for its historic, atmospheric station building. It was once the departure point for the sightseeing train “SL Hitoyoshi,” which ran along the Hisatsu Line between Kumamoto and Hitoyoshi. Currently, the line is suspended due to damage from the 2020 Kyushu floods, but the station area remains lively with tourists and locals.
Arriving at the station, the eye is immediately drawn to the “Karakuri Clock” in the plaza.
Walking through the plaza, we spotted a sign for “Kisha Bento” (train station lunch boxes).
Though we didn’t buy one this time, the shop’s appearance conveyed the long history of welcoming travelers over the years.
Inside the station building, a “short-distance fare chart” hung on the wall.
At present, trains do not operate on the Hisatsu Line due to the flood damage. Normally, it would cost ¥1,850 to travel from Kumamoto Station to Hitoyoshi Station, but until service is restored, one can only hope to see trains return and the station bustling again.
An illustrated map of Hitoyoshi City gave an instant overview of its attractions, from Aoi Aso Shrine and Hitoyoshi Castle Ruins to riverside sightseeing spots, hot spring districts, and Kuma shochu breweries.
It was clear at a glance that this is a town blessed with both history and nature.
Steam Locomotive on Display in the Station Plaza — A Piece of Railway Heritage
Walking toward the Hitoyoshi Railway Museum area, we found a stately steam locomotive (SL) proudly displayed.
This was the “SL Hitoyoshi” that once ran between Kumamoto and Hitoyoshi. Even at rest, its gleaming black body, shining wheels, and powerful form evoked the energy of its operating days.
A mini-train here reproduces the distinctive sound and smoke of an SL, and visitors can ride it for ¥400 round trip (¥200 one way) along a short course.
From the rooftop, you can view the Hitoyoshi Engine House, built in 1911 and the only operational stone-built locomotive shed in Japan.
Unfortunately, the museum shop was closed on the day of our visit, so we couldn’t experience either. Next time, I’d like to enjoy both the shop and the rides.
- ADDRESS
熊本県人吉市中青井町343-14
- OPEN
9:00～17:00
定休日 毎週水曜日（水曜が祝日の場合は翌日）
年末年始（12/30～1/2）
Evening in Hitoyoshi — Edo-style Sushi at “Sushi Mimuro”
“Sushi Mimuro” offers authentic Edomae-style sushi in Hitoyoshi.
The owner’s family once ran “Mikoma-zushi,” a beloved local sushi restaurant. Though he had not planned to take over the business, he trained at a renowned sushi shop in Ginza. In 2020, the family home was destroyed in the Kyushu floods, prompting his return to open Sushi Mimuro.
The sushi combines premium seafood sourced from Toyosu Market with local ingredients from Hitoyoshi, prepared in classic Edo-style techniques such as aging and kelp curing. Each piece reflects skill and dedication.
Equally notable is the Ginza-honed hospitality. The attentive service and comfortable space allow diners to savor each bite in peace.
Overcoming disaster, Sushi Mimuro embodies Edo-style craftsmanship and heartfelt service—an ideal dining choice for a special night in Hitoyoshi.
- ADDRESS
熊本県人吉市駒井田町212-1
- OPEN
12:00 - 14:30
18:00 - 22:30
定休日 不定休
- AWARD
Tabelog Award 2025 Bronz,食べログ 寿司 WEST 百名店 2025
After dinner, we returned to Kumamoto City, enjoying the nighttime drive and the lingering glow of the day’s experiences.
DAY3
Stopping in Tamana City Before Returning to Fukuoka
On the final day, we left Kumamoto City and stopped in Tamana City, Kumamoto Prefecture, on the way back to Fukuoka.
Located in northern Kumamoto, Tamana is known for its hot springs, famous ramen shops, and historic temples and shrines. With its peaceful rural landscapes, time flows gently here.
It promised to be a fitting finale, enjoying the charms of Kumamoto to the very end.
Arriving at “Peg” in Tamana City
On the way back to Fukuoka, we stopped for lunch at “Peg” in Tamana.
First, we visited “ROK,” a bakery on the same premises.
Run by the chef’s wife, ROK is dedicated to additive-free breadmaking. The shelves are lined with simple breads that showcase the flavor of the ingredients, attracting many customers for freshly baked goods each day.
The aroma of freshly baked bread greets you inside, where the showcase displays focaccia, bagels, and loaves—but most sell out by late morning.
A small counter offers a place for locals to drop in for coffee and conversation, adding to the welcoming atmosphere.
We took some bread home to enjoy later:
Potato and herb focaccia — Chewy texture with a gentle herb aroma.
Shio-pan (salt bread) — Toasting brings out even more of its crisp, fragrant crust.
Bagel with additive-free Koshin pork sausage — The juicy Kumamoto pork sausage matches perfectly with the bagel’s chewy bite.
- ADDRESS
熊本県玉名郡和水町藤田560
- OPEN
10:00 - 17:00 売り切れ次第閉店
毎月の営業日はInstagramをご確認ください
Lunch at “Peg”
Finally, it was time for lunch at Peg.
Peg offers dishes that highlight local Tamana ingredients in a stylish, minimalist space. The exterior is simple yet refined, with a calm interior.
The menu features vegetables, meats, and other local produce, prepared simply but with care to bring out their best qualities. Each plate was crafted with precision and beautifully presented.
- ADDRESS
熊本県玉名郡和水町藤田560
- OPEN
火・水・木・金・土
12:00 - 15:00
定休日 月・日
After Peg — To Kusamakura Onsen Tensui
After enjoying lunch at Peg, we headed to “Kusamakura Onsen Tensui” in Tensui-machi, Tamana, to end the trip with a hot spring soak.
This onsen sits in the setting of Natsume Soseki’s literary classic “Kusamakura” and is famed for its open-air baths with panoramic views.
From the baths, the Ariake Sea stretches out before you, offering a liberating view.
The combination of sea and sky melts away travel fatigue.
The sodium bicarbonate hot spring water is known as “beauty water” for leaving skin smooth and moisturized.
- ADDRESS
〒861-5401 熊本県玉名市天水町小天５１１−１
- OPEN
10:00～21:00（最終受付20:30）
休館：不定休
Post-Onsen Meal — Tamana Ramen at “Tōen”
After a rejuvenating soak, we headed to “Tōen,” a long-loved ramen shop in Tamana, for a proper sauna meal.
Tamana ramen is said to be the origin of Kumamoto ramen, and Tōen is one of the most iconic local spots.
I ordered the “Deluxe Ramen” with all toppings. As soon as it arrived, the staff asked if I wanted garlic, then generously added freshly roasted garlic on the spot—the aroma instantly sharpened my appetite.
The broth is tonkotsu-based yet light in flavor.
The straight medium-thin noodles become richer when mixed with raw egg—a delightful change in taste and texture.
Savoring this bowl, I could feel the roots of Kumamoto ramen—a fitting finale to the trip.
- ADDRESS
熊本県玉名市繁根木官有無番地
- OPEN
月・水・木・金・土・日
11:00 - 01:00
定休日 火曜日※祝日の場合は翌日
With body refreshed from the onsen and stomach satisfied from ramen, we headed back to Fukuoka, closing a fulfilling journey through Kumamoto.
Epilogue
Summary of the Culinary Journey Along the Ariake Sea Coast
Traveling along the Ariake Sea coast, this journey was not just about food, but about experiencing the landscapes, culture, and daily life of each place. Learning the stories and backgrounds behind the ingredients on each plate transformed dining into a part of the journey itself.
From new challenges born from recovery to the depth of dishes where tradition and innovation meet, each encounter reaffirmed the power of food.
Exploring the diverse culinary world shaped by the Ariake region’s climate and culture became a journey that truly captured the heartbeat of the region.
