Ultramarinos Marín

Concept

Among the rising stars of Barcelona’s vibrant culinary scene is Ultramarinos Marín, a restaurant led by chef Borja García, known for his masterful focus on showcasing the innate character of ingredients.

Blending the retro charm of a 1970s Spanish bar with a modern aesthetic, the restaurant features two distinct areas: a lively bar zone with a 12-seat counter where guests can watch the chefs cook live, and a more tranquil asador zone, where oak and olive wood-fired grills are used to bring out the depth of seasonal ingredients. The contrast between these two settings encapsulates the restaurant’s unique rhythm.

The menu is built around simplicity and precision. From house-made charcuterie and terrines to wood-grilled seafood and fermented sauces, every dish reflects care and technical finesse. Many items can be ordered in half or third portions, making it easy for small groups to explore a variety of flavors.

Chef Borja García

Chef Borja García brings a wealth of experience from acclaimed restaurants like Etxebarri in the Basque Country, Noma in Denmark, and Dos Pebrots in Barcelona. His culinary philosophy centers on restraint and purity—no unnecessary garnishes, just deep flavor and well-honed technique. By incorporating traditional practices such as fermentation and aging, he creates distinctive elements like house-made garum and artisanal charcuterie.

Accolades & Recognition

• Michelin Guide: Featured for its traditional-style asador concept.

• The World’s 50 Best Discovery: Highlighted for its strong local following and respect within the chef community.

• TheFork Rating: Scored 9.1/10 for its food, service, and ambiance.

• OAD (Opinionated About Dining): Listed as a standout for its quality and execution under Chef García and team.

Dining Prelude

Exterior & Entrance

From the outside, Ultramarinos Marín evokes a 1970s bar, complete with neon signs and a slot machine at the entrance. But stepping inside reveals a contemporary, open kitchen and a sleek, modern space—an intentional contrast that surprises and delights visitors.

Dining Space

After passing through the retro-style entrance, the restaurant splits into two distinct areas:

The Bar Area: A dynamic, counter-centered space for casual, tapas-style dining. Here, diners can observe the chefs as they prepare each dish using live-fire and fermentation techniques. The rhythm is fast-paced but thoughtful.
The Asador Area: Tucked toward the back, this is a quiet, relaxed dining room where wood-fired grills take center stage. Meats, fish, and vegetables are charred to perfection over oak and olive wood, offering a heartier, more contemplative experience.
On this occasion, the meal was enjoyed at the bar counter, where the showcase of the day’s seafood and meats glowed under the light. Watching the ingredients get chosen, prepped, and cooked mere feet away added a palpable sense of excitement—less like a restaurant, more like a live culinary performance.

Menu Presentation

Dishes are selected both from a printed menu and by pointing out ingredients on display in the counter’s showcase. Though the Catalan names may be initially puzzling, the visual lineup helps guests intuitively navigate their choices.

Meats and seafood are picked, grilled, and served all within view—more interaction than menu-reading, more spontaneity than structure.

Starter Drink

To begin, a glass of Viñas de Caldereta 2021, a Brut Nature made entirely from Xarel·lo, a native Catalan grape. Produced by natural winemaker CASAJOÚ, this sparkling wine is bone-dry and unfiltered, with fine bubbles and floral-peary aromas. Its minerality and crispness paired perfectly with the nutty starters and seafood to come.

Dishes Tasted

Fried Marcona Almonds

As the wine arrived, so did a bowl of fried Marcona almonds, lightly roasted in olive oil and finished with a hint of sea salt. Crunchy on the outside, tender on the inside, these nuts quietly signaled the kitchen’s commitment to doing simple things exceptionally well.

Anchovy & Butter Bread

A thick slice of grilled bread topped with Cantabrian anchovies and generous fermented butter. The salt and fat melded seamlessly, with the toast adding just the right charred support. A humble but perfectly balanced start—an early sign this meal would linger in memory.

Sea Urchin

A whole sea urchin arrived in its spiny shell—raw, unadorned. Inside, the vibrant orange roe offered a briny sweetness and subtle bitterness. No seasoning necessary. It was a pristine taste of the sea, made even more poignant by its pairing with the Xarel·lo.

Scampi (Escamarlans)

From the moment it caught the eye in the showcase, the scampi beckoned. Within minutes of ordering, it was grilled and served. The shell crackled, the flesh melted. A light, emulsified sauce tied it all together without masking its essence. A masterclass in timing and restraint.

Fried Potatoes with Aioli

Whole patatas were fried skin-on until crisp and airy, served with a garlic aioli. When the creamy sauce touched the hot potato flesh, it sank in, amplifying the aroma and depth. A dish that proves—again—that simplicity can astonish.

Spanish Ham (Unexpected Delight)

Having heard high praise about their beef ham, we ordered it—only to be served a rich, marbled pork jamón, likely Iberico or Serrano. Disappointment turned quickly to delight as the flavor proved superb: silky fat, gentle salt, and an almost nutty sweetness. Not what we expected, but entirely satisfying.

Foie Gras Terrine

A neat, rectangular slice of foie gras terrine, laid on a custom-branded paper. No garnish, no sauce—just the perfect temperature and fat content. It melted slowly, offering a creamy, almost nutty finish. For those wary of foie, this dish might change minds.

Pargo (Seabream)

As the main course, we chose a whole pargo, a type of Mediterranean seabream. It was grilled on a plancha, partially covered by a steel bowl to control heat. The final plating was whole, garnished with a rich yet balanced sauce—reminiscent of beurre noisette, but brighter. Every forkful released gentle steam and the sweet aroma of roasted skin.

Guisantes Lágrima (Tear Peas)

The most emotionally moving dish was this: Guisantes lágrima, or “tear peas.” Tiny, glistening green gems served simply in a white bowl. Barely cooked, seasoned only with salt and oil. Their flavor was pure vegetal sweetness—a fleeting peak that only nature can grant. No meat or fish could compete.

Grilled Beef Filet

The final dish was filet de vedella, a lean beef tenderloin. Searing on the plancha filled the air with promise. The meat was perfectly medium-rare, delicately seasoned, and finished with a thin layer of oil to enhance its umami. No frills—just confidence and technique.

Conclusion

Ultramarinos Marín is one of Barcelona’s most talked-about restaurants for good reason.

From the crispy potatoes to the “tear peas” that moved us, every dish was quietly exceptional—memorable not for drama, but for purity and craft.

It was a joy to finally visit. Next time, I hope to sit deeper inside, in the asador zone, and savor Chef Jorge Fuentes’wood-fired creations at leisure.

Reservations & Access

Hours
Mon: Closed
Tue–Fri: 9:00–11:45, 13:00–15:30
Thu–Sat: 19:30–22:00 (dinner service)
Sat: also open for breakfast 9:00–11:45
Sun: Closed

Reservations
Via phone, WhatsApp, or the official website: ultramarinosmarin.com

Asador seating is limited—advance booking recommended.

Address: Carrer de Balmes, 187, 08006 Barcelona, Spain
Nearest Station: FGC “Gràcia” station, about a 5-minute walk
Area: Sarrià–Sant Gervasi district
Easily accessible from the city center—perfect for a gastronomic interlude amid sightseeing or shopping.

TAGS

MICHELIN掲載SPANISHSPAIN GOURMETAsador