From Fukuoka to the Kunisaki Peninsula – The Start of a Culinary Journey

Departing from central Fukuoka City, we drove onto the Kyushu Expressway, aiming first for Kitakyushu Junction. Here, we merged onto the Higashi-Kyushu Expressway and continued toward Oita.

As we sped along the expressway, the urban scenery of Fukuoka gradually gave way to lush green mountains and tranquil rural landscapes. The Higashi-Kyushu Expressway is relatively new, with light traffic, making for a comfortable and enjoyable drive.

To get closer to our destination, we exited the expressway at Usa Interchange (IC).

Under normal circumstances, the shortest route from Usa IC would take us through a mountain road. However, due to snowfall the previous day, travel on this road was not recommended. Since our destination lay beyond a steep and winding mountain pass, we decided to prioritize safety and take the longer but safer coastal route.

From here, we followed local roads toward the Kunisaki Peninsula. As we passed through the town of Usa, the view gradually opened up to the sea, enhancing the sense of excitement for the journey ahead.

Stopover – Matama Beach “Koikana Road”

On the way to our destination, we decided to make a quick stop at Matama Beach.

This beach is famous for its breathtaking sunsets, selected as one of the “Top 100 Sunsets in Japan,” and is also part of the scenic “Koikana (Love-Fulfilled) Road.”

The area is dotted with Instagram-worthy spots popular with couples and families. Among the most famous are the Yuuhi Terrace and a whimsical “anywhere door”-style installation standing alone against the scenery—evoking the feeling that it might lead to another world.

Benches facing the sea invite visitors to sit and take in the view. We saw couples sitting close together and families relaxing at leisure. In the clear winter air, the calm sea stretching to the horizon and the endless tidal flats brought a sense of serenity.

Although we didn’t stop this time, there’s a café near Matama Beach that has caught my attention: “SOBA CAFE Yuuhi.”

Here, guests can enjoy authentic handmade soba noodles while gazing out at the spectacular sunset over the sea—a romantic experience that is especially magical at dusk.

In addition to soba, the café offers a variety of sweets and drinks, making it a perfect spot for a casual visit. It would be an ideal place to take a break during a road trip.

While our schedule didn’t allow for a visit this time, it’s definitely on my list for the future. Between culinary adventures on the Kunisaki Peninsula, it would be wonderful to savor soba while taking in such a magnificent view.

SOBA CAFE ゆうひ

ADDRESS

大分県豊後高田市臼野5125

OPEN

11：00～日没＋１時間

定休日 火曜日

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After enjoying the scenery at Matama Beach and relaxing for a while, we set off again. The detour along the coast made for a pleasant drive, accompanied by the sound of waves, turning the journey itself into a special part of the trip.

A Rest Stop at “Umibe to Coffee Kotori”

After driving a while, a café caught our eye—“Umibe to Coffee Kotori,” which, as its name suggests, offers coffee with a view of the sea.

This peaceful café serves hand-drip coffee in a warm, wooden interior with large windows framing a sweeping ocean view. It’s the perfect spot to take a relaxing break during a trip.

Since we had been making good time toward our destination, we decided to stop for a moment of rest at Umibe to Coffee Kotori.

Inside, a striking coffee roasting machine immediately drew my attention.

After placing our order at the entrance, we removed our shoes and settled into a table.

海辺と珈琲 ことり

ADDRESS

大分県国東市国見町向田向田1893-6 向田海水浴場

OPEN

月・木・金 11:00 - 18:00
土・日 09:00 - 18:00

定休日 火・水

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Leaving the Seaside Café for Kuno-ura, Kunisaki Town

We left Umibe to Coffee Kotori and headed for Kuno-ura in Kunisaki Town.

As we turned inland from the coastal road, the scenery gradually shifted to peaceful rice paddies, with historic temples scattered among them.

The Kunisaki Peninsula was once home to the flourishing Rokugo Manzan culture, and many temples and stone Buddhas remain to this day. Driving past the fields and temples, we felt embraced by the calm atmosphere unique to this land, where time seems to flow at a gentler pace.

Arrival at physis – A Warm Welcome

Passing through the countryside, we finally arrived at our destination: the restaurant physis.

Surrounded by the rich nature of the Kunisaki Peninsula, the restaurant exudes a serene, harmonious atmosphere. The building, with the charm of a renovated traditional house, is simple yet refined.

As we stepped out of the car, the entrance lay quietly ahead. There, the chef’s wife greeted us warmly, her smile and gracious presence instantly making us feel at ease, even as first-time visitors.

And so began a special culinary experience. With growing anticipation, we stepped inside.

2025.03.09

physis （ピュシス）／大分・国東

physis（ピュシス）

ADDRESS

大分県国東市国東町来浦470

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After Dining at physis, Returning Toward Fukuoka

After an exceptional dining experience, we set off for Fukuoka, still savoring the aftertaste.

While we had taken the coastal route on the way in, we decided to try a different route back. The mountain road we had avoided earlier due to snow was now reported safe for travel, so we took it toward Bungotakada City.

Strolling Through the “Showa no Machi” – A Time Slip to the 1950s

Our first stop was “Showa no Machi” in Bungotakada City.

This retro tourist spot recreates the streets of Japan during the late 1950s (Showa 30s era), making you feel as though you’ve stepped back in time.

Along the streets stood old-fashioned shops, wooden buildings, and vintage signboards, creating a warm and nostalgic atmosphere. Scattered among them were dagashi candy shops, retro goods stores, and traditional cafés, allowing visitors to experience the culture of the Showa period up close.

Showa Roman Storehouse – A Retro Spot Packed with Showa Charm

While strolling through Showa no Machi, we stopped by the “Showa Roman Storehouse.” Inside this preserved building were exhibitions recreating life in the Showa era, as well as displays of nostalgic everyday items and toys.

The Showa Roman Storehouse offers a combination ticket granting access to multiple facilities.

Since we had come all this way, we purchased the “3-Facility Pass.”

Our First Stop: “Showa no Yume Machi Sanchome-kan”

Here, the streets of the late 1950s have been recreated in vivid detail, immersing you in the atmosphere of the era.

Inside, you’ll find rows of old-style shops such as barbers, electronics stores, and post offices. The interiors display actual furniture and tools used at the time, faithfully recreating everyday life in the Showa period.

Walking down the recreated alleys, you might stumble upon a living room of the era—complete with a retro television, a low chabudai table, and a black rotary phone. Sitting on the tatami floor, you truly feel as though you’re living in Showa Japan.

Even for those who never experienced the Showa era, the exhibits are designed to be engaging. As we explored, we could sense the atmosphere and lifestyle of that time.
Our next destination: the “Dagashiya Yume Museum.”

Dagashiya Yume Museum

After enjoying the Sanchome-kan, we moved on to the Dagashiya Yume Museum.

This is said to be one of the largest dagashi (traditional penny candy) museums in Japan, with walls lined from floor to ceiling with the sweets and toys beloved during the Showa period.

At the entrance, we were greeted by displays of nostalgic tin toys, menko cards, spinning tops, and miniature cars—treasures that once captured the hearts of children. The space felt just like an authentic Showa-era candy shop.

Further inside, the walls were covered with colorful packaging from the era, offering a glimpse into the design trends and characters of the time. It was fascinating to see not just the sweets themselves, but also how they evolved over the years.

There’s also an area where you can buy actual dagashi, letting you relive the childhood joy of clutching coins and rushing to the candy store. Surrounded by these sweet memories of Showa Japan, we lingered for a while before moving on.

teamLab Gallery Showa no Machi – Experiencing Showa-Era Scenery Through Digital Art

Our final stop within the area was the “teamLab Gallery Showa no Machi.”

Here, the scenery of the Showa era is fused with cutting-edge digital art, creating a dreamlike space.

Visitors can draw characters—men, women, or other figures—on special paper. Once scanned, your drawing comes to life on the screen, moving freely within the projected landscape. The background features the glowing sunset over Matama Beach, with a vast grassland stretching out before you.

The characters you scan roam the grassland and begin interacting with characters drawn by other visitors. Watching them come to life and communicate in this virtual world is entertaining in itself.

Touching a character triggers delightful surprises—sometimes startled reactions, other times unexpected movements—making the entire experience highly interactive.

The blending of Showa streetscapes, digital art, and traditional culture offers a fresh and innovative way to enjoy the Showa era.

昭和ロマン蔵

ADDRESS

豊後高田市新町989-1

OPEN

10時～17時までの営業※土日祝9時～17時
定休日 木曜日

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Visiting Usa Jingu – The Head Shrine of All Hachiman Shrines in Japan

After fully enjoying Showa no Machi, our next destination was Usa Jingu. This grand shrine is the head of approximately 40,000 Hachiman shrines across Japan and is renowned for its history and prestige.

After parking, we walked toward the shrine grounds along a tree-lined approach that radiated a solemn atmosphere, calming the mind. Usa Jingu is notable for its expansive grounds, the long stone staircase leading to the main hall, and its striking vermilion gate.

The shrine grounds are vast, with many points of interest. If it’s your first visit, it’s a good idea to check a grounds map in advance for a smoother experience.

The official Usa Jingu website offers a detailed grounds map showing the locations of the main halls and facilities. Another useful resource is the “National Treasure: Usa Jingu – Walking Map of the Land of Shinbutsu Shugo,” which is handy when exploring surrounding historical and cultural sites.

As you proceed along the approach, you’ll come across the impressive temizuya (purification pavilion). This is where visitors cleanse their hands and mouths before offering prayers, with fresh water flowing constantly.

Usa Jingu’s temizuya features a distinctive bamboo structure, with ladles neatly arranged in a row. This elegant setup further enhances the shrine’s sacred atmosphere.

The chill of the winter water on the skin was invigorating, making me feel the solemnity of the place even more. With my mind and body refreshed, it was time to head toward the main hall.

To reach the main hall of Usa Jingu, you must climb a long flight of stone steps.

This staircase truly feels like the path into a sacred realm. Though the incline is somewhat steep, the surrounding forest air is so fresh that each step brings a growing sense of calm.

At the top of the stairs, a magnificent vermilion gate comes into view—the entrance to the main hall. Passing through it, the atmosphere becomes immediately more solemn.

Arriving at the Main Hall

At the summit, we reached Usa Jingu’s main hall, designated a National Treasure and built in the unique Hachiman-zukuri style.

The main hall consists of three separate sanctuaries—Ichinoden, Niden, and Senden—each dedicated to a different deity.

Ichinoden enshrines Hachiman Okami (Emperor Ojin), revered since ancient times as the god of martial valor and national protection, and worshipped by many samurai throughout history.

The vivid vermilion of the shrine buildings radiates a sacred aura and a deep sense of history. After offering coins, we followed the traditional “two bows, two claps, one bow” ritual for worship.

In the stillness, standing before Ichinoden with hands pressed together felt like having my spirit cleansed. We then continued on to Niden and Senden.

Visiting the Lower Shrine of Usa Jingu

After completing our prayers at the main hall, we followed signs to the Lower Shrine (Shimomiya). Usa Jingu is composed of two major sacred areas: the Upper Shrine (Kamimiya) and the Lower Shrine, each enshrining the same deities.

Traditionally, the Upper Shrine was regarded as the protector of the nation, while the Lower Shrine was worshipped as the guardian of the people. It is recommended to visit both so as not to perform only a “partial pilgrimage.”

The approach to the Lower Shrine winds through forest, opening onto a more modest but equally solemn worship space. Its quiet presence fosters an even deeper sense of reverence.

We completed our prayers here as well, concluding our visit to Usa Jingu. Stepping into such a historic and sacred place was a profound reminder of the depth of Japan’s shrine culture.

The Imperial Family and Usa Jingu – A Noble History

Usa Jingu has long been closely associated with the Japanese Imperial Family.

Even today, members of the Imperial Family sometimes visit for worship, during which special Shinto rites are performed. This enduring connection reflects the shrine’s deep historical and cultural significance.

Nakamise Street – Enjoyment Before and After Worship

Lining the approach to Usa Jingu is Nakamise Street, filled with local specialties, traditional sweets, and regional delicacies—perfect for exploring before or after worship.

Steam Locomotive Display

This steam locomotive, once in active service, now stands as a monument to the history of rail in the region.

In the past, the Usa Sangu Line railway connected directly to Usa Jingu, serving as an important route for pilgrims from before World War II through the postwar period. This preserved locomotive is a tangible reminder of that era.

Usa Jingu and Miyamoto Musashi – Traces of a Master Swordsman

Usa Jingu also holds legends connecting it to the famed swordsman Miyamoto Musashi, founder of the Niten Ichi-ryu style.

Usa Jingu is far more than just a tourist attraction—it is a sacred site shaped by centuries of history and faith. Even after leaving, the sense of reverence lingers in the heart.

宇佐神宮

ADDRESS

大分県宇佐市南宇佐２８５９

OPEN

6時～18時
※正月期間中を除く

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After Worship – Heading to Nakatsu to Enjoy Castle Town History and Cuisine

After our solemn visit to Usa Jingu, our next destination was Nakatsu City. The drive from Usa Jingu to Nakatsu takes about 30 minutes.

Upon arriving at Nakatsu Station, we were greeted by a bronze statue of Yukichi Fukuzawa, the influential educator and author of “An Encouragement of Learning” (“Gakumon no Susume”).
Nakatsu is celebrated as the birthplace of Fukuzawa, one of the key figures in Japan’s modernization. The monument honoring him stands prominently at the station, welcoming visitors.

Next, we visited Nakatsu Daijingu. This Shinto shrine enshrines the divided spirit of Ise Jingu, earning it the affectionate nickname “O-Ise-sama of Buzen Province.”
The grounds are spacious, and there is a free parking area for visitors.

Unfortunately, Nakatsu Castle—which we had been looking forward to visiting—was closed for renovation. From February 20 to early April 2025, the grounds are being transformed with a pond and gardens in front of the keep, with the aim of rebirthing the site as Japan’s premier “Flower Castle.”

Though we couldn’t see the castle this time, we look forward to visiting again after its renewal.

中津城 / 中津大神宮

ADDRESS

大分県中津市二ノ丁1273−2

OPEN

午前９時 〜 午後５時

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Dinner at “Aji Arai” – Savoring Nakatsu’s Culinary Delights

After sightseeing in Nakatsu, we headed to our reserved dinner spot: “Aji Arai.”

This Michelin one-star Japanese restaurant showcases seasonal ingredients from Oita, presented in a refined omakase course. Most seating is at the counter, allowing diners to watch the chef’s skillful work up close—one of the restaurant’s greatest charms.

2025.03.14

味あら井／大分・中津

味あら井

ADDRESS

大分県中津市上博多町2001

OPEN

営業時間
カウンター 16:00~ 19:00~
座敷 19:00~
一斉スタート
定休日 日曜日

AWARD

ミシュラン1つ星,ゴ・エ・ミヨ掲載店,The Tabelog Award 2025 Bronze 受賞店,日本料理 WEST 百名店 2023 選出店

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Journey’s End – A Special Time Immersed in Cuisine and History

This trip was a fulfilling blend of gastronomy, history, and culture.

On the Kunisaki Peninsula, we enjoyed a scenic coastal drive, a relaxing coffee break at “Umibe to Coffee Kotori,” and an extraordinary meal at “physis,” where French culinary techniques met local ingredients.
Choosing the longer coastal route led to delightful, unplanned stops—one of the joys of travel.

At Usa Jingu, we experienced the grandeur and sacred atmosphere of the head shrine of all Hachiman shrines in Japan, exploring its vast grounds and connecting with centuries of tradition.

In Nakatsu, the birthplace of Yukichi Fukuzawa, we traced the footsteps of a man who helped shape modern Japan, and felt the charm of a historic castle town. While Nakatsu Castle was closed for renovations, we look forward to returning to see its new “Flower Castle” form.

We closed the journey with dinner at the Michelin-starred “Aji Arai,” where dishes highlighting the bounty of Oita’s mountains and seas left a lasting impression—every bite resonated with the essence of the season.

The landscapes, history, and heartfelt craftsmanship behind each dish we encountered along the way reminded us that travel is not just about moving from place to place, but about connecting with the culture and stories embedded in each destination.

With these memories in our hearts, we’re already inspired to plan our next journey in search of more culinary treasures and historical encounters.

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