Kanazawa: A Two-Michelin-Star Journey – Prologue

Dishes that delicately reflect the changing seasons, tableware and spaces imbued with the spirit of the land.
Drawn by the depth of such gastronomy, my destination was Hokuriku’s Kanazawa.

In this city, where the culture of the Kaga Domain still thrives, celebrated restaurants attract gourmets from across Japan. Among them, the most striking are the chefs who have earned two Michelin stars.

On this journey, I visited Kanazawa’s two-starred restaurants, savoring each dish while discovering the philosophy of the chefs and the stories behind the ingredients.

The first stop, fitting for the beginning of the trip, made my heart race with anticipation.
Let me introduce its full story to start.

DAY 1 | From Fukuoka Airport to Komatsu Airport

A gourmet journey through Hokuriku’s Kanazawa, exploring its Michelin two-star restaurants.
It all began at Fukuoka Airport.

On this day, I flew with a ANA flight operated by ORC (Oriental Air Bridge).
The propeller aircraft, a DHC8-Q400, cruised at a lower altitude, making the landscapes outside the window feel even closer.
Leaving the bustle of the city behind and gradually shifting into the air of Hokuriku, the journey itself already felt like part of the trip.

Arriving at Komatsu Airport, I was greeted by the warm atmosphere typical of a regional airport and the words “Welcome to Komatsu Airport.”
With decorations inspired by traditional Kaga crafts, the space already evoked the spirit of Kanazawa.

From there, I headed into Kanazawa city, bound for the first two-starred restaurant.
Let me share, dish by dish, the charm of that first course menu.

From Komatsu Airport to Kanazawa Station

After arriving at the airport, I took the limousine bus to Kanazawa Station’s west exit.
The stop was No. 1, with clear guidance—no chance of getting lost.

About 40 minutes passed as I gazed out at the tranquil scenery.
It had been about four years since my last visit to Kanazawa.
As the bus drew closer to the city, memories of my previous trip resurfaced, blending nostalgia with excitement.

With those feelings, this journey in Kanazawa was finally about to begin in earnest.

Arrival at Kanazawa Station – An Unexpected Mishap

Upon arriving at Kanazawa Station, I began walking through the concourse toward my hotel.
Perhaps I was a little too excited, uplifted by the familiar sights of Kanazawa after four years.

And then, in a sudden moment—
“Wait… where’s my suitcase?”

I had walked halfway through the station, only to realize I had left my suitcase in the luggage compartment of the limousine bus.
Panicking, I rushed back to the bus stop, just as the bus was returning.
Thankfully, the driver had noticed it, and I was able to recover it safely.

It was only a few minutes, but my blood ran cold.
Though it ended without incident, I couldn’t help but think how disastrous it could have been.
Take extra care with your luggage when traveling—you never know when it might slip your mind.

Shaking off the scare, I made my way to the station’s east exit, to the iconic “Tsuzumi-mon” Gate.
Its grand form never fails to lift the spirit of any traveler.
After snapping a photo, I boarded a bus from the station front, heading to my hotel.

It was still too early to check in, so I left my luggage at the front desk for safekeeping.
From here, the true purpose of my trip—the culinary exploration of Kanazawa—was about to begin.

To Mitsui Garden Hotel Kanazawa

A short bus ride from the station brought me to my accommodation, Mitsui Garden Hotel Kanazawa.
The wooden warmth and modern design of its entrance blended seamlessly, accented with subtle touches of Kaga culture, quietly heightening my anticipation for the journey.

In the lobby, seasonal decorations like Tanabata ornaments and a deer sculpture greeted guests.
Even in these small details, I could sense a connection to the region and its spirit of hospitality.

As it was still before check-in time, I left my bags and prepared for a stroll through the city.

Mitsui Garden Hotel Kanazawa

ADDRESS

Address
1-22 Kamitsutsumicho, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-0869, Japan
Access
By train: About 17 minutes on foot or 8 minutes by taxi from JR Kanazawa Station
By bus: From JR Kanazawa Station East Exit Bus Terminal (stops 8 or 9), get off at “Minamimachi・Oyama Jinja” stop, 2 minutes on foot

OPEN

Check-in / Check-out: 15:00 / 11:00 (may vary depending on plan)

COMMENT

Large public bath on the 13th floor, 15:00 – 9:00 (for guests only, free of charge)
Restaurant: Breakfast 7:00 – 10:30, Dinner 17:00 – 23:00
No on-site parking (affiliated parking available nearby)
Experience programs (reservation required): Rickshaw rides, Kintsugi workshop, Morning strolls, etc.

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A Pause Before Lunch

With some time to spare before lunch, I stopped by a Starbucks near Omicho Market.
Inside, cooled by the air conditioning, I enjoyed a moment with an iced coffee in hand, reviewing my travel plans and catching up on a bit of work.
Watching tourists and locals come and go, I gradually shifted my mindset from daily routine into travel mode.

Leaving the café, I caught the bus at Omicho Market bus stop to head to lunch.
Beside the stop, I came across snow displayed in honor of “Himuro no Hi” (Icehouse Day)—a seasonal custom that felt like a delightful little surprise.

Traditions from the Kaga domain era still live on in such customs.
With a touch of Kanazawa’s unique atmosphere, it was finally time to head to the first two-Michelin-star restaurant of this journey.

Lunch at “Tempura Koizumi”

From Omicho Market, a short bus ride brought me to the renowned two-Michelin-star restaurant, “Tempura Koizumi”.
Nestled quietly in a residential neighborhood, a little away from Kanazawa’s bustling center, the restaurant stands with an understated presence.

Its entrance, framed by stone walls and greenery, with an indigo noren exuding dignity, evoked the air of a traditional ryotei.
It set the stage for the special experience about to begin.

For details on the dishes and the most memorable plates, please see the dedicated blog article below.

2025.08.22

Tempura Koizumi / Kanazawa, Katamachi

Tempura Koizumi

ADDRESS

4-34 Ikedamachi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
(Located on a quiet backstreet in the former Katamachi district)
Nearest station: Approx. 15 minutes on foot from Nomachi Station (Hokuriku Railroad Ishikawa Line)

OPEN

Lunch: from 12:00 (reservation only)
Dinner: from 18:00 (last entry at 20:00)
Closed: irregular holidays (often Sundays)

CONTACT

Tel: +81-76-223-0023

AWARD

Michelin Two Stars — one of the very few tempura-specialty restaurants in Ishikawa to receive such recognition
Selected as one of Tabelog’s “Top 100 Tempura Restaurants 2025”

COMMENT

Course & Price Range
Lunch Omakase Course: from ¥13,200 (tax included, service charge extra)
Dinner Omakase Course: from ¥15,400 or ¥22,000 (tax included, service charge extra)
Reservations
Counter seating only (approx. 7–9 seats)
Children under school age not permitted
Reservations accepted up to one month in advance
Strict policies on cancellations and changes in party size

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Rest at the Hotel After Lunch

After indulging in a luxurious meal at “Tempura Koizumi,” I returned to the hotel for check-in.
In the calm of my room, I allowed myself a short rest and caught up on a bit of work.

Even though daily tasks follow you when traveling, the quiet atmosphere of a hotel room often creates a surprisingly comfortable space to focus.

Once refreshed, I prepared for the evening ahead.
As dinnertime approached, I boarded a bus to the night’s destination—

Dinner at the Two-Star Kaiseki Restaurant “Kataori”

That evening’s destination was “Kataori,” one of Kanazawa’s most celebrated Michelin two-star kaiseki restaurants.
It stands quietly along the Sai River, blending harmoniously into the historic streetscape.

The modest façade, with just the two characters “片折” inscribed, left a deep impression.
Beyond that door awaited a chef’s refined sensibility and seasonal Japanese cuisine at its peak—a promise that naturally stirred anticipation.

For details of the dishes and highlights from the course, please see the blog article below.

2025.08.22

Kataori／Kanazawa・Namikimachi

Kataori

ADDRESS

3-36 Namikimachi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
Approx. 29 minutes on foot (2.3 km) from Hokutetsu Kanazawa Station; similar distance from JR Kanazawa Station

OPEN

Reservation only
Omakase course only, both lunch and dinner
Lunch service mainly on Wednesdays and Sundays
Dinner served in two seatings

AWARD

Michelin Two Stars
Tabelog Award Gold and numerous other distinctions

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After Kataori: A Nightcap at BAR “Noma”

Carrying the lingering impression of Kataori’s kaiseki, I took a short walk along the Sai River before heading by taxi to Katamachi’s hidden gem, the “Yakitori Yokocho” alley.

Amid the rows of glowing red lanterns, BAR “々 (Noma)” quietly hung its noren, waiting to be discovered.

Walking through the narrow alley, I opened the door, guided by a faint, warm glow.
Inside, rows of bottles and glasses stood in order against bare concrete walls, quietly welcoming me.

A minimalist space stripped of excess.
It was the perfect place to slowly savor the aftertaste of the evening, glass in hand, in a quiet, reflective mood.

This bar features a rotating lineup of bartenders.
Each visit offers a different atmosphere, making every “Noma” a one-night-only experience.

That night, I had two highballs.

The first was a soda mix with the craft gin “HACHIBAN,” winner of the IWSC 2023 Gold Award.
Its layered aromas of juniper, sansho pepper, and cinnamon unfolded, yet its mouthfeel was astonishingly light.
The bottle even bore a handwritten “Noma” logo by art director Satoshi Akiyama—a detail that showed the bar’s refined sense of style.

The second was “Hoshiko,” a spiced umeshu from Wakayama.
Hints of clove and cardamom lifted the plum’s sweetness, leaving a refreshing, elegant finish.
Not flashy, but quietly memorable—such was its charm.

That evening’s bartender was Momo, who is so passionate about spices that she once traveled to South India just to taste local meals.
She occasionally hosts pop-up South Indian “meals,” and even hearing her stories was exciting.
In the spirit of hospitality, she also shared “Himuro Manju,” a seasonal sweet bought for Himuro Day—a charming surprise.

It was an unexpected moment where season, people, and flavor intersected.
Noma proved to be a generous space that embraces such coincidences with ease.

BAR “Noma” (々)

ADDRESS

6-4 Kikuramachi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
Inside Yakitori Yokocho (Alley)
About 10 minutes by car from Kanazawa Station
About 1 km on foot from Nomachi Station

OPEN

Hours: 20:00 – 02:00 (until closing)
Closed: Irregular holidays — please check the latest updates on Instagram Stories before visiting
Reservations accepted via Instagram direct message

COMMENT

Credit cards accepted
Electronic money not accepted

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Closing the Night with a Classic Bowl

To end the first day of my journey, I chose to stop by “Chuka Soba-dokoro Manmi,” a long-standing shop in Sanwa Shopping Street.
Founded in 1970, this was my first visit.

The shop was packed, and I had to wait a while before taking a seat at the counter.
After selecting a chashumen from the ticket machine, even the wait at the red counter felt oddly comforting.

Finally, the bowl arrived—a quintessential chuka soba.
The clear broth carried the richness of local soy sauce, paired with slices of chashu that released savory depth with each bite.
Simple yet irresistible, it was the kind of bowl that compels you to finish every last drop.

Open until 1 a.m., it’s the kind of place locals must visit repeatedly.
Their popular take-home chashu looked so tempting that I made a mental note to try it next time.

Chuka Soba-dokoro Manmi

ADDRESS

2-9-29 Honmachi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
5–7 minutes on foot from Kanazawa Station East Exit
Just a few minutes’ walk from Hokutetsu Kanazawa Station
Located midway along Sanwa Shopping Street (landmarks nearby include Hotel Nikko Kanazawa)

OPEN

Hours: Monday–Saturday, 18:00 – 01:00 (open until 25:00)
Closed on Sundays and public holidays

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And so, the first day of this Michelin two-star journey in Kanazawa quietly came to a close—with a nostalgic bowl of ramen to end the night.

DAY 2 | Morning Sushi Feast at Omicho Market “Morimori Sushi”

On the second morning, I welcomed my wife—joining from this day—at the Tsuzumi-mon gate of Kanazawa Station.
With smiles at our reunion, our long-awaited trip together began. We walked a short distance to the lively Omicho Market.

For breakfast, we headed to “Morimori Sushi Omicho branch,” one of the market’s most popular conveyor-belt sushi spots.
Even at this hour, the counter was buzzing with customers, plates of sushi lining the belt in vibrant colors.

That morning, we enjoyed a lineup of nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), amaebi (sweet shrimp), gasu-ebi, shiro-ebi (white shrimp), madai (red sea bream), assorted aburi (seared fish), and crab miso soup.
Kanazawa’s local seafood specialties made for a highly satisfying breakfast.
The shiro-ebi gunkan and the charred aburi sushi, in particular, were deeply comforting and delicious in the early morning.

The lively bustle of the morning market paired with the satisfaction of sushi—our second day in Kanazawa began with the luxury of a “conveyor-belt sushi breakfast.”

Morimori Sushi Omicho Branch

ADDRESS

1F Omicho Ichiba-kan, 88 Aokusa-machi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
About 15 minutes on foot from Kanazawa Station East Exit
About 12–14 minutes on foot from Hokutetsu Kanazawa Station
1–3 minutes on foot from Musashigatsuji Bus Stop
No on-site parking (coin parking available nearby)

OPEN

Hours: 8:00 – around 16:30–17:00 (last entry 16:00, last order 16:20)
Open daily (no regular holidays)

CONTACT

Tel: +81-76-262-7477

AWARD

Selected for Tabelog “Top 100 Sushi Restaurants WEST 2021”

COMMENT

Cash only (credit cards and electronic payment not accepted)

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Chasing the Long-Awaited Nodoguro Aburi Bowl

After a light breakfast, we planned to have the much-anticipated Nodoguro Aburi Don (seared blackthroat seaperch rice bowl) at “Sushi Rekireki” in Omicho Market. However, on this very day, the shop happened to be closed.
Still determined, we made our way to Kanazawa Station to try the branch located inside the station building.

Fortunately, we were able to enjoy the nodoguro aburi don at the station branch.
The aroma of lightly seared nodoguro fat blended with onsen egg and condiments, coating the rice in a flavor that was nothing short of outstanding.

We also added three single pieces: mochi-gatsuo, yanagi-sawara, and gasu-ebi.
Each, recommended for the day, was exceptional in both ingredient quality and craftsmanship.

My wife opted for the “Chef’s Selection Nigiri (12 pieces).” Each piece was served carefully, one by one, making for a fulfilling morning sushi experience.

Sushi Rekireki Kanazawa Station Branch

ADDRESS

1-1 Kinoshinbo-cho, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
Located inside Kanazawa Hyakubangai “Anto” shopping complex
Directly connected to Kanazawa Station, just outside the ticket gates
Perfect for a quick stop during transit

OPEN

Hours: 11:00 – 22:00 (last order 21:30)
Open year-round (follows Hyakubangai’s schedule)

CONTACT

Tel: +81-76-254-5539 (reservations not accepted)

AWARD

Michelin Bib Gourmand
Selected for Tabelog “Top 100 Sushi Restaurants WEST 2021”
Sister restaurant of Michelin-listed Sushi Mitsukawa

COMMENT

Non-smoking
Barrier-free accessible

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Well-Fed, We Begin Kanazawa Sightseeing

With nodoguro aburi don and sushi fully satisfying our appetite, we set out to explore Kanazawa.

Our first stop was Oyama Shrine, dedicated to Maeda Toshiie, the founder of the Kaga domain, and his wife, Omatsu.
The first thing that caught our eyes was its unique gate, the “Shinmon,” built in 1875 with a rare fusion of Japanese, Chinese, and Western architectural styles.

The upper section features stained glass, casting different colors by day and night—an impressive sight. Though heavily influenced by Western architecture, the shrine grounds exude tranquility, dignity, and history.
Interestingly, the top of the gate once served as a lighthouse to oversee the sea toward Kanazawa, showing its diverse functions.

Within the grounds were gold-leaf-inspired monuments and lotus-themed modern art pieces, blending tradition with modernity in a strangely harmonious way.

The Modern “Shamusho” and a Charm for Good Fortune

Another highlight within the shrine grounds was the new Shamusho (amulet office), built in 2015. Its glass-walled, refined design resembled an art gallery.
Despite its modern style, it blended naturally with the surrounding greenery and historic architecture, standing with quiet dignity.

Inside, in addition to receiving goshuin (shrine stamps) and omamori (charms), there were digital displays introducing the history of Oyama Shrine—creating a calm but engaging space of learning and reflection.

That day, I chose a charm for financial fortune. Holding it in hand against the backdrop of fresh green through the glass windows, the moment itself felt quietly special.

Oyama Shrine

ADDRESS

11-1 Oyama-machi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-0918, Japan
About 5 minutes by taxi from JR Kanazawa Station
About 3 minutes on foot from “Minamimachi・Oyama Jinja” bus stop (Hokutetsu Bus)

OPEN

Shrine office & Goshuin reception: 9:00 – 17:00
Purification rituals: 9:30 – 15:30
Open year-round

AWARD

The shrine gate (Shinmon), built in 1875, is a designated Important Cultural Property
The inner garden is designated as a Prefectural Place of Scenic Beauty

COMMENT

Blessings: success in competition, balance of scholarship and martial arts, business prosperity, marital harmony, fertility, safe childbirth, protection from misfortune — blessings unique to a shrine dedicated to a samurai lord and his wife.
The stained-glass gate is especially stunning at dusk and after dark when illuminated, offering a magical atmosphere.
Conveniently located near Kenrokuen Garden and Omicho Market, making it easy to stop by during sightseeing.
For purification rituals, goshuin stamps, or formal prayer, please note the reception hours.

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From Oyama Shrine to the 21st Century Museum

After exploring the shrine grounds, we followed the slope behind the back gate toward Kanazawa Castle.
Walking through stone walls and greenery that recalled the prosperity of the Kaga domain, we continued on foot to the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art.

The museum’s lawns and glass architecture themselves felt like art.
The first work that caught our eyes was Olafur Eliasson’s “Color Activity House,” a structure of colorful acrylic panels.
Its hues shift with the time of day and weather, making every visit a unique experience.

Even without entering, the grounds featured public art pieces perfect for casual strolling.
In contrast to the historical Oyama Shrine, here we felt the sensitivity of Kanazawa’s present moment.

An Immersive Experience: “The Swimming Pool”

Among the museum’s most popular works is Leandro Erlich’s “The Swimming Pool.”
At first glance, it looks like a real pool, yet visitors can walk inside “underwater” without getting wet—a surreal installation.

This work now requires advance timed reservations.
Thanks to booking online in advance, we were able to enter right on time upon arrival.
Bathed in natural light from above, stepping into the shimmering blue world felt like entering a dream.

From the ground above, it truly appeared as though people were walking underwater. Depending on the vantage point, the impressions varied greatly—one of the charms of this unique piece.

Viewing Procedure & Tips for “The Swimming Pool”

Exploring Contemporary Art with All Senses

Beyond “The Swimming Pool,” the museum housed many other works that engaged the senses in surprising ways.

Abstract pieces that reflected light and color across entire walls,
sculptural objects that seemed to ask “What is this?”,
and installations softly glowing in silence—all invited not just “viewing,” but “feeling.”

Other highlights included a glass-case installation of colorful pipe-like forms, emphasizing harmony with the surrounding space.
Walking among them brought a sense of inner calm.

It felt like drifting between the everyday and the extraordinary.
A rich moment of appreciating the “space and silence” that art can offer.

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa

ADDRESS

1-2-1 Hirosaka, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-8509, Japan
About 10 minutes by bus from JR Kanazawa Station (get off at “Hirosaka / 21st Century Museum” stop)
A few minutes’ walk from Kenrokuen Garden and Korinbo — very convenient for sightseeing

OPEN

Exhibition Zone: 10:00 – 18:00 (until 20:00 on Fridays & Saturdays)
Exchange Zone (public spaces): 9:00 – 22:00
Closed: Mondays (or the following day if Monday is a national holiday), and New Year holidays

CONTACT

Tel: +81-76-220-2800

COMMENT

Admission
Exhibition Zone: Adults ¥450, free for high school students and younger
Special exhibitions: additional fees (varies by exhibition)
Exchange Zone (public indoor spaces): free of charge

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A Short Break After Art Strolling

From Oyama Shrine, through Kanazawa Castle, we made our way to the 21st Century Museum.
This time, we skipped Kenrokuen, focusing instead on art and architecture.

Inside the museum, beyond the famous “Swimming Pool,” we took time to appreciate a variety of contemporary artworks.
Experiencing them while feeling the light and breeze outdoors offered a refined glimpse into Kanazawa’s creative spirit.

Originally, we had planned to visit Kenrokuen afterward, but with the temperature soaring above 30°C, we decided not to push ourselves and returned to the hotel for a break.

In the cool comfort of our room, we hydrated, looked back at photos, and prepared outfits for the evening’s dinner.
Such “choosing not to do anything” time while traveling turned out to be a quiet luxury in itself.

Dinner at “Makinonci”

In the evening, we headed to “Makinonci,” a fully reservation-only restaurant located in a quiet residential area of Kanazawa.
From Kanazawa Station, we took a bus to the Moriyama stop, then walked from there.

However, we hadn’t anticipated the steep slope leading from Moriyama to the restaurant.
The uphill walk took quite a toll on us.
For future visitors, I highly recommend taking a taxi instead (we learned the hard way!).

Once we arrived, though, we were greeted by a warm, renovated traditional house.
The effort of climbing that slope only heightened our sense of anticipation for the meal ahead.

For the full details of the course meal and impressions of the dishes, please see the dedicated blog article here.

After a special dinner at Makinonci, we returned to the hotel by taxi.
The evening felt like being warmly welcomed into the chef’s own home.

There was even a delightful surprise—an encounter with a certain well-known guest, making the night all the more memorable.
It was the perfect conclusion to our second day.

Thus ended Day 2 of our Kanazawa journey.
A day filled with both culinary highlights and cultural discoveries.

2025.08.26

MAKINONCÎ / Kanazawa – Yamanoue-machi

MAKINONCÎ

ADDRESS

25-18 Yamanoue-machi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan

OPEN

Lunch: Sundays only (doors open 11:30, course starts 12:00)
Dinner: Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday (doors open 17:30, course starts 18:00)
Closed: Thursdays and Sunday dinner

AWARD

Michelin Guide Hokuriku 2021: Two Stars
Tabelog Award 2024: Bronze
Consistently selected for Tabelog’s Top 100 French Restaurants
Featured with high ratings in Gault & Millau Japan

COMMENT

Online reservations available via TableCheck, where guests can check availability, courses, and seating options (counter or private room)
Phone reservations also accepted: +81-50-3503-3318

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DAY 3 | Standing Sushi at Ikiiki Fish Market “Yusho”

On the third morning, after checking out of the hotel, we rented a car share and headed to Kanazawa Port.
Our destination was the popular “Standing Sushi Yusho,” located inside the Ikiiki Fish Market.

Supervised by Naonori Yamaguchi of Michelin two-star “Sushidokoro Mekumi,” this standing sushi bar has earned a reputation for offering authentic Edomae-style sushi in a casual setting.

We had reserved the most popular course, the “Nigiri Course” (¥5,500 incl. tax).
Time was limited to one hour. The set included nine pieces of sushi, miso soup, and tamagoyaki. Simple in appearance, yet each piece brimmed with seasonal flavors and craftsmanship.

The seafood featured was mainly sourced from Kanazawa Port, Noto, and Toyama.
This day’s lineup included aori-ika (bigfin reef squid), shiro-ebi, nama shirasu (raw whitebait), shiro gasu-ebi, Wajima ara, Noto maguro, kegani (hair crab), and unagi from Aichi—a true celebration of Hokuriku’s bounty.

A particularly memorable piece was the ara from Wajima Port.
Unlike the “kue” (longtooth grouper) called ara in Kyushu, this was the true standard Japanese ara (a type of sea bass in the grouper family).
Its moist white flesh carried a gentle depth of umami, leaving a lasting impression.

We also enjoyed female kegani (hair crab) from Kanazawa Port and a tamagoyaki infused with ama-ebi paste.
Rather than relying solely on freshness, each dish was crafted to let you taste the “story behind the ingredients.”

Toward the end, playful touches such as shiro gasu-ebi and toro-taku hand rolls appeared.
The course had rhythm and flow, and the quick pace of standing sushi made for an hour that flew by in bliss.

This kind of morning indulgence could only happen in a port town like Kanazawa.
It was the perfect energy boost for the latter half of the trip.

Tachigui Sushi Yusho

ADDRESS

52 Murouji-machi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
Inside Kanazawa Port Ikiiki Fish Market

OPEN

Hours: 10:00 – 15:00 (last entry 14:00)
Seating limited to 60 minutes per guest
Closed: Wednesdays (plus occasional irregular closures)

AWARD

Winner of the 1st DX Award – “Sustainable Seafood” Prize

COMMENT

Supervised by Chef Hisanori Yamaguchi, head chef of Michelin two-starred Sushidokoro Mekumi
Fresh fish sourced directly from local fishermen, especially Yosuke Nakata of Hinode Ooshiki in Noto, ensuring exceptional quality and freshness

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Souvenir Shopping at Omicho Market

After breakfast at the fish market, we returned the car share and headed back to Omicho Market.
Strolling among the busy stalls, we picked up a few souvenirs.
We skipped snacking this time, saving room for lunch.

Omicho Market

ADDRESS

88 Aokusa-machi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-0905, Japan
About 15 minutes on foot from JR Kanazawa Station
Right by the “Musashigatsuji / Omicho Market” bus stop (Hokutetsu Bus)

OPEN

Hours vary by shop, generally around 9:00 – 17:00
Some restaurants open early (e.g., 7:00 – 15:00)
Closed: irregular holidays (many shops close on Wednesdays)

COMMENT

Approximately 170 shops and stalls gather here, offering fresh seafood, produce, meat, dried foods, delicatessen items, and eateries.
Famous for kaisendon (seafood rice bowls) and sushi.
Market restaurants serve Hokuriku specialties such as Nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), Amaebi (sweet shrimp), Gasuebi, Shiroebi (white shrimp), and Kobako crab (female snow crab, seasonal).
Great for snacking and food hopping: popular items include croquettes, fried oysters, skewers, and fruit daifuku.
History: Established about 300 years ago during the Edo period under the Kaga Domain, the market has long been known as the “kitchen of Kanazawa.”

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Lunch at Two-Star “respiracion”

After shopping in Omicho Market, we walked to our lunch destination: the two-Michelin-starred modern Spanish restaurant “respiracion”.

It had been about six years since our last visit.
We included it in this trip without hesitation, eager to relive that unforgettable dining experience.

True to its name—meaning “breath” in Spanish—respiracion expresses the air of the land, the seasons, and the chef’s philosophy through each dish.
We stepped inside, excited to see how the flavors we remembered had evolved.

For details of the meal and memorable dishes, please see the dedicated blog article.

2025.08.28

respiración / Kanazawa, Bakuro-machi

respiración

ADDRESS

67 Bakuro-machi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
(Just 1 minute on foot from Omicho Market)

OPEN

Reservation only
Lunch: 12:00 start (entry from 11:30)
Dinner: 18:00 start (entry from 17:30)
Closed: 6 days per month, mainly Mondays (irregular closures apply)

AWARD

Set inside a beautifully renovated 140-year-old machiya townhouse, respiración offers a refined dining experience where Spanish culinary techniques meet the terroir of Hokuriku.
The name “respiración,” meaning “breath” in Spanish, reflects the philosophy of creating dishes that resonate with the rhythm of nature, the local climate, and the dialogue between chef and diner.
Here, every course feels like a quiet inhalation and exhalation — a moment to pause, savor, and connect deeply with both place and season.

COMMENT

Michelin Guide Hokuriku 2021 (Special Edition): Two Stars
Awarded the Michelin Green Star for sustainability
Tabelog Award Silver: 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025 (four consecutive years)
Selected for Tabelog Top 100 Spanish Restaurants 2024

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An Afternoon Stroll in Higashi Chaya District

After lunch, we walked leisurely to one of Kanazawa’s most iconic historic areas, the Higashi Chaya District.

Lined with lattice-fronted machiya townhouses along stone-paved streets, the district is usually bustling with tourists.
But on this day, perhaps due to a certain “prediction” that had been circulating, the number of overseas visitors was noticeably lower.
This gave us the rare chance to enjoy the townscape in a calmer atmosphere.

We wandered past shops selling handicrafts, traditional wagashi sweets, and quaint cafés.
Rather than stopping anywhere in particular, we simply enjoyed walking quietly through the charming streets.
It was an afternoon stroll that perfectly captured Kanazawa’s blend of elegance and simplicity.

A Break at “Issho,” a Hojicha Café

While enjoying the tranquil air of Higashi Chaya District, we stepped into a hidden gem: Issho, a café specializing in hojicha (roasted green tea).

After passing through the lattice door and taking a seat, we were first served a chilled glass of Kenjo Kaga Bocha (premium roasted stem tea).
Lightly sweet with a refreshing aroma, it worked perfectly as a welcome drink, easing us into relaxation.

Next came a guided hojicha tasting session, with three teas brewed carefully in front of us by the staff:

• Kenjo Kaga Bocha (light roast, crisp and refreshing)

• Kaga Hojicha (deep roast, mellow and rich)

• Seasonal July Tea “Kurasawa”
  — A special roasted tea using Taiwanese-style oolong processing, with fruity sweetness and a smoky aroma.

We compared the aromas and chose our favorite.
This time, we selected the limited-edition “Kurasawa.”
Its rising steam carried both a summery brightness and deep relaxation.

We paired the teas with two sweets of our choice:
・A fragrant walnut cake
・A seasonal wagashi called “Takishibuki” (a blue nerikiri sweet evoking the coolness of cascading water)
Each complemented the tea perfectly, with carefully chosen vessels that added to the experience.

At the end, a small extra serving of tea and sweets—an off-menu gesture—was quietly presented.
This gentle closing touch left us feeling both soothed and cared for.

Issho

ADDRESS

1-26-13 Higashiyama, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
From Kanazawa Station: Take a bus to “Hashiba-cho” stop, then 5 minutes on foot

OPEN

12:00 – 17:00 (last order 16:30)
Closed Mondays & Tuesdays (if Monday/Tuesday is a holiday, closed on Wednesday instead)

AWARD

Selected multiple times for Tabelog’s “Top 100 Cafés” and “Top 100 Sweets Shops”

COMMENT

A refined café specializing in roasted green tea (Hōjicha), Issho combines elements of a tearoom, gallery, and coworking space.
Guests can enjoy carefully brewed seasonal Hōjicha tastings paired with traditional Japanese sweets, all within a renovated machiya townhouse in the atmospheric Higashi Chaya District.
It is both a place for quiet reflection and a showcase of Kanazawa’s tea culture reimagined for the present day.

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Before leaving, we purchased some “Kurasawa” tea to bring home and as souvenirs.
With its lingering aroma in our hearts, we left the Higashi Chaya District behind.

Issho is the kind of place you’ll want to revisit every season, just to savor different varieties of hojicha in Kanazawa.

Maruhachi Seichajo Higashiyama Flagship Store

ADDRESS

1-26-13 Higashiyama, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
(Located along the main street of the Higashi Chaya District)

OPEN

12:00 – 17:00 (last order 16:30)
Closed Mondays & Tuesdays (if a national holiday falls on these days, closed the following Wednesday instead)

COMMENT

The flagship store of Maruhachi Seichajo, a long-established tea producer from Kanazawa.
Set in the historic Higashi Chaya District, the shop offers a refined space to savor Kanazawa’s renowned Kaga-bōcha (roasted stem tea), along with seasonal tea experiences and retail selections.
Perfect for combining sightseeing with a moment of authentic tea culture.

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Shopping in Higashi Chaya, Then Back to Kanazawa Station

After a calm tea break at “Issho,” we strolled through the Higashi Chaya District once more, this time browsing the shops.
We enjoyed picking out crafts, local foods, and specialty goods as souvenirs.

Each machiya-style shop had its own personality—whether selling pottery, handicrafts, or local delicacies—making it easy to pause at every corner.
This quiet time searching for a few favorites felt like the perfect way to conclude the trip.

After finishing our shopping, we took a bus back to Kanazawa Station.
As the bus approached the station, the sense of the trip’s end began to sink in, with a touch of nostalgia as we returned to the place we first arrived.

From there, we made one final stop before heading to the airport.

Oden at “Kuroyuri” Inside Kanazawa Station

Before boarding the limousine bus to Komatsu Airport, we stopped at “Kuroyuri,” an oden restaurant inside Kanazawa Station.

Wanting to savor just a little more of Kanazawa’s flavor, we ordered a few pieces of local-style oden.
It was a simple but warming choice to end the journey.

The daikon and wheat-gluten fu, steeped in broth, carried a gentle richness.
We skipped the alcohol this time, quietly enjoying only the pure taste of the dish.

While much of the trip had been filled with Michelin-starred splendor, closing with such humble comfort food felt uniquely fitting for Kanazawa.

Kuroyuri – Seasonal Dishes & Oden

ADDRESS

1-1 Kinoshinbo-cho, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
Inside Kanazawa Hyakubangai “Anto” shopping complex (directly connected to JR Kanazawa Station)

OPEN

11:00 – 21:30 (last order 21:00)
Open daily, year-round

AWARD

Selected for Tabelog Top 100 Izakaya 2021
Selected for Tabelog Top 100 Izakaya WEST 2024

COMMENT

Seating: 45 seats total (25 counter seats, 20 box seats)
Non-smoking throughout
A long-loved izakaya specializing in Kanazawa-style oden, popular with both travelers and locals for casual meals during sightseeing or business trips.
Reservations accepted on weekdays.
Note: Reservations are not available on weekends, public holidays, and during New Year holidays — early arrival recommended.

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Reflections After Three Days — Kanazawa’s Quiet Harmony of Food and Culture

Returning to Kanazawa after several years, I was reminded once again of its quiet, dignified beauty.

From the fusion of history and modernity at Oyama Shrine,
to the contemporary art seamlessly blending into daily life at the 21st Century Museum,
Kanazawa revealed its many layers of sophistication.

Walking slowly through the latticed streets of Higashi Chaya District,
I felt the living presence of both tradition and community.

But at the heart of this trip was, of course, the food.
The seafood of Kanazawa Port, Noto, and Toyama,
and the dishes shaped by the region’s terroir,
all spoke to the meaning of eating “here and now.”

Above all, the Michelin two-starred restaurants we visited offered experiences that could only exist in Kanazawa, in that season.
Each course resonated quietly with the city’s air and the passage of time.
That sense of inevitability came through naturally in every dish.

Kanazawa is a city where brilliance and simplicity, stillness and abundance, coexist without conflict.
Each visit reveals a new depth, a new face of the city.

I left with the thought: what kind of Kanazawa will I meet next, in another season?
With that anticipation, this journey quietly came to an end.

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