CONTENTS
- Prologue
- Setting off from Hakata Station
- Arrival in Shimonoseki
- By taxi to the first stop
- To Karato Market
- Waiting for doors to open at Karato Market’s “Takesho”
- The sushi I chose today
- Leaving the market
- Onward to Tsuwano
- Arriving in Tsuwano
- Over the Takatsu River to our destination
- Arrival at Mikadoya
- Into central Tsuwano
- Wagashi Shop Sanshōdō — Tsuwano Main Store
- Taikodani Inari Shrine
- A chance encounter with the SL Yamaguchi
- Ruriko-ji Five-Story Pagoda
- Retro Souvenir Shop Tatsumiya
- Back in Shimonoseki
- Closing the day
- Epilogue
Prologue
This journey is a one-day quest for good food.
In Shimonoseki I’ll tuck into fresh sushi at the market; in Tsuwano I’ll encounter ayu (sweetfish) from its clear streams; and to close, I plan to savor a set course that draws on Western techniques.
From gifts of the sea to the bounty of the river—and, in a historic setting, a contemporary plate.
Flavors you can only meet in their home turf overlap with the culture and scenery behind them—what memories will they leave?
A small trip that traces the charms of cuisine and townscapes begins now.
With my heart beating a little faster for what tastes await, I set off.
I hope this helps as a reference for your own travels.
Setting off from Hakata Station
This trip starts at Hakata Station, the gateway to Kyushu.
I pass through the central ticket gates and head for the Shinkansen platforms. The concourse is already lively in the morning, footfalls of business travelers and holidaymakers crossing paths.
I’m boarding the Kodama. Compared with the Nozomi or Sakura, it runs at an unhurried pace, stopping at each station so you can really enjoy the scenery from the window.
On the platform, the departure board lines up destinations and times. Gazing at the letters that announce the start of the journey, I feel my mindset gently shift.
My destination is Shimonoseki. Looking forward to the air of the port town and the encounters with food and people awaiting there, I can’t wait for the train doors to open.
Arrival in Shimonoseki
About 40 minutes rocked by the Shinkansen from Hakata. The Kodama glides along at a relaxed pace and arrives at Shin-Shimonoseki Station.
Stepping onto the platform, a wide blue sky spreads beyond the large glass windows to greet me. The realization seeps in that I’ve come to the city that links the Seto Inland Sea and the Sea of Japan.
Inside the station are motifs typical of Yamaguchi, like fugu (pufferfish) and “Manpuku no Tabi,” welcoming me with a sense of local culture the moment I arrive. There’s the brightness of a tourist gateway and, at the same time, a familiar warmth.
From here, it’s time to head into Shimonoseki proper—a city that shows many faces: a port town, a historical stage, and a capital of cuisine. I begin to walk through places that offer all these expressions.
By taxi to the first stop
I hop into a taxi waiting at the station rotary and set off for central Shimonoseki.
Out the window I see the sea mirroring the blue sky, the buildings of Karato Market, and the Kanmon Bridge—reminders that this city has grown with its harbor.
The driver chats amiably and shares tips: “Your next stop, Tsuwano, is a beautiful castle town often called a ‘Little Kyoto.’” He mentions the vivid red Sekishu roof tiles, the koi swimming in the moat along Tonō-machi Street, and sites like Mori Ōgai’s birthplace and Taikodani Inari Shrine. As I listen to the town’s charms, my anticipation for the next destination only grows.
Even in transit, the joy of travel widens—that’s what this moment makes me feel.
To Karato Market
The taxi brings me to Karato Market, one of Shimonoseki’s signature sights.
The market stands right by the harbor facing the Kanmon Straits and bustles with people from early morning.
Outside the building, rows of live tanks hold fish and fugu you can watch swimming—purely a port-town scene. With the scent of the sea on the breeze, I’m reminded once more that I’ve arrived in Shimonoseki.
Inside, just-landed seafood is laid out with lively shouts, drawing every gaze. Everyday life for locals and the thrill of visitors intersect here, creating a unique atmosphere. From this point, the trip’s full-fledged culinary experiences begin.
Waiting for doors to open at Karato Market’s “Takesho”
With a little time before meeting a friend, I head to the popular Karato Market stall “Takesho.”
It’s 8:45 a.m. They open at 9:30, but several groups are already in line—locals and tourists alike, all queuing with expectant expressions.
The whole market hums with energy; in the chorus of spirited voices and chatter, even the time spent waiting in line somehow feels like part of the journey.
Takesho is known for sushi and kaisendon made with ultra-fresh toppings. The moments before tasting them felt like a prelude to Shimonoseki’s culinary experiences.
The menu handed out while we waited listed an array of neta: fatty tuna (ōtoro and chūtoro), aburi nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch) unique to Shimonoseki, fugu milt, wild fugu, and more. Prices per piece were clear, adding to the fun of choosing.
Orders are called in turn to mics on the left and right. Guidance is set up so even first-timers won’t get confused—the market’s immediacy is preserved while the flow stays smooth.
In the showcases, sushi keeps being set out—lustrous lean tuna, gleaming silver-skinned fish, and mounds of uni and ikura shining right before your eyes. Just watching is appetite-sparking, and the opening moment feels ever more exciting.
The sushi I chose today
After loading my tray with favorites and paying, I head straight to the second-floor dining area.
There’s a fee of ¥300 per adult per hour, but the appeal is settling into a table and eating at ease.
With the market’s bustle below, sushi eaten in this spacious area tastes special. Standing at a counter in the lively fray is fun and very “market,” but at a table you can enjoy conversation and savor each bite slowly.
Shimonoseki sushi with a lingering hint of the sea breeze—each piece held the very breath of this port town.
Today’s picks: uni, ōtoro, toro-taku, aburi nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), horse mackerel, sea bream, spear squid, fugu milt, amberjack belly, and jumbo fried oysters. I added miso soup with fugu bones on the side.
Every topping had real heft, and with each chew the umami of the seafood came through straight and clear.
Standouts were the uni and the milt: the uni melted into rich sweetness, while the milt was thick and creamy, leaving a quiet, dissolving finish.
The jumbo fried oysters captured the market’s signature boldness: the toasty batter and juicy oyster made each one fully satisfying.
The miso soup with fugu bones was suffused with savory stock, warming me through—a fitting finale to a market breakfast.
- ADDRESS
5-50 Karato-cho, Shimonoseki, Yamaguchi — inside Karato Market
- OPEN
Saturday: 9:30 – 15:00
Sundays & Public Holidays: 7:00 – 15:00 (*ends when the sushi sells out)
Closed: Monday–Friday (open on public holidays)
- COMMENT
- Queues & ordering
Especially crowded on weekends and holidays: long lines can form before opening. For example, there are reports that “by 8:45 the line had already extended outside.”
Turnover is relatively quick: you can choose from the menu while waiting, and the style of selecting already-made sushi from the showcase allows for smooth ordering.
How to order: microphones are set up in front of the showcase; place your order there → pay at the counter behind.
Condiments: soy sauce, wasabi, and disposable chopsticks are each ¥10 (charged).
Price example: “10 pieces of sushi for ¥2,350; adding soy sauce, wasabi, and chopsticks brings the total to ¥2,380,” a level often noted as very reasonable.
Leaving the market
Before I know it, it’s time to meet up.
I’d been so absorbed in the sushi that time flew.
I pop the last piece into my mouth, finish the miso soup, hurriedly clear the tray, and head outside.
Drawn by the market’s energy even as I leave, I get into my friend’s car and we drive to the next stop.
Onward to Tsuwano
Breakfast at Karato Market done, we head straight for Tsuwano in my friend’s car.
Past the expressway the scenery turns mountainous, with red-tiled roofs and green terraced rice fields coloring the view.
From a Seto Inland Sea port to a San’in “Little Kyoto”—one of the charms of Yamaguchi and Shimane is how landscapes can change so much in just a few hours of driving.
Under a blue sky, mountain ridgelines stand crisp while sunlit rural vistas roll on. As Tsuwano draws nearer, my expectations rise naturally for the culture and food we’re about to meet.
Arriving in Tsuwano
Roughly two hours by car from Shimonoseki. As the road shifts from expressway to mountain route, the window view grows greener, transforming into tranquil countryside dotted with paddies and red-tiled homes.
Soon we follow a riverside road and cross a bridge—the town of Tsuwano, called the “Little Kyoto of the San’in,” appears. Encircled by mountains and threaded with a clear stream, its quiet streets seem to ease away the fatigue of a long drive.
White-plastered buildings and the red of Sekishu tiles weave a landscape that feels nostalgic even on a first visit. In just two hours from the port town of Shimonoseki, this region carries you into a different world—that’s part of its allure.
Over the Takatsu River to our destination
At the town’s entrance, the Takatsu River comes into view—its waters run pure.
Surrounded by rich nature, this river has supported life in Tsuwano since long ago.
Crossing the bridge, we finally arrive.
The quiet of a mountain town and the murmur of water blend, and I feel the air of this place settle gently into me.
Arrival at Mikadoya
Crossing the Takatsu River and entering the town center, we spot Mikadoya, its wooden façade warm and calm.
The entrance hung with a blue noren holds a dignified air, quietly welcoming travelers.
In the side tank, ayu swim—like a symbol of Tsuwano’s clear streams and its food culture.
Thinking of the ayu dishes handed down here for generations, my heart naturally quickens.
I’ll introduce the actual dishes in a separate post.
- ADDRESS
221-2 Nichihara, Tsuwano-machi, Kanoashi-gun, Shimane Prefecture
15–19 minutes on foot (about 1.5 km) from Nichihara Station (JR Yamaguchi Line), or about 3 minutes by car.
From Karato Market to Mikadoya: about 2 hours–2 hours 30 minutes by car.
- OPEN
Lunch: 11:30–13:00 (last entry)
Dinner: 17:00–19:00 (last entry)
Closed Mondays ※ May be closed August 14–16.
- CONTACT
0856-74-0341
- AWARD
Tabelog Award
Continuous Silver/Bronze recipient from 2017 to 2025
2025: Silver
2024: Bronze
Tabelog “Top 100 Japanese Restaurants – WEST”
Selected in 2021 and 2025
Gault & Millau (Goût & Millau)
Listed with a score of 16/20
Media
Third-generation chef Ichirō Yamane appeared on TBS’s “Jounetsu Tairiku,” introduced as “Japan’s best ayu (sweetfish) chef.”
Into central Tsuwano
Leaving Mikadoya, we drive deeper into town.
Beyond the mountain pass, a red train runs through the green, willows sway along the riverbank, and it feels as though time flows more slowly here.
Soon we reach the area around Tsuwano Station, where the presence of the SL remains.
White-plastered buildings and red Sekishu tiles line the streets—truly a view worthy of the name “Little Kyoto of the San’in.”
A small castle town cradled by mountains and river—its calm atmosphere naturally leads visitors into the afterglow of travel.
Wagashi Shop Sanshōdō — Tsuwano Main Store
In Tsuwano we stopped by the long-established wagashi shop Sanshōdō.
We bought their specialty Genji-maki and the charmingly shaped monaka Koi no Sato.
Genji-maki wraps bean paste in a fluffy cake—simple, with sweetness you won’t tire of.
Koi no Sato, meanwhile, sets tender bean paste inside well-kneaded yokan, its sweetness restrained yet well-defined—a bite that conveys the artisans’ skill and sincerity.
At the shopfront, the “Tsuwano Gelato” also caught my eye—made with Iwami milk and local matcha and fruits. It was striking to see the shop engage local ingredients in a way different from wagashi.
Next time I’d like to try it in their café space—such a charming store.
- ADDRESS
Morimura Ha 19-5, Tsuwano-machi, Kanoashi-gun, Shimane 699-5604, Japan
ACCESS
About 15–20 minutes on foot (approx. 1.1 km) from Tsuwano Station on the JR Yamaguchi Line. By bus, get off at the “Mori” stop (right nearby). Parking available (10 standard cars; large buses by arrangement).
- OPEN
8:00–18:00 (or from 9:00), open year-round
- CONTACT
0856-72-0174
- COMMENT
- Bench seating is available inside, and all seats are non-smoking. The calm atmosphere makes it suitable for takeout or a short rest.
Taikodani Inari Shrine
Taikodani Inari Shrine sits on a hilltop watching over Tsuwano. Said to have been founded in the Kansei era by the Tsuwano-domain lords, the Kamei family, to pray for the castle town’s prosperity, it is counted among Japan’s five great Inari shrines.
The approach is lined with a thousand donated torii. The procession of vermilion calls to mind Fushimi Inari in Kyoto—step by step, the world of the everyday seems to fall away.
At the main hall, a grand shimenawa rope hangs over the worship hall and keen-eyed fox statues greet you. Below spreads the townscape of red roofs and the Takatsu River—this commanding view is one of the shrine’s special charms.
Said to bring blessings for business prosperity and good fortune, it draws worshippers from all over Japan, not only locals.
The contrast of brilliant vermilion buildings and deep green mountains is beautiful—I felt it’s a must when visiting Tsuwano.
- ADDRESS
409 Ushiroda, Tsuwano-machi, Kanoashi-gun, Shimane 699-5605
(About 20 minutes on foot from JR Tsuwano Station, or about 5 minutes by car. The shrine sits on a hill overlooking Tsuwano.)
- OPEN
Open for worship all day (office/reception hours roughly 8:30–16:30)
Note: Amulets and goshuin (seal stamps) are available only during office hours.
- COMMENT
- Enshrined deities
Ukanomitama-no-Kami
Izanami-no-Mikoto
Founded
An’ei 2 (1773), established by Tsuwano domain lord Kamei Norisada.
A chance encounter with the SL Yamaguchi
On the way back from the shrine, we happened to catch the SL Yamaguchi in operation.
Its whistle echoing through the mountains, white steam billowing as it crossed a red iron bridge—like a scene from a film.
Amid people raising their cameras, we saw it off in admiration.
In Tsuwano’s nature and historic townscape, the SL feels right at home, making for a perfect closing scene to the day. /p>
- OPEN
SL Yamaguchi timetable at Tsuwano Station
Inbound (Shin-Yamaguchi → Tsuwano)
Arrives at Tsuwano Station: scheduled 13:07
Outbound (Tsuwano → Shin-Yamaguchi)
Departs Tsuwano Station: a 16:12 service is available
- COMMENT
- JR Yamaguchi Line: Shin-Yamaguchi Station ⇄ Tsuwano Station (approx. 62.9 km one way)
Travel time:
About 2 hours (includes brief stops—e.g., Niho Station, Shinome Station—for photo breaks)
Operating days:
Mainly weekends and public holidays from spring through autumn (additional weekday runs during peak seasons)
*In winter (around January–February), many services are suspended.
Ruriko-ji Five-Story Pagoda
On the way back from Tsuwano to Shimonoseki, we pause in Yamaguchi City to visit Ruriko-ji.
Counted among Japan’s three most beautiful pagodas, its five-story tower—a National Treasure built in the Muromachi period—stands magnificent against the dark mountain and green pond garden.
Strolling the quiet garden and looking up at the tower, it’s as if the hustle of travel slips away.
In contrast to Tsuwano’s lively streets and the SL’s whistle, time seems gentle here—an easing calm for the final leg of the trip.
- ADDRESS
7-1 Kōzan-chō, Yamaguchi-shi, Yamaguchi 753-0081 (inside Kōzan Park)
ACCESS
About 10 minutes by bus from JR Yamaguchi Station; get off at “Kōzan Park-mae” (Kōzan Kōen-mae), right by the stop.
By car: about 15 minutes from Yamaguchi IC (parking available).
- OPEN
Temple grounds: free admission
Worship hours: open 24 hours (night illumination until around 22:00)
Nearby: Kōzan Park, Chinryūtei, Nakahara Chūya Memorial Museum (all within walking distance)
- AWARD
National Treasure: designated in 1952. Also counted among Japan’s “three most beautiful pagodas.”
- COMMENT
- One of Japan’s finest pagodas
Celebrated for its harmonious beauty that fuses multiple architectural styles; regarded as one of the “Three Great Pagodas of Japan” (alongside Hōryū-ji and Daigo-ji).
In step with the seasons
Spring: cherry blossoms with the pagoda
Summer: striking against fresh greenery
Autumn: maple leaves with night illumination
Winter: a dreamy scene under snow
Night illumination
Lights are on from sunset until around 22:00—an atmospheric and popular photo spot.
Retro Souvenir Shop Tatsumiya
Signs read “Fujicolor” and “Telephone Cards,” the patina of another era.
Boards for Yamaguchi specialties like uirō and Shitatsuzumi catch the eye, and an ice-cream cone statue brightens the storefront.
It’s the sort of place you want to drop into at the end of a trip—nostalgic and warm.
A landmark that gently welcomes worshippers and travelers alike.
Back in Shimonoseki
From Ruriko-ji we return toward Shimonoseki, watching green mountains roll past the window.
In contrast to the morning’s market bustle, the city at dusk is calm, enfolding the journey’s final hours.
Our last stop is Restaurant Takatsu on a hilltop.
Housed in a former bank from the early Shōwa era, the renovated restaurant retains its stately stonework and red brick—an atmosphere steeped in history, perfect for concluding the trip.
Details of the dishes and experiences appear in a separate post.
- ADDRESS
13-7 Misakinocho, Shimonoseki, Yamaguchi
- OPEN
Weekdays: dinner only / Sat–Sun: lunch + dinner
Closed: Wednesday
- AWARD
Tabelog Award 2025: Bronze
Tabelog “Top 100 French — WEST”: selected multiple years (e.g., 2023, 2025)
Gault & Millau: listed, score 15/20
Michelin Guide (digital edition): previously featured
- COMMENT
- Reservations only (advance booking required)
Counter-focused, about 8 seats, non-smoking
Closing the day
At night in Shimonoseki, I walk slowly to the station while gazing at the Kaikyō Yume Tower lit up against the sky.
Unlike the lively daytime, the seaside breeze is cool and quiet—just right for lingering in the aftertaste of the journey.
- ADDRESS
Arcaport 1-1, Shimonoseki, Yamaguchi 750-0036, Japan
ACCESS
About 7 minutes by bus from JR Shimonoseki Station; get off at “Arcaport,” right by the stop.
By car: about 15 minutes from Shimonoseki IC (parking available; shared with Kaikyokan Aquarium and Karato Market).
- OPEN
Hours: 10:00–21:30 (last entry 21:00)
Closed: irregular days several times a year for facility maintenance
- COMMENT
- Admission:
Adults ¥600
Elementary & junior high school students ¥300
Preschoolers free
Opened in 1996; a 153 m observation tower
Adjacent to Kaikyō Messe Shimonoseki (International Trade Building)
The observatory is at 143 m, offering a full 360° panorama
And then I arrive at Shimonoseki Station.
From the morning dash to Tsuwano—Karato Market, Mikadoya, Taikodani Inari Shrine, the SL, and more—I head home while looking back on a day packed with experiences.
Epilogue
Fresh sushi at the market in the morning; ayu dishes in a mountain town; a venerable wagashi shop; a shrine lined with vermilion torii; and, at night, a course meal shaped by Western techniques.
Within a single day, the blessings and cultures of sea, river, and mountain layered together to draw a rich story.
Even centered on gastronomy, touching the climate and human endeavor behind each plate deepened the journey.
Shimonoseki and Tsuwano—two different places—resonated with each other and left time that lingers in the heart.
When I visit again, new encounters will surely await alongside the food of these towns.
I hope this serves as a reference for your trip.
