CONTENTS
Prologue
Just about an hour’s drive from Fukuoka City.
Passing through the road where the blue sea and green mountains intersect, the town of Karatsu gradually appears.
On this day, it was a short day trip centered on two culinary experiences—traditional Japanese cuisine and innovative Chinese dining.
By encountering the landscapes and people through food, I hoped to gain a deeper sense of Karatsu as a place.
Since it’s a destination that can be reached so easily, I hope this serves as a useful guide for your own travels.
The Drive from Fukuoka to Karatsu
Leaving Fukuoka City and heading toward Karatsu.
Once past the city, deep green mountains and a vast sky spread across the view. Even the sunlight filtering onto my hands on the steering wheel felt somehow softer.
Soon the sea comes into view, and the scenery suddenly opens up. Shades of translucent blue stretch endlessly, blending with the green of the mountains. Opening the window slightly, the salty breeze drifts in, reminding me that Karatsu is near.
From the road on the hillside, you can overlook the inlets and the townscape below—the drive itself becomes part of the journey’s delight.
It wasn’t just about reaching the destination, but about the shifting scenery along the way—that was the true beginning of the trip to Karatsu.
Lunch at “Amigen” by the Tamashima River
Driving along the Tamashima River after passing through Karatsu, the restaurant “Amigen” appears, embraced by the murmur of the river and the greenery of the mountains.
The wooden building, with its tiled roof and lattice windows, has stood since the Tenpō era, blending serenely into the riverside landscape.
From the bridge, gazing at the river’s surface, you hear the sound of flowing water and birdsong, a reminder of the richness of the land. Taking in such a timeless landscape, I stepped through the restaurant’s noren curtain.
Lunch was served in a calm tatami room.
Amigen is an established restaurant known for river fish and wild plants, and once again, dishes reflecting Karatsu’s natural bounty were laid out before us. The flavors were deeply nourishing, evoking a sense of time slowing down.
I will introduce the details of the dishes in a separate article.
- ADDRESS
1058-2 Gotanda, Hamatamachi, Karatsu, Saga Prefecture
Approx. 5–7 minutes by taxi from JR Chikuhi Line Hamasaki Station
Approx. 40–45 minutes on foot
Approx. 5 minutes by car from Nishi-Kyushu Expressway Hamatama IC; parking available (free, 20–30 cars)
- OPEN
OPEN
Regular hours: 11:00–21:00
Closed
Every Tuesday (open on national holidays in some cases)
- CONTACT
0955-56-6926
- AWARD
Michelin
2014: Two Stars
2019: One Star
Gault & Millau
2023–2025: Listed consecutively (15.5 points / 3 toques)
Tabelog
2020–2025: Bronze Award
2025: Top 100 Japanese Restaurants (West)
- COMMENT
- A long-established restaurant founded in the Edo period, specializing in freshwater fish and wild herb cuisine, served on Karatsu ware, with private rooms and hospitality befitting a venerable establishment.
Hamamachi’s Local Sweet “Ito Keiran”
After lunch, recommended by the proprietress of Amigen, I stopped by “Ito Keiran” in Hamamachi.
This long-standing shop has been around for over 400 years since the Edo period, still preserving its old townhouse-style façade.
Their signature sweet, “Keiran,” is a simple confection made by wrapping sweet bean paste in a thin rice-flour skin and steaming it. Small in size yet fluffy in texture, its gentle sweetness fills the mouth. Long cherished for celebrations and everyday snacks alike, it felt like tasting the living memory of the region.
Inside, a steady stream of customers came to buy wagashi, creating a lively yet warm atmosphere. It felt like a must-visit stop when coming to Karatsu.
- ADDRESS
943 Hamasaki, Hamatamachi, Karatsu City, Saga Prefecture
Access
Approx. 5 minutes on foot from JR Chikuhi Line "Hamasaki Station"
Parking: about 6 standard cars, 2 buses
- OPEN
Open year-round, 8:00–20:00
- AWARD
“Yobuko Squid Yōkan” — Winner of the 2016 Japan Gift Award, Prefectural Prize
- COMMENT
- The famous confection Keiran, with origins linked to an episode involving Toyotomi Hideyoshi, carrying on over 400 years of history.
A Rest at Niji-no-Matsubara
I also stopped at Karatsu’s iconic scenic spot, “Niji-no-Matsubara.” The endless pine forest stretches along both sides of the road, and even from the car window, the view is overwhelming. Sunlight filtered by the trees creates a pleasant shade, while the sound of the pines swaying in the wind lingers in the ears.
In the middle of the forest, I paused at the famous bus café “Karatsu Burger.” I ordered the Egg Burger—hot patties topped with a soft-boiled egg and sauce, combined with the crisp texture of lettuce. Simple yet satisfying. Paired with freshly brewed iced coffee, it was the perfect break in the shade of the pines.
Since dinner was planned at a Chinese restaurant later, I kept it light. Niji-no-Matsubara, both a tourist attraction and part of local daily life, proved to be the perfect spot to pause mid-journey.
- ADDRESS
1945-1 Hamasaki, Hamatamachi, Karatsu City, Saga Prefecture
(Landmark: red bus inside Niji-no-Matsubara Pine Grove)
Access
Approx. 20 minutes on foot from JR Chikuhi Line Higashi-Karatsu Station
Right by the “Seaside-mae” bus stop from Karatsu Ōteguchi Bus Center
By car: about 40 minutes from Taku IC on the Nagasaki Expressway; parking available
- OPEN
Hours: 10:00–20:00
(Open year-round, may close temporarily due to weather, etc.)
- AWARD
Selected multiple times (2017–2024) for Tabelog’s “Top 100 Burgers in Japan”
- COMMENT
- Founded in 1961 (over 50 years of history), a leading local specialty burger shop.
Signature items include the Special Burger (¥660) and Hamburger (¥420).
Karatsu Castle
In the afternoon, I visited Karatsu Castle.
On this day, temperatures rose close to 40°C, making climbing the stone steps exhausting. That’s when I used the “Karatsu Castle Elevator,” which ascends diagonally. The slow glide up the slope was a fresh experience, almost like a small amusement ride.
At the top of the castle grounds, Karatsu Bay stretched out below, with the blue sky and sea shining brilliantly. The refreshing view made me momentarily forget the scorching heat.
From here, you can see the townscape and the pine forest all at once, reaffirming the richness of the region.
- ADDRESS
8-1 Higashi-Jōnai, Karatsu City, Saga Prefecture
Access
Approx. 20 minutes on foot from JR Karatsu Station
Approx. 5 minutes on foot from “Higashi-Jōnai” bus stop (Karatsu Ōteguchi Bus Center → city bus)
By car: about 40 minutes from Taku IC on the Nagasaki Expressway, about 15 minutes from Hamatama IC
Parking available (paid)
- OPEN
OPEN
Castle Tower (Historical Museum): 9:00–17:00 (last entry 16:40)
Elevator operating hours: 8:30–17:00
Closed
December 29–31
- COMMENT
- Admission Fees
Adults: ¥510
Elementary & junior high school students: ¥250
Karatsu Castle Sightseeing Elevator
Round-trip fare: Adults ¥100, Children (elementary school and under) ¥50
*Separate from the Castle Tower admission fee.
A Break at “Seaside Karatsu” Spa Before Dinner
In the evening, I visited the panoramic bath in the west wing of “Hotel & Resorts Karatsu (Seaside Karatsu).”
With the vast Karatsu Bay right in front, soaking in the bath while gazing at the horizon, the sea breeze slowly melted away all the fatigue. For a body overheated by the blazing summer, the open-air bath overlooking the sea was pure bliss.
At the day-use spa, complimentary cold water and ice cream were also offered—a small but welcome touch. That little treat after a refreshing bath made me feel even more revitalized.
Feeling refreshed and ready, I headed to “Chuka Ōshige” for dinner.
- ADDRESS
4-182 Higashi-Karatsu, Karatsu City, Saga Prefecture (West Wing of Karatsu Seaside Hotel)
- OPEN
9:00–22:00 (last admission)
- COMMENT
- Adults: approx. ¥1,800 on weekdays, approx. ¥2,000 on weekends and holidays
Features open-air baths, sauna, and relaxation spaces.
Dinner at “Chuka Ōshige”
At dusk, I arrived at “Chuka Ōshige,” a charming restaurant housed in a renovated townhouse.
Passing through the black-walled alley, the greenery of the garden and the quiet air invited me into another world.
Seated at the counter, the course began—a creative Chinese menu skillfully incorporating Karatsu’s seasonal ingredients.
Each dish reflected both the chef’s creativity and the local bounty, making it the perfect conclusion to the day’s journey.
I will introduce the details of the dishes in another article.
- ADDRESS
552-5 Bōzu-machi, Karatsu City, Saga Prefecture (Detached building)
Access
Approx. 8–10 minutes on foot from JR Karatsu Station (Navitime: about 9 minutes, 642 m)
From Showa Bus “Karatsu-gō,” the nearest stop is Ōteguchi Karatsu Bus Center, about 7 minutes on foot
- OPEN
OPEN
18:00–21:00 (Dinner only)
Closed irregularly
Lunch may be available upon request, depending on reservation
Reservation required
- COMMENT
- A detached building behind a main house designated as an Important Cultural Property, renovated into an intimate dining space.
Epilogue
Lunch by the Tamashima River at a historic Japanese restaurant.
The local confection introduced by the proprietress.
A drive through the pine forest, the castle town view, and a moment of relaxation in a seaside spa.
Finally, dinner at “Chuka Ōshige.”
Though Karatsu is within an hour’s drive from Fukuoka City, as this day unfolded, both its food and scenery could be thoroughly enjoyed.
Even in such a short stay, it became a journey that let me rediscover the richness of Karatsu. I hope this will serve as a helpful reference when planning your own trip.
- TAGS
