About SMAAK by Jacob Jan Boerma

Concept

SMAAK marks the first venture into Asia by renowned Dutch chef Jacob Jan Boerma, whose former restaurant De Leestmaintained three Michelin stars for years. Here in Yokohama, he introduces a refined and intellectual style of modern cuisine that fuses Japan’s traditional food culture and fermentation techniques with both European and Asian cooking methods—centered on the intricate layering of “acidity” and “umami.”

With a deep respect for ingredients, every plate is meticulously crafted to balance aroma, temperature, and texture. The space, inspired by Scandinavian simplicity and warmth, is perched on the 46th floor with sweeping views of Yokohama Bay—an atmosphere that gently nourishes the senses.

Despite its first-class techniques, ingredients, and composition, SMAAK never feels ostentatious. Instead, it offers a quietly resonant culinary memory. This is a new gastronomic landmark in Yokohama—an invitation to experience a world of subtle brilliance.

Chef Jacob Jan Boerma

At the helm of SMAAK’s vision is Jacob Jan Boerma, the celebrated chef behind the former three-Michelin-starred De Leest in the Netherlands. He is widely acclaimed for his delicate use of acidity and masterful layering of flavors.

Drawing on his experiences across Europe, including Scandinavia and Spain, Boerma skillfully incorporates Asian spices and fermentation culture into his culinary language. His commitment to evolving “what is considered best” is etched into each dish.

Rooted in Dutch culinary traditions, SMAAK is the embodiment of Boerma’s philosophy—his flagship in Asia, where innovation and heritage converge.

Head Chef Rob Nolle

Day-to-day operations at SMAAK are led by Head Chef Rob Nolle, a fellow Dutch native chosen by Boerma to carry out the restaurant’s culinary philosophy. With Boerma’s trust, Chef Nolle guides the kitchen, ensuring that each dish reflects the creative essence and style of SMAAK.

Prelude to Dining

Exterior & Entrance

Located on the 46th floor of Yokohama’s “Kitanaka Knot,” SMAAK’s entrance is an escape into the extraordinary.

Guests ascend directly via a private elevator, evoking the quiet anticipation of entering a sky-high sanctuary. Beyond the doors lies a space filled with natural wood tones and expansive glass windows showcasing the Yokohama Bay. The serene, open ambiance signals the beginning of something special.

This is a luxurious yet unpretentious space—where Nordic tranquility and contemporary elegance welcome each guest with understated grace.

Dining Space

The dining room offers panoramic views of the bay and city below, creating a sense of stillness and expanse.

Natural woods and soft hues create a warm, modern setting. By day, sunlight floods the space. By night, the glittering cityscape, including sights like the Cosmo World Ferris wheel, becomes part of the experience.

Rather than ornate décor, the restaurant’s minimalist aesthetic lets the food and scenery take center stage. It’s a place where each detail—from the composition of the dish to the room’s “emptiness”—is intentional, leaving a deep, lasting impression.

Menu Presentation

For lunch, I selected the “Eindhoven” course from three available options.

Comprising four plates, the printed menu quietly lists only the ingredients—no descriptions. This silence amplifies the sense of anticipation, inviting diners to engage with each dish as it unfolds.

The meal began not with flavors, but with stillness and space—a subtle prelude to what was to come.

Starter Drink

To begin, I chose a craft beer by 98WINEs, a winery based in Kōshū, Yamanashi.

Their “98BEERs SAISON”, brewed with bottle fermentation, reflects a winemaker’s aesthetic—an elegant expression of Japan’s new generation of craft beer.

Dishes Tasted

Smoked Macaron, Salmon, Cucumber, Dill

A bite-sized macaron filled with smoked salmon mousse, layered with cucumber and seaweed powder. A whimsical yet refined amuse-bouche.

Wagyu Tartare, Olive, Daikon, Buckwheat

A finger food featuring tartare of Miyazaki Wagyu, served on a tart base made of buckwheat, daikon, and olives. A clever balance of savory and aromatic.

Mushroom, Shallot, Shiso, Miso

A tempura of perilla leaf enclosing mushroom and shallot purée, elevated by a blend of shiso and white miso—a striking combination.

The bread served comes from JEAN FRANÇOIS, a renowned boulangerie originating in Paris, France. Its deeply baked crust and airy, tender crumb create a delightful contrast, releasing the toasty aroma of grains with every bite.

Accompanying it is a beautifully crafted, dome-shaped house-made whipped butter, as elegant as a dessert. Lightly dusted with a green powder reminiscent of matcha, it melts softly on the palate, gently enveloping the bread with its rich yet airy texture.

Scallop, Parsnip, Seaweed, Buttermilk

Seared scallop accompanied by parsnip, seaweed, and a refreshing dill and buttermilk sauce. A chilled starter with clarity and finesse.

For the chilled appetizer, I chose a natural wine from California—“Soft Soil 2019”.

Crafted by Stirm Wine Co., a Monterey-based winery known for its commitment to expressing the unique character of climate and soil, the wine is made with minimal intervention and a restrained use of SO₂.

True to its name, Soft Soil reflects the suppleness of grapes nurtured by gentle earth. It resonated beautifully with the delicate acidity and subtle temperature of the cold dish, offering a quiet, harmonious pairing.

A red wine with quiet strength—grounded and composed, like roots extending deep into the soil.

Eggplant, Macadamia, Basil, Pecorino

A six-layered pasta dish composed of eggplant, macadamia nuts, basil, and pecorino. Rich in texture and aromatic depth.

Ezo Deer Loin, Red Cabbage, Apple, Pain d’épices

The main course featured a beautifully roasted venison loin, accented with red cabbage, apple, and the spiced warmth of pain d’épices. Masterful in balance.

Saffron, Strawberry, Shochu Granité
Dessert brought together saffron-infused strawberries and a refreshing shochu granité—herbs and spices layered to the very end.

Saffron, Strawberry, Shochu Granité

Dessert brought together saffron-infused strawberries and a refreshing shochu granité—herbs and spices layered to the very end.

Final Thoughts

What stood out across every dish was the refined use of herbs and spices and the chef’s intuitive layering of flavor. Each component—its aroma, its texture—was drawn out with care, resulting in a light, rhythmic progression rather than a heavy, indulgent one.

The 46th-floor view of Yokohama was equally memorable, offering sweeping vistas of Tokyo Tower, Skytree, and even aircraft landing at Haneda. The Cosmo World Ferris wheel glittered in the foreground.

SMAAK balances cuisine, atmosphere, and service with quiet sophistication. It offers a window into the world of a three-Michelin-starred chef—right here in Yokohama.

Reservation & Access Information

Opening Hours
Lunch: 12:00–15:00 (Last order 13:30)
Dinner: 18:00–22:00 (Last order 20:00)
Closed on Mondays (Open if Monday is a national holiday)

Reservations

• Official site: https://smaak.jp/

• TableCheck: TableCheck

• Ikkyu: 一休レストラン

• Tabelog: 食べログ

• Pocket Concierge: Pocket Concierge

• Phone reservations available

Address
Yokohama Kitanaka Knot 46F
5-57-2 Kitanakadori, Naka-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa, Japan

Access

• Directly connected to Bashamichi Station (Minatomirai Line), Exit 2A

• 8-minute walk from Sakuragicho Station (JR Negishi Line / Yokohama Municipal Subway)

• Use the dedicated elevator from “Oakwood Suites Yokohama” to access the 46th floor.