About Sushi Bunpei

Concept

Opened in December 2024 in the refined Nishinakasu area, Sushi Bunpei is a seven-seat, intimate counter where carefully sourced seafood from the Genkai Sea and the Kyushu coast is served through an Edomae approach in an omakase course.

The calm, across-the-counter atmosphere—often called a “power spot of craftsmanship”—is designed so guests can concentrate wholly on the sushi.

The course, which balances delicate use of ingredients with precise technique, features 10–12 pieces of nigiri along with small dishes such as appetizers, creating a quietly profound, heartwarming experience.

About the Chef

Chef Bunpei Matsuo of “Sushi Bunpei” is the second-generation chef of the celebrated “Sushidokoro Tsukuda” in Karatsu, Saga. That venerable restaurant was opened in 1993 by Yuji Matsuo, who trained under Takeaki Niitsu of Ginza’s famed “Kiyota”.

As the second generation, Bunpei himself underwent rigorous training and went independent at a young age. Even before opening, he earned high praise at a pop-up with Moto-Azabu’s “Équateur,” laying the groundwork for his move into Fukuoka.

While inheriting traditional techniques, Matsuo’s style also embraces Western ideas. In Fukuoka—his new home—he is challenging himself to deepen his own expression of sushi.

Dining Prelude

Exterior & Entrance

Quietly nestled in a Nishinakasu alley, Sushi Bunpei.
Its entrance features a glossy black granite wall with a softly illuminated wooden nameplate. The hand-rendered lettering conveys warmth, and the discreet posture shields the space from the street.

Open the door and a checkerboard stone path unfolds underfoot, leading down a corridor with a crafted bamboo eave along the ceiling. Evocative of a tea room approach, the design instantly distances you from the city’s bustle and heightens anticipation for the extraordinary.

A presence steeped in Japanese stillness and artisan pride. Flowing here is the focused tension of confronting the work of “sushi” head-on, wrapped in a gentle hospitality. An entrance that perfectly symbolizes Sushi Bunpei’s worldview.

Dining Space

Beyond the door is a counter space with only seven seats.
The sukiya-style design, reminiscent of a tea room, exudes quiet elegance. Overhead, a finely assembled bamboo lattice ceiling spreads, while soft indirect lighting beautifully illuminates the natural wood.

The counter, made of premium pale wood, is a stage for the craft of sushi itself. With all excess pared away, the space naturally focuses attention on each plate and every gesture of the chef.

From the moment you are seated, the serene air invites a steadying breath.
Designed to engage guests with sincerity, the space seems to embody Bunpei’s credo of “careful, honest work.”

Menu Presentation

On this seven-seat stage, there is only one path: the omakase.
There is no printed menu; Chef Bunpei listens closely to the “voice” of the day’s ingredients and composes the course to capture what is at its peak.

Centered on seafood from the Genkai Sea and nearby Kyushu waters, the sequence moves from small sake snacks to nigiri. Rooted in Edomae technique, each piece is tuned with delicate balances of salt, vinegar, heat, and temperature to its optimal state.

Rather than being constrained by “sushi must be this way,” he cherishes “this very moment.” That stance comes through clearly across the counter.

Until the first dish arrives, guests are given only quiet and anticipation.
This blank space sharpens the senses and deepens immersion in the once-in-a-lifetime course.

Starter Drink

Fukuoka in June, heavy with humidity—the air already hinting at summer. In that setting, the first choice at Sushi Bunpei was a Heartland Beer.

The clear green bottle opens to pour a golden hue into a chilled glass. Aromatic yet light, with a soft mouthfeel—none of the heaviness some beers carry. A gentle bitterness glides down the throat, quietly washing away the muggy heat.

Sipping while watching the chef’s movements—each mouthful felt like resetting the season’s air, a quiet glass that announces the beginning.

Dishes Tasted

Hakata Bay Flounder with Yoichi Ankimo

The course opened with flounder landed in Hakata Bay, topped with shaved ankimo (monkfish liver) from Yoichi, Hokkaido.

Thinly sliced, the flounder’s translucent flesh delivered a gently sticky texture and delicate umami. The ankimo, crumbling softly on the tongue, added a rich depth—like a marriage of white fish and foie gras.

The ankimo was shaved to order—light and fluffy—blooming as it touched the warmth of the palate and giving dimension to the flounder’s subtleness.

Seemingly modest at first glance, the dish condensed local ingredients, technique, and composition—conveying Sushi Bunpei’s serious intent from the outset.

Raw Abalone Purée with Shimabara Somen

Arriving quietly in a white porcelain vessel: a cool raw abalone purée with Shimabara somen tucked within.

The abalone is not heated; it is pounded raw to draw out a natural viscosity. You sense a faint briny aroma and soft salinity, yet the overall taste is very restrained—an invitation to savor the “empty space” of the ingredient.

The somen inside glides across the tongue with a supple touch. Not assertive, but as an early-course dish it gently aligns the seasonal mood and rhythm of the sequence.

Sake Begins: Azumatsuru

As the early dishes concluded, sake pairings began.
The first pour was Azumatsuru, a local sake from Hasami, Nagasaki.

A sharp black label bearing the bold character “東.” In the glass, gentle grain aromas arise; on the palate a clear, slightly dry attack. The finish is swift—an ideal introduction to carry you from delicate starters toward nigiri.

Not flashy or ostentatious, but with well-defined contours that support the ingredients.
You sense the chef’s intent to begin with a calm, steady first bottle.

Beppu Bay Pen Shell Mixed with Shari (Lightly Grilled)

From Beppu Bay in Oita, pen shell (tairagai), lightly grilled, finely chopped and mixed with shari. Here, Bunpei’s shari shows its true character for the first time.

The vinegared rice has distinctly separate grains, a faint saltiness, and rounded acidity. It doesn’t shout; instead it properly receives and elevates the shell’s aroma and sweetness—an exquisite balance.

The grilled shell’s fragrance and gently resilient bite, enveloped by the tender shari.
This dish alone gave the instinctive sense that “the sushi here can be trusted.”

Second Sake: Mimurosugi Tokubetsu Junmai Karakuchi

As the meal gradually shifted toward nigiri, the next sake was Mimurosugi Tokubetsu Junmai Karakuchi from Imanishi Shuzo in Nara.

With its red label, this bottle drinks clean with gentle umami—a well-balanced food sake. Not overbearing, yet clearly defined and dry; it harmonizes beautifully with Sushi Bunpei’s ingredient-forward approach.

Aromatics are restrained, with soft rice expansion and a crisp finish.
It connected naturally from the pen shell rice to the coming shari-centered sequence—not so much a “bridge” as a companion at your side.

Fried Shark Fin (Blue Shark)

An unexpected offering: shark fin from blue shark. Rather than the classic Chinese braise, it’s simmered gently in bonito dashi, then fried for a fragrant, Japanese-style sake snack.

The coating is ultra-thin and crisp; beyond it lies the fin’s characteristic gelatinous softness and the savory dashi it has absorbed. Not a blast of impact, but a growing “huh?” that lingers more with each bite—subtly addictive.

Add a prickle of sansho salt or a squeeze of sudachi to tailor the taste—another joy. A memorable small plate showing wide versatility as a sake companion.

Third Sake: “Nichinichi” by Shirashika Shuzo (Kyoto)

As the third glass approached, a bottle arrived that seemed to quietly reset the room: “Nichinichi” by Shirashika Shuzo in Kyoto.

This signature label from a brewery devoted to “pure rice only” has a striking, minimalist design. The aroma is restrained and the attack gentle, with clean transparency and a gradually spreading rice umami.

Never assertive—yet precisely because of that, when placed alongside delicate snacks and nigiri, it subtly sharpens the food’s contours. A “quiet supporting actor.”

Cuttlefish with Kinome Miso

Arriving like a palate reset: cuttlefish dressed with kinome (Japanese pepper leaf) miso.
Neatly layered, lustrous white slices sit in a hand-painted dish, topped with a young-green kinome miso that adds a refreshing early-summer aroma.

Thick yet tender, the cuttlefish has a pleasantly crisp bite and releases sweetness as you chew. The kinome’s verdant coolness lifts the flavor—not heavy, finishing clean.

Simple yet sharply contoured, it resets the palate and focus before the next development.

Fourth Sake: Ugo no Tsuki “Fish-Label” (Aihara Shuzo, Hiroshima)

Just as nigiri draws near came Ugo no Tsuki “Fish-Label” from Aihara Shuzo in Hiroshima.
Around the bottle run kanji for sea bream, mackerel, yellowtail, salmon… A playful yet capable sake that screams “drink me with fish.”

The profile is clear, with moderate body and a clean, slicing finish. Acidity is restrained, designed not to interfere—especially with delicate white fish and vinegared rice—and even to lengthen the aftertaste.

At this timing, it felt like an impeccably straightforward “good sidekick” to face sushi head-on—a perfect lead-in to the nigiri sequence.

Akadashi with Eggplant

Here came a bowl of akadashi (red miso soup) with eggplant.
The depth of the miso and the eggplant’s silky softness meld gently, easing the shoulders.

It resets the palate and grants calm just before the nigiri. Not forceful, yet it quietly stirs the feeling of “delicious.”

Personally, it was a favorite—the natural sweetness of eggplant and the miso’s richness in perfect balance.
Unpretentious, leaving a quiet impression.

Into the Nigiri — The Start of a Quiet Rise

After the red miso soothed the heart, the chef’s motions across the counter began to change.
Each time the knife drew smoothly from a block on the wooden board, you could feel the air sharpen, little by little.

Arrayed before you: gleaming cuts with superb luster. White fish, blue-backed fish, shellfish, red-fleshed fish, silver-skinned fish, crustaceans—their beauty aligned like a gradient steals your breath.

Each ingredient is already primed. From here, every piece is a completed “work” to be received by eyes, tongue, and breath.
At last, Sushi Bunpei’s nigiri begins.

Shiro Amadai (White Tilefish)

The first piece: shiro amadai.
With a pale sheen and slightly translucent flesh, it exudes quiet presence. On the palate, rather than fatty sweetness, you sense a refined, gentle umami.

Melding perfectly with the shari’s warmth, a faint salinity and a kelp-like aroma rise with each chew—leaving that curious feeling of “unshowy, yet arresting.”

As an opening bite, it serves as a quiet calling card infused with the chef’s high gaze and restrained aesthetics.

Ao-ori Ika (Bigfin Reef Squid)

Second came the beautifully translucent aori-ika.
Finely scored, it’s meticulous even to the eye.

A springy chew unfolds alongside a slight, silky stickiness. The squid’s natural sweetness gently melds with the softly acidic shari, seeming to melt slowly in the mouth.

Not a showstopper, but a quietly resonant piece where ingredient quality and technique peek through.

Wataya Tokubetsu Junmai, Miyama Nishiki (Miyagi)

“Wataya” by Kin-no-i Shuzo in Miyagi, brewed with Miyama Nishiki from Nagano.
Reserved rather than flashy, it shows soft umami and a clean finish.

Within its faint sweetness, a generous rice savoriness spreads, with a light, swift aftertaste. It pairs well with ingredient-driven sushi—especially delicate toppings and gently seasoned shari.

Unpretentious, a sake that stays by the meal’s side.
It doesn’t drown out each course’s afterglow—only supports it.

Kuruma Ebi (Japanese Tiger Prawn)

A beautifully shaped piece.
Springy flesh with gentle sweetness and a soft hint of char.
The temperature balance with the shari is spot on—careful cooking shows.
A dignified nigiri where the ingredient’s strength unfolds smoothly.

Lean Tuna from Funka Bay, Hokkaido

Glossy, tight red flesh with firm texture and a faint acidity.
Elegant and not overly fatty; it pairs naturally with the red-vinegar shari.
A restrained piece where the origin’s character seeps through.

Chūtoro (Medium Fatty Tuna)

With moderate fat, the chūtoro softens the instant it meets the tongue, blending seamlessly with the red vinegar shari.
Not heavy—rather smooth with a clean finish.
Unassuming yet memorable, well balanced.

Ōtoro (Fatty Tuna)

At first bite, melting fat sweetness expands—an early highlight.
Thickness and savor convey the ingredient’s strength, raising anticipation for what follows.

“Kamonishiki Geppaku” by Kamonishiki Shuzo (Niigata)

Polishing ratio 40%, Tank No. 132,
labeled as “Nakagumi,” signaling a focus on balance.

Transparent aroma and a pure, clean palate.
It sits naturally with earlier delicate white fish and shellfish,
not overassertive, yet leaving a clearly felt afterglow.

A quiet presence that embodies the aesthetics of subtraction.

Aji (Horse Mackerel)

Umami and sweetness seep out the more you chew.
The aroma is not overpowering; combined with red-vinegar shari, it resolves into an elegant whole.

Kohada (Gizzard Shad)

The vinegar touch is gentle—Edomae chic with a certain kindness.
Rounded acidity and salinity meld softly with the shari.
A graceful nigiri that lingers quietly.

Hotate (Scallop)

Gently low-temperature-cooked so the fibers loosen tenderly.
Pre-crushed and shaped to yield a smooth, melting texture from the first bite.
Faint sweetness and slowly seeping umami overlap with the red-vinegar shari, leaving a calm aftertaste.

Uni (Sea Urchin)

Gently warm shari and the fragrance of crisp nori cradle a roll packed only with carefully selected uni. Serving it as a roll rather than a nigiri may have been the optimal choice to draw out that day’s uni character.

Melting sweetness with mineral notes—and a faint bitterness adding depth—unites with aromatic nori. The uni’s sheer quality stands out, a piece that tempts another cup of sake.

Anago (Sea Eel)

Fluffy flesh that falls apart softly, carrying a hint of char from the grill. The sauce is distinctly sweet yet never heavy—perfectly balanced with the shari.

Steamed to a plump tenderness and finished with a fragrant sear, it offers rich enjoyment through the aftertaste—gentle yet festive, ideal for the late course.

Tamagoyaki (Japanese Omelet)

Finally, the tamagoyaki—a symbol of the sushi chef’s pride—closes the sequence for the moment.

Baked moist and fluffy, it has a castella-like texture and the egg’s gentle natural sweetness. A faint dash of dashi tightens the finish, offering a kindly ending that relaxes the heart.

After time built carefully piece by piece, it leaves a graceful, quietly resonant finale.

Akanishi-gai (Whelk)

Striking for its firm, crunchy chew; the shellfish umami seeps out more with each bite. Along with the sea’s aroma, a faint bitterness tightens the finish.

Rare to encounter as sushi—perhaps a first. The heat treatment draws out umami while preserving a wild edge, provoking a satisfied murmur.

Memorable and fitting for the final stretch.

Kanpyō-maki (Dried Gourd Roll)

Richly simmered kanpyō with a clear line of wasabi heat—fragrant nori and red-vinegar shari come together in a simple yet long-lingering roll.

As a course closer, it avoids excessive sweetness and neatly tightens the palate. You feel a well-calculated balance to the very end.

Summary & Impressions

The son of the master of Karatsu’s famed “Tsukuda,” the chef has inherited that foundation while quietly and assuredly shaping the sushi he seeks to make.

The red-vinegared shari is gentle in touch with a comfortable warmth. It tastes delicious even on its own, and its unity with the toppings is superb. The refined form of each nigiri naturally reveals the beauty of his stance as a craftsman.

Grounded in tradition yet carefully realizing his ideal—sushi with a strong core. Though already of high completion, it still hints at further potential. One can’t help but look forward to how his sushi will evolve—already eager to return.

Reservations & Access

How to Book

• Booking site: Reservations via OMAKASE (Japanese/English supported).
  Example: slots are open through September 30, 2025.

• Reservation fee per seat: ¥390 per person .

• Cancellation policy:

  • From booking to just before the day: 10%

  • 7 to 2 days prior: 50%

  • 3 days prior to same day: 100%.

• Notes:

  • Please avoid strong scents (perfume, fabric softener, etc.), photography with bright light/sound, and wearing large accessories.

  • If you arrive late or leave mid-course, some dishes may not be served.

Access

• Address: 2F, STAGE1 Nishinakasu, 2-25 Nishinakasu, Chūō-ku, Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka .

• From nearest stations:

  • About 10 minutes on foot from Tenjin Station or Nakasu-Kawabata Station

  • About 4–6 minutes on foot from Tenjin-Minami Station (approx. 320 m–405 m).

Opening Hours

• Mon / Tue / Thu / Fri / Sat: 18:00–22:00 (last entry around 21:30).

• Sun: 17:00–21:00 (last entry around 20:30).

• Closed: Wednesday (with occasional irregular openings/closures).

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SUSHIFUKUOKA