About Funakoshi (Funakoshi)

Concept

An over-70-year-old detached house has been reborn as an eight-seat, tatami-floored counter. Stripped of ornamentation, the space is extremely minimal—only natural light and the warmth of wood remain—gently quieting the senses and directing focus to each piece before you. The cuisine offers a new sushi experience that fuses a “subtractive aesthetic” reflecting the seasons with honed techniques of both Edomae and Hakata-mae. Each piece draws out, with clarity and suppleness, the pure character of ingredients nurtured by Fukuoka’s sea and mountains, weaving a tranquil stage as a seamless flow.

About Chef Hisao Funakoshi

Chef Funakoshi mastered the “subtractive” approach to kaiseki—showcasing seasonal ingredients without excess—at Gyokusentei, a long-established ryotei in Kanazawa. He then further honed his craft at the Japanese restaurant Kataori after his mentor’s independence, studying continuously from kaiseki to sushi. Upon returning home, he joined Kiku-Zushi in Kasuga, Fukuoka, internalizing the light, deft movements of “Hakata-mae sushi” and the clean harmony between rice and fish. After years of training, he opened his own restaurant on November 20, 2024, in a standalone house in Noma. Each piece—where the delicate seasonality cultivated in Kanazawa intersects with the dynamism of nigiri forged in Hakata—quietly breathes respect for ingredients and trust with producers.

Restaurant Recognition

As it only opened in November 2024, there are no official accolades yet from guides such as the MICHELIN Guide or Gault&Millau.
However, the chef’s background—from launching “Kataori” in Kanazawa to serving as second-in-command at “Kiku-Zushi” in Fukuoka—is widely known in the industry, and from the outset the restaurant has drawn attention as “the most anticipated new sushi counter in Fukuoka.”

Highly rated reviews are increasing on gourmet sites such as Tabelog; diners praise the canapés (tsumami)—rooted in Kanazawa-style kaiseki quality—and a nigiri lineup based on Hakata-mae, as “combining individuality with sincerity.”

While accolades will be built over time, given the background and skill, there is strong potential for future recognition in guides such as MICHELIN, making this a spot to watch closely.

Dining Prelude

Exterior & Entrance

On the grounds of the renovated, over-70-year-old house, a spacious private parking area is provided. As you step from the car, a stone-paved approach comes into view; with each step along well-tended greenery, the everyday din recedes. The wooden lattice door at the gate and a white wall lantern bearing the word “Funakoshi” quietly signal a minimalist aesthetic that has pared away excess—an entrance that settles the mind even before the door opens, setting the stage for what follows.

Dining Space

Step through the gate and inside, remove your shoes and place your feet directly onto the tatami—the gesture signals you are entering a different realm.

Set your shoes aside and you’ll see a counter crafted from a single slab of pale wood. The eight chairs are set low, and beyond their backs, the lattice ceiling and indirect lighting paint soft gradations of light and shadow. A small vase holding seasonal grasses sits alone in a recessed wall niche. The minimalist space—stripped of excess decoration—balances warmth and stillness through the interplay of wood, light, and shadow, gently quieting the senses. Here, nothing is asked of you but to focus on the piece before you.

Starter Drink

Once seated at the counter, a piping-hot oshibori is offered first, followed by a calm sip of hojicha. The service—an inheritance from his mentor—warms the hands, and the fragrant tea settles the mind, gently guiding your focus toward the pieces to come.

Dishes We Tasted

First Dashi, Freshly Shaved, with Local Abalone

First came a bowl in which local abalone gently “swims” in freshly shaved primary dashi. Aromas of aged bonito rise cleanly, and the clear amber broth spreads softly across the palate. With each sip, the ocean savor from the abalone’s firm bite interlaces with the depth of the broth, conveying the careful craft in a single bowl. The mentor-influenced approach to drawing dashi speaks to technique that coaxes the voice of each ingredient, down to precise temperature control.

Kochi (Flathead) & Shako (Mantis Shrimp) Sashimi

Translucent, thin-sliced kochi and gently steamed shako on one plate.

First, a slice of kochi with only salt: the fish’s faint sweetness and brininess come through directly. The second slice, lightly dipped in house chiri-zu (citrus-vinegar): the gentle acidity tightens the sweetness, leaving a memorable contrast with the salted bite.

Shako is also served in two steps. First with salt, to enjoy the intricate sweetness and springy bite of the flesh. Then with soy sauce, which accentuates umami and reveals another aspect of the mantis shrimp’s rich flavor.

Grilled Course

Before you, thick-bellied cutlassfish (tachiuo) is skewered with care and slowly grilled over charcoal. When the skin crisps and turns fragrant, the chef portions the pillowy flesh into bite-size pieces and serves it immediately. First, taste it plain to savor the natural salinity and umami; then squeeze a touch of hebesu citrus to lend a refreshing acidity that tightens the sweetness—two distinct expressions on one plate.

Hakata Garland Chrysanthemum Shira-ae

The gentle bitterness of chrysanthemum greens merges with mellow white miso and the rich, toasty aroma of domestic sesame from Miyazaki. The amber-toned dressing softly elevates the greens’ character with a silky texture and lingering depth.

Hamo (Pike Conger) “Naruto-maki”

This white spiral roll begins with a slice sprinkled only with kombu salt. A whiff of ocean rises and the delicate sweetness of hamo’s flaky flesh stands out. From the second slice, a light brush of house plum sauce; the bright acidity tightens the subtle umami, creating an impressive contrast.

Alongside is freshly fried sweet-corn tempura. The juicy sweetness bursting through the thin batter is satisfying even on its own.

Crisped Rice Cracker & Monkfish Liver

A thin, fragrant okoge (toasted rice cracker) delivers aromatic rice notes and a light crunch with every bite. Paired with Yoichi monkfish liver, its dense umami and briny aroma bloom, while the narazuke beneath adds a faintly sweet, vinegared accent.

Enjoyed separately, each offers a straight expression of toastiness and richness; together, the okoge cushions the liver’s depth, creating an irresistible harmony that keeps the chopsticks moving.

Winter Melon Manjū

Encased in a translucent skin of winter melon, this dumpling releases a delicate freshness on the palate. Inside are juicy bell pepper, umami-rich shiitake, and plump kuruma-ebi; each bite reveals a new contrast of textures. A pale sauce poured over the top gently unifies the whole, leaving a cool afterglow.

Preparation for Nigiri

A fired, unglazed plate rests on a long, black-lacquered oval tray. Beside it are lightly salted cucumber pickles, gently sweet pickled ginger, and glossy kombu. The pristine pickles quietly reset the palate, serving as a serene prelude that guides attention toward the nigiri sequence to come.

Meichidai Nigiri (Red Sea Bream)

The shari blends red and white rice vinegars from Shoubunzu (Okawa, Fukuoka), lightly sweet and mildly acidic, permeating each grain. Topped with meichidai, whose pale pink flesh gleams softly, the bite unfolds gentle umami that layers with the rice’s rounded acidity and quiet finish.

Medai (“Daruma”) Nigiri

Known locally in Kyushu as “Daruma,” this fatty medai has softly lustrous, pale pink flesh whose sweetness spreads gently on the palate. In tandem with the Shoubunzu-blend shari, the subtle acidity quietly lifts the fish’s umami, leaving a sea-breeze finish—a piece that captures a local name and character.

Shinko (Young Gizzard Shad) Nigiri

A piece permitted only in early summer: shinko’s delicate flesh melts on the tongue with a feather-light touch. The silvery skin shows a faint translucence, and the gentle echo of vinegar carries the fleeting mood of the season.

Striped Jack from Kamigoto Nigiri

Cut thick, the flesh has a moist spring; with each chew, a fresh ocean aroma and refined sweetness of fat slowly expand. A piece memorable for its richness and juiciness in a single bite.

Tuna Nigiri (Munakata, Oshima—173 kg)

A piece made from a 173 kg tuna landed off Oshima, Munakata. The summer red meat, glistening with moisture, loosens silkily on the tongue before a faint sweetness spreads; the clean umami leaves a cool, early-summer aftertaste.

The Chef’s Approach to Tuna

• • Origin First
    While honoring tuna’s star status, he does not rely on Toyosu; he selects only fish landed in Kyushu’s nearby waters.

  • Decisive Restraint
    If the fish’s condition or the day’s climate doesn’t align, he has the resolve to rest tuna and pivot to other seasonal fish.

  • Seasonal Expression
    He avoids freezing and year-round offerings, pursuing a hospitality of the “seasonal sea” that lets you feel the shifting seasons in each single piece.

Bigfin Reef Squid (Aori-ika) Nigiri

A faintly translucent body is crosshatched with delicate scoring; in the mouth, a moist, silky texture gives way to a gentle sweetness. A light brush of nikiri soy leaves a mellow finish that quietly elevates the squid’s inherent sweetness, offering a cool, marine clarity with each bite.

Yokowa (Young Tuna) Nigiri

With a superb balance of red meat and fat, yokowa is lightly scored to help it loosen; in the mouth, it yields softly with a gentle sweetness. The youthful tuna’s light fat spreads pleasantly, finishing clean.

Ara (Large Grouper) Nigiri

A quick kiss of the torch on the skin brings out fragrance; the rich flesh falls apart tenderly, spreading gentle sweetness and depth. The interplay of charred aroma and fat lingers, delivering a deeply satisfying piece.

Kuruma-ebi from Shikanoshima Nigiri

Caught only in summer, the natural kuruma-ebi from Shikanoshima boasts translucent sweetness and lively snap. It releases a plump pop in the mouth, followed by a gentle sea-born sweetness—a seasonal, showy piece that lingers in memory.

Red Uni from Oita (Gunkan)

Glowing deep orange, the red uni melts creamily with concentrated sweetness. The crisp nori accentuates the aroma of sea urchin, while the shari’s gentle acidity tidies the finish. A single bite that captures the richness of Oita’s sea.

Clam Dashi Miso Soup

Freshly made miso soup sends up a gentle plume of rich clam broth; each sip spreads savory warmth and leaves a pleasant afterglow. The faint sweetness of the miso quietly supports the shellfish, making for a soft, fitting close.

Anago from Tsushima Nigiri

Raised in the waters around Tsushima, this thick-cut anago falls apart in the mouth with remarkable tenderness, its dense umami spreading gently. A slightly sweet glaze clings to the flesh, bringing out the eel’s delicate sweetness and depth—an apt finale to the nigiri sequence.

Additional Nigiri

Sea Bream

The translucent white flesh is moist and silky; with each bite, a gentle sweetness slowly blooms. A delicate umami melds with the shari’s mellow acidity, leaving a clean, refreshing finish.

Mackerel

Lightly cured saba hides tender flesh beneath a lustrous skin; it loosens softly in one bite. Vinegar’s acidity brightens the fish’s rich umami, showcasing a balance of freshness and maturation.

Horse Mackerel

Moist flesh carries measured savor that, in the mouth, meets a clean acidity alongside the sweetness of fat. A piece where the balance between freshness and aging stands out.

Toro–Taku Roll

Half of a roll combining the earlier Oshima red tuna with fragrant takuan. From the cross-section wrapped in nori, the juicy savor of tuna and the crisp bite of pickled radish harmonize beautifully. With each chew, the depth of the red meat spreads while the sweet-tart note of takuan cleans the finish—a perfect closing bite.

Kanpyo Roll

Gently sweet, plump-simmered kanpyo is rolled with the rich domestic sesame used in the canapés, then wrapped in nori. The kanpyo’s soft sweetness and sesame’s toastiness meet the shari’s light acidity, leaving a clean aftertaste—simple yet layered.

Tamagoyaki

The omelet showcases the egg’s natural flavor with a measured sweetness; each final bite leaves a faint, pleasant aftertaste. A piece where craftsmanship shines—fitting for the close of the course.

Summary & Impressions

The tsumami (small savory courses) clearly reflect the foundations of Japanese cuisine learned under Chef Kataori and through Kanazawa-style kaiseki. Building on that flow, the sushi is based on the “Hakata-mae” nigiri developed at Kiku-Zushi. It was striking how each piece expresses the gifts of season and place in what the chef deems the best form at that very moment.

Even with tuna, he eschews dependence on Toyosu or freezing, using only local fish selected with his own eyes. If the day’s condition isn’t satisfactory, he has the conviction to rest tuna—even though it’s the headliner. Elsewhere, the lineup centers on Kyushu seafood—natural kuruma-ebi from Shikanoshima, striped jack from Kamigoto, daruma (medai), red uni from Oita—and in the tsumami, domestic sesame from Miyazaki. The commitment to local ingredients shows through everywhere.

The house once belonged to his grandfather; it was renovated by his father, a carpenter; and now the grandson, the chef, stands at the counter. This three-generation story naturally melds into both space and cuisine, creating warmth and sincerity. Though only 33, he has more than a decade of training; beyond his background, his character, gentle movements, and calm atmosphere left a lasting impression.

He engages honestly with the season and each day’s catch, expressing “now” through both sushi and small plates without gimmickry. Unpretentious yet grounded, this is a Fukuoka sushi experience where family and place, a mentor’s technique, and the chef’s own sensibility overlap with natural ease.

Reservations & Access

How to Book

Reservations only. Bookings are taken by phone. As the restaurant is newly opened and seating is limited, it’s best to inquire a few weeks in advance of your preferred date.

Opening Hours

Lunch: from 12:00
Dinner: from 18:00
(omakase course only for both)
*Closed: Sundays & Mondays (with occasional irregular closures)

Access

Address: Minami Ward, Noma, Fukuoka City (details provided upon reservation)
Nearest station: within walking distance of Nishitetsu Takamiya Station
Parking: on-site private parking available

TAGS

SUSHIFUKUOKA