About Cha-Kaiseki Onjaku

Concept

Nestled quietly in a tranquil residential area of Yaizu, Shizuoka, Cha-Kaiseki Onjaku offers an intimate dining experience rooted in the spirit of cha-kaiseki—the traditional cuisine served during the Japanese tea ceremony—while embracing creative freedom beyond rigid formality. The restaurant is known for its delicate expression of the changing seasons and the intrinsic flavors of carefully selected ingredients.

Upon entering, guests are enveloped in a serene atmosphere where time seems to pause. There is no flashiness or excessive ornamentation; instead, a refined sense of aesthetic permeates every detail—from the thoughtful selection of tableware to the elegant restraint in plating.

Each course is crafted with subtlety and balance, guided by the essence of chanoyu (the Way of Tea). Attention is paid to every nuance—layered umami, fragrant aromas, shifts in temperature, and intentional pauses—all designed to echo the surrounding nature and the quiet spirit of Yaizu’s land and sea.

At its heart, the dining experience at Onjaku embodies the ethos of omotenashi, or wholehearted hospitality—honoring the beauty of lingering impressions and the spaces in between. This, perhaps, is the true meaning behind the name “Onjaku” (温石), literally “warm stone”—a quiet warmth that lingers long after the meal has ended.

Chef Daigo Sugiyama

Rooted in Yaizu, Where Local Seafood Meets the Spirit of Cha-Kaiseki

At Cha-Kaiseki Onjaku, tradition and refinement come together in quiet harmony. This deeply rooted establishment in Yaizu offers a unique culinary experience where the rich bounty of the local sea is expressed through the thoughtful lens of cha-kaiseki.

At the helm is second-generation chef Daigo Sugiyama, born in Yaizu in 1984. Carrying forward the legacy of his family’s restaurant—which was originally a soba shop run by his grandparents and later transformed into a kaiseki restaurant by his father—Sugiyama knew as early as high school that he wanted to be a chef. After graduation, he spent six years honing his craft at Wakou, a distinguished kappo restaurant in Mejiro, Tokyo, before returning home in 2008. Since then, he has worked alongside his father, now leading the kitchen as the restaurant’s core presence.

At the heart of Sugiyama’s cuisine lies a trusted partnership with Sasue Maeda Fish Shop, one of Yaizu’s most respected fishmongers. His approach is meticulous: cooking methods and preparation styles are adjusted based on the specific condition of each fish—a level of precision that exemplifies true craftsmanship. Among his standout creations is the grilled kinmedai with crispy scales, where the scales are deep-fried, the flesh is charcoal-grilled, and a touch of simmered sauce brings depth—a dish born from a deep dialogue between technique and ingredient.

In 2019, the restaurant underwent a complete renovation. While preserving the charm of the original kominka (traditional Japanese house), modern elements were gently woven into the design. The result is a space filled with both tranquility and warmth—qualities that echo Sugiyama’s cuisine.

Never flashy or showy, Sugiyama’s style is grounded in sincerity and restraint. His calm presence and the inner strength of each dish quietly disarm guests, drawing in gourmets and culinary seekers alike with a lasting sense of peace and fulfillment.

Acclaim and Recognition

Cha-Kaiseki Onjaku has earned widespread acclaim on Japan’s premier restaurant review platform through the prestigious Tabelog Awards. It began with a Bronze award in 2020, then Silver, and from 2023, it has held the Gold designation for three consecutive years. The restaurant has also been repeatedly selected for the “Tabelog Top 100 Japanese Restaurants in Eastern Japan”, affirming its reputation as one of the region’s culinary landmarks.

In the Gault & Millau 2025 guide, Chef Sugiyama was honored with the “Grand de Demain” (Chef of Tomorrow)award. His commitment to Japanese culinary techniques, the tea ceremony spirit, and a deep engagement with local ingredients was highly praised.

His refined handling of fish, delicate heat control, and exquisite use of tableware—all elevated through a longstanding partnership with Sasue Maeda Fish Shop—exemplify Sugiyama’s unique aesthetic of “the beauty of subtraction.” The quiet tension and clarity captured in each dish have won admiration from both Japanese and international audiences.

Without relying on flashy advertising or theatrical presentations, Onjaku has quietly earned its standing through years of sincere focus on the food and the guests in front of it.

Dining Prelude

Exterior & Entrance

As you stroll through the quiet residential streets of Yaizu, a traditional earthen wall and a deep-hued noren (curtain) suddenly come into view. The entrance to Cha-Kaiseki Onjaku softly blurs the boundary between the everyday and the extraordinary—reminiscent of the narrow path leading to a secluded tea house.

A modestly lit sign and moist, gently tended greenery greet you. As you move deeper into the alley, the air subtly shifts, and a sense of calm begins to settle over you.

Beyond the lattice door lies a small garden imbued with the aesthetics of wabi—humble beauty. A bamboo fence, stepping stones, and softly subdued lighting gently guide each guest toward a moment of true hospitality.

Without making bold statements, the setting speaks with quiet grace. Even before the first dish arrives, the spirit of “Onjaku” has already begun to unfold.

Dining Space

Inside, the space is defined by a cedar wood floor and a beautifully grained, single-slab counter. At its center, a sunken charcoal hearth acts as a culinary stage, allowing guests to witness the chef’s delicate techniques up close.

This new space was designed by Chef Sugiyama as a departure from the restaurant’s earlier private-room format. His goal: to deliver each dish at the precise moment it is at its most delicious.

At your seat, a round wooden tray, a pair of chopsticks, and a small rest are placed before you. The quiet presence of the natural wood gently heightens the anticipation for the meal ahead.

Menu Presentation

At Onjaku, there is no fixed menu. Instead, guests are treated to a thoughtfully curated omakase course, created anew each day.

Guided by the seasons and the condition of each ingredient at that very moment, Chef Sugiyama constructs each course with subtlety and precision. From the bountiful fish of Suruga Bay, to local vegetables and mountain fare from the Enshū region, the ingredients speak for themselves. The dishes emerge quietly, yet inevitably—born from an intimate dialogue between the chef and his ingredients.

From the opening sakizuke to the hassun, the soup course, grilled dish, and finally the freshly cooked rice served from an iron pot—the meal flows like a quiet narrative. The contrast of temperatures, the rise of aromas, the texture of the vessels—all combine to transcend mere eating, offering instead an experience of being fully present in the moment and space.

Rooted in the framework of cha-kaiseki yet unbound by formality, Onjaku’s cuisine embraces creative freedom with unwavering composure. It is precisely because the meal is left in the chef’s hands that each encounter becomes a true ichigo ichie—a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Starter Drink

The meal began with a glass of well-chilled draft beer. Surrounded by the gentle glow of subdued lighting and the soft scent of wood, this smooth, easy-drinking first sip quietly shifted the senses—marking the beginning of a quietly profound dining experience.

Dishes Tasted

Aji Rolled in Cucumber

The course began with a refreshing and elegant composition: fresh aji (horse mackerel) from Yaizu, delicately wrapped in thinly sliced cucumber.

The rich, silky texture of the fish was quietly complemented by the crisp, cooling cucumber. A small dab of plum pasteperched on top provided a gentle, bright acidity that brought the whole dish into focus.

As it melted in the mouth, the umami of the fish, the crunch of cucumber, and the tartness of plum unfolded in harmony. Minimal in construction, yet full of purpose—this opening dish conveyed a refined beauty in the way the ingredients were layered.

Charcoal-Grilled Jindou Ika

With squid ink-ginger sauce, nanohana, and house-made mustard

Next came a seasonal highlight: Jindou ika (a small squid) lightly grilled over charcoal.

Tender enough to melt with each bite, the squid carried a subtle smokiness. It was finished with a house-made squid ink and ginger sauce—the deep richness of the ink paired with the fresh, clean bite of ginger, leaving a quietly complex aftertaste.

Accompanying the dish were nanohana (rapeseed blossoms), hinting at the end of spring, and a gently acidic house-made mustard. The bitterness of the greens and the fermentation notes from the mustard added a layered backdrop, lifting the squid’s flavor and painting a scenic seasonal tableau on the plate.

Though seemingly simple, every element—from the cooking method to the temperature and aroma—was meticulously calibrated. A true expression of Onjaku’s understated precision.

Transitioning to Sake

With “Kaiun Nigori” from Doi Shuzo (Shizuoka)

As the meal progressed with graceful stillness, a glass of Kaiun Nigori sake was served—locally brewed by Doi Shuzo in Shizuoka.

With its signature soft sweetness and mellow rice umami, this lightly cloudy sake filled the palate with gentle richness. Served in a wine glass, its aromas and lingering notes could be savored with delicate clarity.

Its subtle effervescence wrapped gently around the flavors of squid ink and mustard, guiding the diner into a seamless harmony between food and drink—a moment of serene cohesion that marked a deepening of the evening’s experience at Onjaku.

Yaizu Pike Conger Tsukune

With roasted green onion leaves

A standout dish followed: a tsukune (meatball) made from freshly caught hamo (pike conger) from Yaizu, prepared without the traditional “honegiri” bone-cutting technique.

Finely minced, the hamo offered a fluffy texture with surprising resilience. As one chewed, its delicate sweetness slowly bloomed across the palate.

Topping the tsukune were roasted green onion leaves, their grassy aroma intensified through heat, adding depth to the hamo’s gentle flavor. Though rustic at a glance, the dish was elevated by its attention to restraint and nuance.

Rather than adding or subtracting, it revealed the essence of what it means to draw out a flavor—quietly persuasive, quietly masterful.

Soup with Shiro Amadai

With shiitake, warabi, and sansho leaf

The next course featured a clear soup with shiro amadai (tilefish), subtly simmered to perfection.

Tender to the point of falling apart, the amadai held a firm umami beneath its delicate surface. Beneath it, shiitake mushrooms and warabi (bracken fern) offered quiet, earthy tones from the mountains.

The ingredients merged in the dashi without overpowering it, allowing each layer to linger with clarity. A single sprig of sansho leaf placed at the end brought a gentle, delayed burst of citrus-pepper aroma—an exhale of spring turning to early summer.

This was a clear, seasonal reflection in soup form—pure, thoughtful, and perfectly timed.

Sashimi Plate

Seared Sawara, Dorobai Ika, and Hama-bōfu Herb

The sashimi course showcased the bounty of the sea with a striking yet subtle pairing: seared sawara (Spanish mackerel) and dorobai ika (a local squid variety), presented with the rare herb hama-bōfu.

The sawara, gently seared over charcoal, released a touch of fragrant smokiness while its rich, sweet fat lingered on the tongue. In contrast, the dorobai ika offered a creamy, almost sticky texture with a quiet ocean sweetness—together, they created a beautiful balance of contrast and complement.

Accentuating the dish was hama-bōfu, an aromatic coastal plant. Its wild, herbal notes brought a surprising dimension, adding depth and a refreshing lift to the seafood.

From ingredient quality to fire technique and aromatic layering, every choice in this dish felt like a sharpened act of discernment—each element finely tuned, each bite reverberating with clarity.

Deep-Fried Flatjack Wrapped in Lotus Root

Crisp and golden on the outside, this spherical fritter revealed a center of moist, flavorful flatjack mackerel (hira-aji). The fish was encased in slices of lotus root, whose slight stickiness and crisp texture perfectly balanced the richness of the fish.

Accompanied only by wasabi and salt, the dish was a statement in minimalism—allowing the natural flavor of the ingredients to shine without embellishment.

Despite being deep-fried, it felt light on the palate, moving delicately between savoriness and subtlety. A dish that lingered in memory for its graceful simplicity and balance.

Hatsukame Tokubetsu Junmai

Unfiltered, Undiluted Nama Genshu

This course was paired with Hatsukame Tokubetsu Junmai Nama Genshu, a robust yet refined sake from the centuries-old Hatsukame Brewery in Shimada, Shizuoka.

Its characteristic strength as a nama genshu (unpasteurized and undiluted) was softened by gentle curves of rice umami and acidity. It harmonized beautifully with the richness of dishes like the seared sawara and the deep-fried flatjack—never overpowering, but gently aligning.

Like Onjaku’s cuisine, the sake had a clear presence without assertiveness—offering an elegant rise and fall in the middle of the course.

Buri Shabu-Shabu

With New Onion

Delicate slices of buri (yellowtail), glistening and marbled, were paired with thinly sliced new onion and cooked shabu-shabu style before the guest’s eyes.

Lightly poached at just the right moment, the fat of the buri gently melted away, revealing its refined umami. The sweetness and crisp moisture of the new onion added a refreshing counterpoint, enriching the depth of flavor with each bite.

More than a dish to “boil,” this was a dish barely touched by heat—a fleeting moment captured with chefly intuition. A quiet expression of Onjaku’s culinary sensibility.

Charcoal-Grilled Morning-Harvested Zucchini

At first glance, a humble grilled vegetable. But once you know it’s a morning-harvested zucchini, the dish transforms.

Freshly picked just hours before cooking, the zucchini retained a high water content that allowed it to withstand the intense charcoal heat—caramelizing the exterior while preserving juicy sweetness within.

With each bite, it burst with moisture, sweetness, and a subtle smokiness. No sauce, no seasoning needed. Just pure zucchini, redefined. A surprising and unforgettable dish.

Charcoal-Grilled Nodoguro

With Sansho Soy Sauce

Next came a perfectly grilled nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), rich with fat and cooked slowly over charcoal.

The skin was crisp and aromatic, while the flesh remained soft and succulent—almost steam-like in texture. Despite the intense heat, the fish’s integrity was fully preserved—a testament to precise technique.

Paired with a homemade sansho-infused soy sauce, the mild bitterness and spice of the sansho berries mingled with the nodoguro’s fat, leaving behind a quiet, lingering finish.

A dish that encapsulated the heart of Onjaku—where fire, breath, and the life of the ingredient converge in a silent, decisive instant.

White Asparagus and Tomato

With Asparagus Broth

Bridging the grilled course and the next chapter was a delicate plate of white asparagus and tomato, accompanied by a surprising element: a broth made entirely from the asparagus itself.

Deeply flavorful, with a hint of sweetness, the broth carried the richness of a consommé yet finished with a clean, clear note.

The texture of the asparagus, the acidity of the tomato, and the umami-rich broth formed a seamless whole. More than a palate cleanser, it stood as a fully composed dish in its own right—quietly moving and beautifully complete.

Kirinzan “Kouyou”

Light, Long-Aged Seasonal Daiginjo (Kirinzan Brewery, Niigata)

As the latter half of the meal began, a seasonal sake was poured: Kouyou, a limited-edition, long-aged daiginjo from Kirinzan Brewery in Niigata.

Despite its aging, it remained astonishingly light on the palate. Behind that lightness emerged a round, matured umami, finishing with a clean, elegant sharpness.

Its flavor profile echoed that of the nodoguro and the asparagus broth—quiet but layered, autumnal in spirit. A perfect glass for the season, chosen with precision to align with the flow of cha-kaiseki.

Niebana

A Spoonful of Just-Cooked Rice

At this point, a small spoonful of niebana was served—rice just moments away from full doneness, still with a bit of firmness at its core. A fleeting, almost meditative pause before the main meat course.

Charcoal-Grilled Shiretoko Beef

For the main, Shiretoko beef from Hokkaido made a quiet yet powerful appearance.

Skewered and suspended above a charcoal flame, the meat was alternately exposed to direct and indirect heat—allowing it to cook gently over time. After resting at low temperature, the result was astonishingly tender and smooth, the lean meat melting with each bite.

Served with mountain greens and wild herbs, the bitterness and aroma of the foliage added an earthy counterpoint to the beef’s deep umami. A dish of quiet power, positioned like the summit of the meal’s narrative arc—resonant, but never overbearing.

Two Final Rice Dishes

Takenoko Gohan & Buri Zuke Don

To close the meal, two seasonal rice bowls were served:

• Takenoko Gohan (Bamboo Shoot Rice): Gently simmered bamboo shoots with a hint of sweetness, accented by the fresh aroma of kinome (sansho leaves)—a bowl that captured the essence of lingering spring.

• Buri Zuke Don: Rice topped with thick slices of marinated buri, their gloss subtly warmed by the residual heat of the rice. The marinade’s umami and the gentle melting of the fish offered a luxurious, satisfying finale.

Accompanied by a miso soup with rich dashi and a selection of pickles, the finish was calm and composed—each element quietly fulfilling its role.

Nothing was wasted. Every detail felt intentional. A final act that fully embodied the Onjaku philosophy—of restraint, balance, and profound hospitality.

Dessert & Finale

Shizuoka Strawberry “Kirapika”

To close the meal, a single Kirapika strawberry from Shizuoka was served—living up to its name with a jewel-like gloss and a sparkling, vivid aroma that bursts forth the moment it touches the tongue.

Juicy yet rich, with minimal acidity and a clean, lingering sweetness, it was the perfect conclusion to a kaiseki course—elevating the sense of bliss with its elegant and refined flavor.

Castella “Takenoko”

Then came a playful surprise: a slice of castella cake shaped like a bamboo shoot, introduced with the cheeky line, “And now, a final serving of takenoko.”

Softly baked into a triangular form that evoked the image of spring mountains, this whimsical gesture from the chef brought smiles and a lighthearted close to the meal.

Matcha

Finally, a bowl of matcha was served—fragrant and velvety. This quiet, warming cup gently enveloped the lingering sensations from the entire course, offering a graceful finale in true tea ceremony fashion.

Reflection

Throughout the meal, there was a continual sense of awe at how each dish revealed the essence of its ingredients—especially through the skillful use of charcoal grilling and the delicate layering of seasonal aromas.

Highlights included the homemade squid ink and ginger sauce accompanying the jindou ika, the white tilefish soupwith sansho fragrance, and the nodoguro grilled to perfection over charcoal. Each showcased contrasts in aroma and texture that captured the transition into spring through all five senses.

But most memorable of all was the Shiretoko beef. Cooked slowly above the charcoal, then rested over low heat, the meat retained its deep umami and finished incredibly tender. Every bite unfolded with richness, prompting silent nods of appreciation.

The carefully prepared rice dishes—from the early-stage niebana to the bamboo shoot rice and buri marinated donburi—reflected meticulous attention to seasonal detail. The refined sweetness of the Kirapika strawberry and the playful castella bamboo shoot offered a delightful and complete close.

In a space where quietude and warmth coexist, the chef’s focused presence and the team’s sincere hospitality created an atmosphere of exceptional comfort. Surrounded by the aroma of charcoal, this was an experience to be remembered—a truly special moment in time.

Reservation & Access Information

Access

• Address: 6-14-12 Honmachi, Yaizu-shi, Shizuoka, Japan

• Nearest Station: Approx. 20-minute walk (1.3–2 km) from JR Yaizu Station

• By Car: About 15 minutes from Tomei Yaizu Interchange

• Parking: Available for 4 vehicles (carpooling recommended)

Opening Hours & Closed Days

Reservations

• By reservation only; no tentative holds—final confirmation required.

• Bookings can be made via the official site (TableCheck).

• Email form reservations are also accepted (with an option to note dietary needs such as light appetites).

• Booking window: Reservations open on the 1st of each month for dining dates through the end of the second month ahead.