CONTENTS
About Chikamatsu
Concept
Hidden in a quiet alley of Yakuin, Fukuoka, Chikamatsu is a sushi restaurant accessible by introduction only.
Among Fukuoka’s many renowned restaurants, it stands apart as a legendary name whispered among connoisseurs.
The course is single-mindedly focused on sushi.
No appetizers—only the interplay of shari and neta, a stoic composition built solely on their balance.
Every piece carries astonishing precision: the rice, vinegar, aging, temperature, even the knife cuts—all meticulously expressing the master’s aesthetic.
The shari is classic Edo-style with a bold touch of red vinegar.
The seafood, sourced mainly from Kyushu waters, is served either aged or freshly ikejime, depending on its best state.
Control of aroma and temperature is flawless, and each piece is crafted at the exact peak of fat and umami, reflecting a chef’s sharpened instincts.
Inside, the air carries a poised tension, yet the master’s gentle smile softens the mood.
This is, quite literally, “a space to face sushi.”
About the Master – Nobuhiro Sakanishi
Leading Chikamatsu is Nobuhiro Sakanishi. After high school, he entered the world of sushi by helping at his uncle’s restaurant, later training rigorously at Hakata’s celebrated Sushi Kawashou Honten. Eventually, he returned to his hometown to open Chikamatsu in Fukuoka.
Chef Sakanishi is a craftsman devoted to Edo-style nigiri, using only red vinegar shari and carefully preparing the best fish of each season. Guided by his belief to “sell your heart to the guest,” he strives to offer not only sushi, but an entire story and atmosphere through each nigiri.
Family and Succession – The Chikamatsu Story
At the counter, father and son take turns shaping the sushi. The son already handles around seven pieces in the course, his careful and earnest touch blending with his father’s assured and fluid style, together sustaining the unique spirit of Chikamatsu.
The father’s nigiri shines with confidence and refinement; the son’s, with sincerity and steady exploration. This passing of not just technique, but also atmosphere and philosophy, leaves a lasting impression.
Supporting them both is the wife, whose grace, attentiveness, and hospitality soften the counter’s tension and add warmth to the space.
Photo taken in April 2022.
Recognition
Chikamatsu earned two Michelin stars in the 2014 Michelin Fukuoka & Saga Special Edition. It has since received multiple Tabelog Awards, both Gold and Silver, and has been listed several times among the “Top 100 Sushi Restaurants West,” cementing its status as one of Western Japan’s most respected sushi destinations.
Chefs and guests alike praise its uncompromising spirit, with many declaring it “worth traveling from afar.” While reservations are notoriously difficult, gourmets continue to visit, seeking the unforgettable emotion carried in each piece.
Dining Prelude
Exterior & Entrance
Just a step away from Yakuin’s bustle lies a quiet alley.
There, behind black lattice doors and a small white noren curtain, sits Chikamatsu.
There is no flashy signage—only a discreet nameplate, as if to say, “It need only be found by those who truly seek it.”
Crossing the threshold, the air shifts instantly.
The entrance reflects a minimalist aesthetic, pared down to essentials, yet carrying a subtle warmth.
The silence feels like a prelude, preparing the mind for the intimate sushi journey ahead.
It is, quite literally, “a small stage separated from the noise.”
From its very exterior, the restaurant begins to tell a story.
Dining Space
Inside, the view opens onto a single, straight counter—nothing else.
All focus is drawn to the counter seats, where every detail is honed to create a tea room–like stillness, free of excess sound or words.
Lighting is subdued, illuminating only the sushi before you. Minimal décor keeps the gaze naturally fixed on the counter and the hands of the chefs.
Seating is highly limited. The omakase course begins for all at once, unfolding like a single performance. Father and son alternate in shaping each piece, yet the rhythm remains seamless—every pause and gesture absorbed into the silence of the room.
There is no background music. Only the sound of knives against wood, rice being shaped, and quiet conversation. Each element feels intentional, designed to focus the senses.
Photography is prohibited, and even smartphone use is discouraged.
This is not merely etiquette, but an invitation to cherish the quiet dialogue between sushi and guest, free of distraction.
Rather than taking home information, one is urged to absorb the moment’s air, aroma, and rhythm through the five senses. This approach creates a calm intensity, heightening presence in the here and now.
It is not a place to simply eat sushi, but to spend time in contemplation with it.
The dining room of Chikamatsu embodies this rarefied purpose.
Menu Presentation
Chikamatsu offers only one option: the omakase course.
The flow is anchored in nigiri, with occasional warm dishes—steamed, grilled, or soup—to gently pace the rhythm.
There are no appetizers or small plates. It is, at its core, nigiri alone.
Each piece carries sharpened tension, revealing not just freshness but the layers of aging, curing, grilling, knife work, and subtle aromas that shape its final form.
The course is not fixed. It shifts daily with the market and the seasons, presenting only what is at its peak. “Today, young kohada arrived from Amakusa,” or “This moment calls for a touch of yuzu with kodai”—the offerings are guided by season and instinct.
Spring may open with simmered octopus, early summer with young shinko, high summer with hamo in clear broth, autumn with richer grilled fish. The rhythm of the seasons emerges naturally through the omakase.
The chef’s role is not to impose structure, but to choose—to let the ingredients speak. Each day’s “best possible” is layered quietly, piece by piece. In this lies the aesthetic spirit of Chikamatsu.
Signature Dishes Experienced
Simmered Octopus in Roasted Hōjicha – An Opening Prelude
The course begins with Chikamatsu’s signature octopus simmered in hōjicha.
High-grade roasted tea leaves are used generously, and the octopus is gently simmered for over an hour. The result is astonishing tenderness—fibers unravel softly on the tongue, dissolving without resistance.
The fragrance of hōjicha permeates to the core, bringing depth without heaviness. Sweetness of the octopus balances with the tea’s faint bitterness, highlighting the ingredient’s pure outline. This is not just cooking, but a quiet dialogue of aroma and heat.
A dish born from respect, time, and technique—subtle yet powerful, setting the stage for the nigiri to follow.
Aori-ika (Bigfin Reef Squid) – The Quiet Beginning of Technique
The first nigiri is aori-ika, its flesh snowy white and translucent. The master slices it into astonishingly thin cuts, then crosshatches with precise blade work, loosening the fibers delicately. Watching alone conveys tension and mastery.
On the tongue, it clings with a silken texture, its natural sweetness amplified. The fine cuts heighten integration with the red vinegar shari, binding rice and squid into one.
Here, flavor is not imposed; texture, born of knife and temperature, becomes the centerpiece. The philosophy of Chikamatsu is already clear—sushi carried by technique.
Hirame – By the Son’s Hand
From the master’s artistry, the second piece shifts to the son: hirame (flounder). His hands still carry youth, but his movements are steady and assured. Slightly rested, the fish gleams faintly with translucence and sheen.
On the tongue, a gentle umami unfolds—moist yet never watery, proof of precise curing. The pairing with the shari is seamless, quiet yet honest in expression.
It is one of seven pieces the son now handles within the course. A piece that quietly declares the succession of skill and spirit.
Akami-zuke – Marinated Lean Tuna
The third nigiri, also by the son, is akami-zuke. Carefully chosen tuna is marinated just long enough—not too brief, not too prolonged. The balance preserves the iron and acidity while rounding into a gentle savor.
On the palate, the red vinegar rice supports the tuna’s clean flavor, expanding softly. The handling is precise, the gestures efficient. You sense the inheritance of the master’s philosophy, yet also the son’s search for “his own akami.”
Shinko from Amakusa – First Taste of Summer
The fourth piece returns to the father’s hands: shinko (young gizzard shad), freshly arrived from Amakusa that very day.
Prepared as nine delicate layers, the fillets are stacked to form a single shimmering body—restrained, yet exuding quiet power.
In the mouth, its ephemeral texture dissolves with faint acidity and a translucent layer of fat. This fleeting harmony exists only in early summer. Paired with the bold red vinegar shari, the piece achieves complete expression as sushi.
Interlude: Chawanmushi with Abalone and Liver
To ease the flow, a warm interlude appears: steamed egg custard with abalone and its liver. Opening the lid releases ocean aroma layered with a gentle bitterness of liver.
Inside rests a tender slice of thick abalone and a small piece of its liver, steamed whole to preserve its silky richness. The custard base is smooth and savory, uniting umami, sweetness, and faint bitterness into a deep, lingering contrast.
Kohada – Cured Gizzard Shad
The kohada is prepared by the son. The vinegar is applied with restraint—never overpowering—drawing out the fish’s gentle umami. Its silvery skin glistens, balanced with mild acidity and subtle fat. In the mouth, it softens gracefully, serving as a refreshing accent within the flow of the course.
Ōtoro – Fatty Tuna
From the master comes a piece of ōtoro. The sweetness of its rich fat spreads immediately, yet the sharp red vinegar shari grounds it, preventing heaviness. A perfectly balanced bite, indulgent but never cloying—showcasing both luxury and restraint.
Kodai – Young Sea Bream
This nigiri, by the son, layers gentle smokiness from the seared skin with the refined fat of the flesh. A touch of freshly grated yuzu zest brings a cleansing aroma, leaving a cool aftertaste. A dish where subtle umami and fragrance meet in harmony.
Grilled Mehikari – A Pause in the Flow
Offered as a grilled interlude, mehikari (greeneye fish) is small yet full of fat. The skin crackles with aromatic char, while the flesh remains moist, releasing flavor with every bite. Neither too bold nor too light, it fits naturally into the sequence of the course.
Kurumebi – Japanese Tiger Prawn
Prepared by the son, the kurumaebi retains firmness while yielding sweetness with each bite. The aroma of its freshly peeled shell lingers, while the springy flesh pairs seamlessly with the shari. A piece that conveys care and precision.
Shima-aji – Striped Jack
This wild-caught shima-aji is crafted by the master. Its rich fat is cut with clean strokes, melding instantly with the rice. The result is depth without weight, clarity without excess—an elegant expression of balance and finish.
Isaki – Grilled Grunt
The master lightly sears the skin of isaki, releasing its fragrance. The fat and tender flesh mingle in the mouth, while the char’s aroma intertwines with the red vinegar rice. It’s a reminder of how fire alone can transform the impression of sushi.
Clear Soup of Hamo and Junsai
Between nigiri comes a bowl of hamo with junsai. The clear broth is refined, carrying the fluffy texture of expertly cut hamo and the smooth, cooling slide of junsai. The lightness and clarity reset the senses, preparing for the next series of sushi.
Tairagai – Pen Shell
The master serves the tairagai in the form of a norimaki. The clam’s crisp bite releases gentle sweetness, which merges beautifully with the roasted aroma of nori. A simple preparation, yet one that distills the essence of the ingredient into a memorable piece.
Uni from Ainoshima
The uni, wrapped in nori, comes from Ainoshima, an island off Shingū in Fukuoka renowned for its pristine seafood. Its flavor is rich and sweet, layered with a distinct mineral depth. The union with fragrant seaweed creates remarkable complexity in a single bite.
Each chew extends the umami, leaving a long, quiet finish of satisfaction.
Aji – Horse Mackerel
The aji, shaped by the master, is strikingly thick and fatty—far from the common image of horse mackerel. Each bite releases waves of umami, perfectly aligned with the red vinegar rice. Known for its excellence in blue fish, Chikamatsu’s aji demonstrates exacting balance of fat, curing, and knife work, leaving both visual and gustatory impact.
Anago – Sea Eel
Prepared by the son, the anago is steamed to a pillowy softness. It dissolves smoothly in the mouth, the glaze understated, allowing the charred aroma and natural sweetness of the eel to shine. A gentle finale piece, harmonizing the course’s end.
Tamago – Sweet Omelet
The tamago is a moist, castella-like omelet. It melts softly, spreading natural egg sweetness. More than a dessert, it serves as a graceful landing point after the sushi sequence, leaving quiet comfort in its wake.
Kampyō-maki – Dried Gourd Roll
Finally, an optional addition: kampyō-maki. The simmered gourd is balanced sweet-salty, releasing umami with each bite. The crisp roasted nori accentuates its aroma. Even as an extra, it reflects the same discipline and care, closing the meal with precision.
Impressions
In the backstreets of Yakuin, Chikamatsu reveals a counter filled with poised silence and refined beauty. The father quietly crafts each nigiri, while beside him the son shapes his own, weaving together a natural duet across generations.
Supported by the wife’s warmth and attentiveness, the stage of Chikamatsu is truly a family effort.
From seasonal shinko of Amakusa to delicate grilled fish and custards, every bite is more than technique—it is sushi filled with heart. Each visit confirms, unfailingly, why Chikamatsu is extraordinary.
It is a sushi-ya that never loses its brilliance, no matter how many times you return.
Photo taken at a special event.
Reservations & Access
Reservation Policy – Invitation Only
Chikamatsu operates strictly by introduction.
Reservations are not accepted without a referral. The following are the only accepted methods:
- Introduction from a previous guest
- Direct call from another sushi restaurant
This system emphasizes trust and connections among sushi professionals and guests, ensuring that every diner arrives with understanding and respect for the restaurant’s philosophy.
Access Information
- Address: 2-6-19 Yakuin, Chūō-ku, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka Prefecture
- Nearest Station:
- About a 4-minute walk (approx. 269 m) from Yakuin-ōdōri Station (Fukuoka City Subway Nanakuma Line)
- Bus stop: Minami-Yakuin, right nearby
- By taxi, it is convenient to request drop-off “beside Fukuoka Teishin Hospital.”
The restaurant sits quietly within a residential area. Its understated façade, the single-board hinoki counter, bonsai, and stone-paved approach, all convey the sense of a hidden retreat imbued with refined aesthetics.
Opening Hours & Closed Days (Subject to Change)
Day | Lunch | Dinner |
---|---|---|
Tuesday | – | 18:00–21:30 (L.O. 21:00) |
Wednesday–Sunday | 12:00–14:00 (L.O. 13:30) | 18:00–21:30 (L.O. 21:00) |
Monday | Closed | Closed |
Other | Occasional irregular holidays once a month | *Check official announcements |
On Sundays, dinner may be served only at an 18:00 fixed start time. As schedules may be adjusted, confirmation before visiting is recommended.
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