CONTENTS
About Tempura Koizumi
Concept
In the backstreets of Katamachi, Kanazawa, within a quietly renovated machiya townhouse, Tempura Koizumi offers refined tempura that captures the essence of Hokuriku’s seasons.
Chef Koizumi’s guiding principle is “bringing out the best of the ingredient.” This is not mere rhetoric—whether Kaga vegetables or Noto seafood, every element is treated with precision: the thickness of the batter, oil temperature, even the seconds of frying are meticulously adjusted. Each bite is designed to express aroma, temperature, and texture in a way that allows diners to fully experience the season with all five senses.
Only 100% safflower oil is used, creating a light, clean finish that never overshadows the ingredient. There is no excess—rather than dazzling displays, the beauty here is quiet, profound, and deeply resonant.
With just eight counter seats and a reservation-only policy, Koizumi serves a course that focuses solely on the essence of frying, grounded in the land and its seasons. Far from the bustle of tourist districts, this is tempura that converses with Kanazawa itself.
A unique time and flavor, found only here, slowly envelops those who visit.
About the Chef
Chef Koizumi hails from Kobe. He trained in the lineage of the venerable “Ippoh” in Osaka and Tokyo Ginza, honing his skills and aesthetic in one of Japan’s most esteemed tempura traditions, before choosing Kanazawa as the place to open his own restaurant.
Why Kanazawa? The answer is on the plate. His tempura expresses a deep respect for local culture—whether Noto’s seafood, Kaga’s vegetables, or even local sake and pottery, each is treated as an integral part of his cuisine.
His gentle demeanor and calm manner of speaking are part of the restaurant’s charm. Even first-time guests feel their tension melt away in his presence.
He remembers returning guests, and even phone calls reflect a thoughtful attentiveness. It is not just his technical mastery, but his warmth that permeates the restaurant’s atmosphere.
Each piece of tempura carries the weight of his years of training, reverence for Kanazawa, and a quiet but assured pride in placing his own name on the door.
Recognition
Hidden in the residential streets of Katamachi, Kanazawa, Tempura Koizumi was awarded one Michelin star in 2016, and two stars in 2021, affirming its status as one of Japan’s leading tempura destinations. Furthermore, it was selected for Tabelog’s “Top 100 Tempura Restaurants” in both 2023 and 2025, underscoring its enduring excellence and popularity. 
Dining Prelude
Located on a quiet residential street just off central Katamachi, “Tempura Koizumi” appears behind a wooden fence framed by greenery and a discreet sign.
Step past the noren curtain and you enter a serene entryway with earthen walls and a wooden sliding door—an atmosphere that feels more like visiting a private home than a restaurant.
Seasonal plants, moss-covered trunks, and softly filtered light prepare guests for the experience ahead. Even the understated signage reflects the restaurant’s pursuit of “beauty with restraint.”
Waiting & Reception
Inside, a straight wooden counter dominates the space—minimalist yet commanding, setting the stage for quiet focus and anticipation.
There are only eight seats, designed for intimacy and direct connection with the chef. Guests can experience the sound, aroma, and precise gestures of frying firsthand.
Natural light filters through bamboo fences and garden plantings, evoking the quiet atmosphere of a tea room. Refined yet simple touches—a washi paper placemat with the restaurant’s calligraphy, handcrafted tableware—turn even waiting into part of the experience.
Conversations with the chef across the counter unfold at a calm pace, sharpening the senses for the meal to come.
Menu Presentation
Tempura Koizumi offers a single omakase course, composed of seasonal ingredients sourced from Hokuriku—Kaga vegetables, Noto seafood, mountain herbs—each treated with meticulous adjustments in batter and oil temperature.
From sea urchin tempura wrapped in nori, to white shrimp and rare-fried scallop, every piece highlights natural aroma and texture. The meal concludes with choices like “ten-bara” or tempura chazuke, leaving a light yet deeply satisfying finish.
While the craftsmanship reflects its two Michelin stars, there is no excess—only the quiet dialogue between ingredient and technique. Each dish is a sincere embodiment of the art of frying.
Dishes Experienced
Appetizer | Chilled Junsai and Shiratama
A sharp, refreshing dish that captures the coolness of summer.
In a delicately cut glass bowl were slippery junsai (watershield), glossy mini okra, and charmingly small micro tomatoes. When bitten, the tomato skin bursts, releasing a gentle natural sweetness that contrasts beautifully with the overall acidity.
Inside was a single small, chewy shiratama rice ball, adding a soft weight and momentary stillness to the texture.
The vinegar-based acidity gave the dish a defined edge—its cool appearance belying a sharp wake-up call for the palate. Clean yet full of tension, it was a striking opening dish.
Sashimi | Aged Shiro-Amadai (Tilefish)
Early in the course came shiro-amadai aged for about two weeks. Taken from a large 4.8kg fish, the fillets were seasoned only with salt to bring out umami. Rich in fat and luster, the knife cuts revealed a supple, moist texture.
It could be enjoyed as-is, or paired with homemade irizake (a reduction of umeboshi, kombu, and sake), or with kombu salt or soy sauce. The irizake, with its faint acidity and layered umami, gently dissolved the richness of the fish, making for a superb balance.
Served with asparagus sauvage and sudachi, whose green aroma and citrus lifted the sweetness of the aged white flesh. Umami, aroma, and texture all hinted at themes that would later connect to the tempura courses.
Preparation for Tempura | Today’s Ingredients and Accompaniments
After the sashimi, the focus shifted to frying.
Placed before us was a basket of beautifully arranged ingredients for today’s tempura—zucchini, corn, string beans, yomogi-fu, and pristine seafood. Even the knife work revealed the careful handling of each item.
How each would be fried—at what temperature, with what batter, for how long—was still unknown, yet the anticipation and quiet tension steadily grew.
At the same time, accompaniments of tentsuyu, salt, grated daikon, and sudachi were set out—not to dominate, but to frame the tempura itself through subtraction, highlighting its essence.
This refined preparation, free of waste, conveyed both seriousness and respect toward the guests. From here, the quiet performance of sound and aroma began.
Kuruma Ebi (Japanese Tiger Prawn)
The curtain rose with kuruma ebi, served as both head and body together—Koizumi’s style. Fresh from the fryer, steam still rising, it was placed before us.
First came the head, eaten whole with shell. The crisp crunch released a wave of roasted aroma and deep umami, a single bite that set the tone for the course.
Then the body—its batter crisp and airy, neither too thin nor too thick, with just the right balance of fragrance and texture. The flesh inside retained a springy firmness while meltingly tender, releasing sweet shrimp flavors that lingered in quiet resonance. An ideal start, embodying the finesse of the day’s frying.
Kisu (Japanese Whiting)
Next came kisu tempura, its pale golden coat understated yet dignified. Breaking it open revealed delicate white flesh that dissolved softly on the palate.
Here, the right choice was to enjoy it with dashi rather than salt. The gentle umami and faint sweetness of the broth harmonized with the crispy batter, allowing the fish’s subtle flavor to shine.
With no unnecessary adornment, it was a pure expression of ingredient and technique, showing the sharpness of the oil and the chef’s sense of timing.
Organic String Beans and Corn
Two memorable vegetables followed. One was organic string beans grown by a 77-year-old grandmother. The other, astonishingly sweet and fragrant corn.
The string beans, enjoyed with tentsuyu, released fresh green aroma and gentle sweetness with each bite—so juicy they made you reconsider what string beans could be. A pure showcase of ingredient power and frying skill.
The corn, eaten with salt, burst with sweetness as each kernel released its juices. The salt heightened both fragrance and flavor, leaving a gentle lingering finish only tempura can create. Both dishes reflected harmony among farmer, ingredient, and fryer.
Palate Cleanser | Local Vegetable Salad
To reset the palate, a refreshing salad of local vegetables was served—tender lettuce, crisp rakkyo, and round micro tomatoes. Each ingredient stood out with its own strength, showcasing the raw vitality of the vegetables.
Especially the tomato, with intense sweetness and acidity, refreshed the senses and prepared the palate for what followed.
Aori-Ika (Bigfin Reef Squid)
Next was aori-ika aged for two weeks, treated in salt water immediately after catch. Inside its crisp coating was flesh of surprising smoothness and sheen, releasing concentrated umami with each bite.
Retaining squid’s signature bounce but never heavy, it showed harmony between aged umami and fragrant frying—a dish where meticulous preparation culminated in perfection.
Stick Senor (Tenderstem Broccoli)
Tempura of Stick Senor, a hybrid of broccoli and kailaan, featured tender stalks with gentle sweetness. The light batter, paired with dashi, drew out the vegetable’s pleasant bitterness and sweetness.
The contrast between tender stems and textured tips highlighted the vegetable’s character, while the balance of heat, thin batter, and seasoning conveyed its full essence.
Iwanori Tempura × Toyama White Shrimp × Caviar
A highlight of the evening: iwanori seaweed tempura topped with Toyama white shrimp and generous caviar. The crisp seaweed, melting shrimp sweetness, and caviar’s briny richness combined into a mouthful of the sea.
Served to be eaten with the hand, it added intimacy and a sense of occasion. The subtle fragrance of shiso flowers completed a bite that was delicate yet bold, and unforgettable.
Organic Zucchini
Zucchini grown organically, cut into thick rounds, was fried crisp and served hot with dashi. Each bite released bursting juices, highlighting its fresh crunch and natural sweetness.
Yomogi-Fu Tempura
Fresh yomogi (mugwort) wheat gluten was fried, its crisp coating contrasting with the chewy interior. Finished in dashi, the broth lifted its green aroma into the nose, leaving a memorable, soulful impression.
Tachiuo (Beltfish) Rolled with Shiso
Tachiuo beltfish wrapped in shiso and nori was fried crisp, the flesh flaking apart inside the light batter, while the herbaceous aroma filled the palate. Served with grated daikon and tentsuyu, it balanced savoriness with freshness.
Asparagus, Two Ways
First, raw asparagus with vivid crunch and sweetness, enjoyed simply with salt. Next, the same asparagus as tempura—tips with salt, stems with tentsuyu—bringing out varied aspects of flavor and texture. A clever showcase of the vegetable’s full potential.
Aji (Horse Mackerel) Tempura
Aji tempura, drizzled lightly with soy just before serving, was perfect as-is. Fried with the center still rare, it combined fluffy flesh with crisp coating and a fragrance that needed no additional seasoning.
Final Soup and Pickles
To close the tempura course, aka-dashi (red miso soup) with pickles. The steaming miso broth was deeply comforting, while crunchy cucumber and eggplant pickles refreshed the palate for the final rice course.
Choice of Three Rice Dishes
To finish, guests choose from three rice dishes. On this visit we had the tendon and the ten-bara mixed rice.
The tendon featured crisp kakiage of shrimp and edamame over fluffy rice, unified by house sauce—a classic comfort. The ten-bara, mixed deftly by the chef at the counter, combined finely chopped tempura with salt and sesame, a light yet satisfying finale.
Dessert & Finale
Soba Tea Ice Cream
Soba tea ice cream topped with roasted buckwheat kernels offered mellow sweetness and nutty fragrance, with the crunch of buckwheat adding contrast. A thoughtfully crafted dessert that extended satisfaction to the very end.
15th Anniversary Gift
In celebration of the restaurant’s 15th anniversary, guests received a commemorative tin. Its playful label—featuring the chef’s portrait and a shrimp tempura—was designed by an art student part-timer, a warm memento that reflected the restaurant’s personality and team spirit.
Summary & Impressions
The course highlights seasonal Kanazawa produce and nearby seafood, with frying techniques so precise that even aroma and residual heat feel orchestrated.
Because tempura is deceptively simple, it demands mastery of ingredients, oil, temperature, and composition—a quiet but powerful expression of the chef’s sincerity.
Though the first moments felt slightly formal, the later conversation with the chef created a natural, relaxed atmosphere. Observing his rapport with regular guests made it clear this is a place that deepens with each visit.
For me, the fire control, composition, and ingredient choices all felt perfectly aligned with my own tastes—a meal that lingers in memory long after leaving.
Reservations & Access
How to Reserve
- Advance reservations are required. Walk-ins are not accepted.
- First-time visitors may book via TORETA online or by phone.
- Returning guests may reserve by phone.
- Overseas reservations must be made via hotel or credit card concierges, or through TABLEALL. Direct calls or booking agents are not accepted.
- Booking window: up to one month in advance. Phone reservations accepted from 10:00 am.
- Cancellations/changes must be made by phone at least two days prior. Same-day changes or no-shows incur cancellation fees and may prevent future reservations.
Access
- Address: 4-34 Ikedamachi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa
- Public transport:
- Approx. 2 min walk from “Katamachi” bus stop
- Approx. 10 min walk (860m) from Hokutetsu Nomachi Station
- No parking available. Guests are advised to use nearby coin-operated parking.
Hours & Holidays
- Lunch: from 12:00 (reservation required)
- Dinner: 18:00 – last entry 20:00 (reservation required)
- Closed: irregular holidays. Please check the official website for the latest updates, including Sundays and public holidays.
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