CONTENTS
About Kataori
Concept
Kataori is a Japanese restaurant quietly nestled in the machiya district of Kanazawa.
Here, the cuisine is not about flashy techniques or theatrical presentation, but rather a form of “subtractive cooking” that deeply listens to the inherent power of the ingredients. It is a one-of-a-kind restaurant that faces the abundant nature of Hokuriku and carefully gives form to the once-in-a-lifetime encounters of each day.
Kataori’s dishes are created by listening to the voice of each ingredient, bringing out its essence without unnecessary interference.
This approach, which could be called an “aesthetic of subtraction,” is strongly reflected in every unadorned plate.
Particularly notable is the restaurant’s commitment to local sourcing.
Chef Kataori himself travels throughout Hokuriku—Noto, Himi, Suzu—visiting markets at dawn and engaging directly with fishermen and farmers to procure ingredients for the day. The fish are ikejime, vegetables are grown in open fields, and even condiments reflect “the Hokuriku of today.” The seasonal bounty of the land is elevated to the plate in its most natural form.
The space itself embodies Kanazawa’s sense of beauty.
Inside a renovated early-Showa machiya, the counter is made from “Ate,” the prefectural tree of Ishikawa, while the floor is “Tomuro stone,” the same stone used for Kanazawa Castle’s walls. Chairs are Scandinavian antiques, striking a refined harmony between Japanese tradition and modern design. As the sounds of cooking gently resonate, guests can surrender to the flow of time devoted solely to the cuisine.
Attention is also drawn to the graceful presence of Hiromi, the proprietress. Trained at the renowned ryotei Tsuruyuki and experienced in the kitchen as well, her hospitality is quiet yet assured, soft yet strong. Together with her husband, the chef, she completes the atmosphere—like a single work of art crafted by two hands.
Chef Takuya Kataori | The Craftsman Who Stays True to His Beliefs
Born in Himi, Toyama, Takuya Kataori honed his craft for 11 years at Kanazawa’s legendary Tsuruyuki, rising to the position of sous chef. Later, as head chef at Gyokusentei, he earned Michelin recognition. In 2018, he struck out on his own to open Kataori in Kanazawa.
In the early days, the restaurant struggled with low recognition and limited resources, often leaving seats unfilled.
Nevertheless, by steadfastly pursuing “trust in the ingredients and honest cooking without excess,” the restaurant gradually gained devoted fans. Today, it stands as a fully booked, reservation-only destination attracting gourmets from across Japan.
At the foundation of his cuisine lies what he calls the broth of life.
Kombu is slowly steeped for 40 hours in the sacred spring water of Fujinose, while katsuobushi from Makurazaki, Kagoshima is shaved fresh on the spot. This creates a supremely clear and elegant umami that forms the backbone of every dish.
Chef Kataori admits he continues to ask himself daily, “What does cooking mean to me?”
Rather than seeking perfection, he faces each day’s ingredients with sincerity, delivering the very best of what is possible in that moment. This humility and unwavering resolve transcend cuisine itself, leaving a deep impression on the heart.
Recognition
Kataori in Kanazawa earned two Michelin stars in the Michelin Guide Hokuriku 2021, and has continued to receive accolades including the Tabelog Gold Award (2022–2025 consecutively) and recognition in “Japan Cuisine WEST Top 100.” It has become one of Japan’s most difficult reservations, drawing gourmets nationwide, and was also named Best Restaurant of 2020 by TERIYAKI.
Guests consistently praise it as “a place worth returning to again and again” and “an unforgettable harmony of service and cuisine.” Fellow chefs also speak of being “deeply moved by how Hokuriku’s ingredients are brought to life.” Within the industry, Kataori is revered as nothing short of a pinnacle of Japanese cuisine.
Dining Prelude
Exterior & Entrance | A Crystallization of Quiet Aesthetics
In a quiet corner of Kanazawa’s Kazue-machi, where rows of machiya line the street, Kataori sits discreetly.
From the outside, it appears as a traditional townhouse blending naturally into the old capital. The bamboo lattice shutters and softly glowing sign reading “Kataori” radiate a quiet dignity.
Step through the lattice door and you enter a passageway reminiscent of a tearoom.
Earthen walls and the warmth of wood create a space that feels like a threshold between the everyday and the extraordinary.
At the far end, a single flower is placed with care—its presence reflecting the spirit of hospitality woven into every detail.
The calligraphy of “Kataori” displayed on the wall leaves a strong impression.
Its quiet strength naturally straightens your posture, preparing you for the experience to come.
It is not flamboyance but quiet refinement.
The entrance of Kataori embodies the same “aesthetic of subtraction” that defines its cuisine.
Dining Space | A Refined Quietude
The seating is at a counter imbued with warmth and Japanese aesthetic sensibility.
Natural light softly filters across the white plaster walls, highlighting a single fresh flower in subtle beauty.
The space is not lavish, but serene and dignified.
Behind the hinoki counter stretch orderly shelves and sliding doors.
There, carefully curated tableware and seasonal ornaments are discreetly arranged, creating a quiet “margin” that draws your eye between courses.
At the far end, a glass window overlooks a small inner garden.
Through the lattice, greenery and the gentle glow of a stone lantern cast shifting shadows, transporting you away from the flow of time.
Every angle offers a moment of visual poetry.
The restaurant seats only about eight guests at the counter.
Each guest faces the chef’s movements in silence, enveloped by both the tension of a special evening and the calm reassurance that softens it.
Menu Presentation
At Kataori, there is only one offering: a single omakase course.
Its composition shifts with the day’s catch and the changing of the seasons,
revealing a slightly different expression each time.
The restaurant’s philosophy is to draw out the true character of each ingredient
through the art of subtraction.
Centered on the seasonal bounty of Kanazawa and the Hokuriku region,
the course highlights local treasures such as seafood from Himi,
vegetables from Noto, and Toyama’s Koshihikari rice.
Seasonal festivals and symbols of nature are quietly reflected in the dishes,
expressing the passage of time through food.
Aperitif | A Welcome with Noto’s Sake “Chikuha”
Once seated, a hot oshibori and genmaicha ease both body and mind.
Then, Chef Kataori himself appears with a local sake from Kazuma Brewery in Noto—Chikuha.
Poured into a lacquered cup, the sake feels like a ceremonial beginning to the meal.
Light and gentle, yet carrying the assured depth of rice umami, it leaves a lingering resonance that unfolds slowly on the palate.
This cup is more than a welcome drink.
It embodies the land of Noto, the spirit of the brewers, and the philosophy Kataori seeks to express in his cuisine—
a true “introduction” to the experience ahead.
The quiet act of the chef offering the cup directly across the counter also lingers in memory—an expression of the restaurant’s deep sense of hospitality.
Starter | A Toast with Highball
Following the first sake, one might expect beer or more nihonshu—
but on this evening, the choice was a refreshing highball.
Served in a delicately patterned glass, the highball’s clear bubbles and upright elegance blended seamlessly into the Japanese setting.
The crisp effervescence seeped pleasantly into the body, already warmed by oshibori and tea—
a light and airy opening perfectly suited to the beginning of the course.
Rather than “facing” the alcohol, this was a drink that simply accompanied the flow of the cuisine—
a quiet highball, modest yet comforting, setting the evening into motion.
The Dishes
Sakizuke | Goshiki-yose – A Refreshing Plate for Tanabata
The first course was Goshiki-yose.
In honor of Tanabata in July, the five colors of tanzaku paper—blue, red, yellow, white, black—were represented in a delicate agar-agar terrine.
Brilliantly colored vegetables were suspended in a clear dashi jelly, shimmering like stars in the night sky.
Served in a gold-trimmed glass bowl on a black lacquer tray dusted with gold leaf, the presentation evoked the Milky Way.
The flavors were gentle, each vegetable’s character intact yet harmonized within the whole.
It was a dish that conveyed the richness of “tasting the season and its stories.”
Cool and festive, this sakizuke quietly announced the evening as a special occasion.
The Craft of Dashi | Freshly Shaved Katsuobushi – Sound and Scent
Between courses, an apprentice begins to shave katsuobushi at the counter’s edge.
The rhythmic “shh, shh” of the plane sliding over the block resonates in the quiet room,
and suddenly, the fragrance unique to freshly shaved bonito fills the air.
The flakes, just shaved, are gently added to a small pot of kombu stock warmed moments before—
an intimate performance where guests witness “the very moment flavor is born.”
The gestures are subtle yet refined, carrying the grace of a silent dance.
Sound, scent, and movement itself become part of the hospitality,
conveying Kataori’s essence: to strip away excess, face the ingredients honestly,
and create dishes of pure expression.
Water of Life | The Spring of Anantan, Toyama
Kataori’s cuisine is not sustained by ingredients and techniques alone—
even the “water” is chosen with uncompromising care.
The source is the sacred Anantan spring at the foot of the Tateyama range in Toyama.
Chef Kataori personally travels to the mountains to collect it by hand,
valuing its clarity and softness as the true lifeblood of his cuisine.
Originally, water from Noto was used, but after the 2024 Noto Peninsula earthquake, changes in quality were noted.
With discernment, the chef shifted to Toyama’s spring—not merely seeking “good water,”
but judging what best suited his cuisine at this moment.
This water slowly extracts kombu’s depth and joins freshly shaved bonito,
becoming the backbone of every dish at Kataori.
The resolve to “change water, not dashi” itself reveals the sincerity with which Kataori faces his ingredients.
First Dashi | A Silent Tension in One Spoon
As katsuobushi melds with kombu’s essence, the air fills with a crystalline aroma,
like the clearing of the sky after rain.
At that moment, Chef Kataori steps forward and tastes a spoonful from the pot—
a simple action, yet imbued with a quiet intensity.
He measures fire, timing, temperature, and scent entirely by bodily sense,
seeking a broth without the faintest cloudiness, a pure “core” of flavor.
A small glass of the first dashi is then served as it is.
No longer just the “foundation” of dishes, it is offered as a dish in itself,
a declaration of intent that everything begins here.
It was a profoundly beautiful starting point.
Soup Course | Noto Abalone with Tamago-dofu
Following the pure dashi, a clear broth with Noto abalone was served.
Opening the black lacquer lid released a golden steam,
revealing a plump, steamed abalone resting atop a delicate tamago-dofu.
The abalone was tender as silk, releasing deep ocean umami with each bite.
The tamago-dofu, infused with dashi, added a soft, warming contrast.
Binding everything together was that same first dashi—
its crystalline strength embracing both sea and land, light and shadow,
creating a bowl of lingering resonance.
Sashimi | From Himi, Shinminato, and Chirihama – A Trio of the Sea
Next came a trio of sashimi showcasing the Hokuriku sea,
arranged elegantly in a chilled glass dish.
First, Himi aji (horse mackerel): plump, lightly fatty, melting into savory smoothness.
Served with wasabi soy sauce—classic, yet unmatched in harmony.
Second, Shinminato aobai (whelk): thinly sliced, offering a pleasant crunch and a whisper of the tide.
Delicious on its own, but lifted further with a touch of vinegar sauce.
Third, translucent sea bass: firm yet subtle, carrying depth like a hidden broth.
Tasted with wasabi salt, vinegar, or soy, each revealed a different facet—
the vinegar left the most vivid impression.
On a separate dish, Chirihama rock oyster appeared—
large, luscious, the very definition of “milk of the sea.”
A fragrant jelly sauce enveloped it, balancing umami and acidity.
Each preparation revealed Kataori’s philosophy of “trust the ingredient, hold back the hand.”
The plate was serene and dignified, a memorable expression of sashimi.
Grilled Dish | Managatsuo (Silver Pomfret) with Shio-koji
The grilled course was Managatsuo marinated in shio-koji.
Its glossy sear released a fragrant, nutty aroma with a faint sweetness that immediately straightened one’s posture as the dish arrived.
One bite revealed the superb quality of the flesh—
rich with clean, silky fat yet never heavy.
Thick fillets flaked apart tenderly, each fiber evenly infused with heat.
The key was the chef’s precise control of fire.
The surface carried crisp fragrance while the core retained moist suppleness,
showcasing the pomfret’s delicate nature without compromise.
The shio-koji played its role with quiet mastery—
enhancing umami without overpowering, leaving no heaviness,
just a natural dissolution on the palate.
It was a true example of “subtractive grilling”—
where fire, salt, and flesh spoke directly, free of excess.
Cold Dish | Takigawa Tofu – A Milky Way on Glass
In a glass vessel evoking coolness lay Takigawa tofu, shaped like the Milky Way.
White tofu flowed in gentle curves, accented with okra slices resembling stars,
capturing Tanabata’s night sky within a bowl.
The first taste surprised with its unique texture—
smoother than silken tofu yet with a subtle bounce, a delicate “torun” softness.
A light amber dashi jelly embraced it, unfolding quietly on the palate.
A dish where season and story converge,
its quiet shimmer of the Milky Way seemed to descend onto the table itself,
easing the heart with its serene afterglow.
Main Highlight | Himi Tachiuo (Cutlassfish) “Naruto-age”
Arriving with striking beauty was a cut cross-section shaped in a whirlpool—
fresh tachiuo from Himi, caught that very morning, prepared as Naruto-age.
Silver-white flesh was rolled with shiso, lightly fried until the surface crisped,
while the interior remained airy and tender.
Each bite dissolved like clouds, releasing refined fat and gentle umami.
The batter was feather-light, nearly absent of oil.
A pinch of kombu salt heightened clarity, sharpening the fish’s fragrance.
The techniques of rolling and frying were executed with elegance, never heavy-handed—
a prime example of Kataori’s style: turning craft into lightness.
It was a dish of compositional beauty, balanced across sight, aroma, and texture.
Palate Refresher | Two Kinds of Sushi – Kodaï in Bamboo Leaf & Myoga
As an interlude, two delicate sushi were offered.
The first, baby sea bream (kodaï) wrapped in bamboo leaf,
presented in soft pink hues. The chef recommended beginning here,
with a few drops of sudachi added before eating.
The bamboo fragrance blended with the gentle fat of the fish,
sudachi tightening the flavors into a complete landscape in the mouth.
The second, myoga sushi, with vivid red pickled ginger bud enfolding seasoned rice.
Its crisp bite and refreshing aroma cleansed the palate—
a reset between the arcs of fire and broth.
These two pieces served as a quiet bridge,
preparing body and mind for the courses ahead.
Nimono | Eggplant Dengaku with Walnut Miso
In a deep crimson bowl, gently stewed eggplant dengaku appeared.
So tender it parted at the touch of chopsticks, releasing dashi with soft warmth.
A generous topping of toasted walnut miso lent richness and sweetness,
lifted by the fragrance of fresh shiso.
Rather than complex technique, it was a dish of direct honesty to the ingredient,
leaving a calm aftertaste before the next course.
Steamed Dish | New Potato Manju
Opening the lid revealed a fluffy round new potato manju in clear broth.
Its smooth texture carried the concentrated essence of potato,
wrapped in a light salted dashi sauce—familiar yet fresh.
The inspiration, the chef explained, was the memory of “jaga-butter” from summer festival stalls.
A playful yet nostalgic gesture woven seamlessly into the craft of Japanese cuisine.
Tea in the Middle | Bancha Roasted at the Counter
As the meal entered its second half, a shichirin grill was brought out.
The proprietress roasted bancha leaves in a small ceramic pan before the guests’ eyes.
A sweet, toasty aroma rose with the crackle of the leaves, softening the air itself.
A cup of freshly roasted houjicha refreshed the palate and spirit,
a symbolic gesture of Kataori’s refined care—
not “pouring” tea, but finishing it in the moment.
Rice Course | Toyama Koshihikari with Himi Beef Shigure-ni + Five “Seconds”
The main rice was Toyama-grown Koshihikari, cultivated by the chef’s father.
Freshly steamed, the grains glistened, releasing gentle sweetness as they were chewed.
It was served with Himi beef shigure-ni, simmered with ginger into rich, savory sweetness,
alongside a miso soup laden with shijimi clams.
Then came the “okawari” round—five different rice variations, a delight in itself:
- ① Aji Zuke-don: marinated horse mackerel with herbs, refreshing and light.
- ② Tachiuo Tempura-don: freshly fried cutlassfish atop rice, crisp and tender.
- ③ Ume Chazuke with Iron-pot Crispy Rice: smoky okoge added by hand, mingling with sour plum and dashi.
- ④ Aji Tsukimi-don: marinated aji topped with egg yolk and wasabi, rich yet mellow.
- ⑤ Tamago Kake Gohan with Honkarebushi: a raw egg over rice with abundant freshly shaved katsuobushi—
a simple yet ultimate bowl.
The joy of rice, dashi, and thoughtful care turned even “seconds” into a highlight—
a moment of playful abundance.
Dessert & Finale
Sweet | Lotus Root Mochi
Soft, trembling lotus root mochi closed the savory courses.
Its natural stickiness was refined into a smooth texture like kuzu,
carrying deep molasses-like sweetness with a touch of acidity—
a dessert that lingered without heaviness.
After the Meal | Matcha
Finally, a bowl of freshly whisked matcha—its glossy foam carrying mild bitterness and faint sweetness.
A quiet conclusion, smoothing the memory of the meal into serene closure.
Impressions
Hidden in Kanazawa, Kataori offers a counter where silence and dignity permeate.
Time itself seems to slow, enveloping guests in a special air.
From the oshibori pressed warmly to the back of the neck,
to dishes like Himi’s tachiuo Naruto-age with kombu salt,
and the cascade of rice variations centered on Toyama Koshihikari—
each detail embodied humility and precision.
The meal ended with lotus root mochi and a bowl of matcha,
maintaining harmony of warmth, aroma, and touch until the final moment.
Even the water—sourced by hand from Anantan spring—spoke of unwavering sincerity.
Kataori is not just delicious—it sharpens the senses,
a place where cuisine quietly speaks,
leaving a memory etched in all five senses.
Reservations
Kataori is reservation-only, with both lunch and dinner served as set courses.
Online booking is available exclusively via OMAKASE.
Membership registration is required, and a handling fee of ¥390 per seat applies at the time of booking.
Reservations are limited to once per quarter, and the opening dates for booking slots are irregular.
Cancellation Policy
- From 3 days prior: 50% cancellation fee
- Same day: 100% cancellation fee
Access
Address: 3-36 Namiki-machi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture
By bus: Approx. 7 minutes on foot from Hokutetsu Bus “Hashibacho” stop
Kataori stands in a quiet street along the scenic Asanogawa River (locally known as “Onna-gawa”), housed within a traditional machiya townhouse.
Hours & Regular Holidays
- Lunch: 11:30–14:00 (based on multiple reliable sources such as Tabelog)
- Dinner: 17:00–20:00 (may start at 19:00 during special seasons such as matsutake)
- Closed: Irregular holidays (not strictly fixed to Sundays or national holidays; sometimes open on weekends). Checking in advance is recommended.
Another Way to Dine at the Hard-to-Book “Kataori”
Kataori is known nationwide as one of the most difficult restaurants to secure a reservation.
Bookings are accepted exclusively through the online platform OMAKASE,
and it is not unusual for all seats to be taken immediately when reservations open.
Alongside this, there exists another pathway to visit Kataori, distinct from general reservations:
the members-only service Foodies Prime.
This is an invitation-only private gourmet community,
where members host special dining gatherings.
Other registered members may apply to join these events, creating opportunities to share a table at sought-after restaurants.
Kataori occasionally offers seats within Foodies Prime,
providing a rare “second chance” apart from the usual OMAKASE reservations.
Of course, participation is not open to everyone.
One must first be invited by an existing member,
and even then, applying for a seat at a dining event requires both timing and luck.
Yet for a restaurant where reservations are so limited,
such opportunities born from community connections are certainly worth knowing.
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