CONTENTS
About respiración (Respiración)
Concept
Located near Omicho Market in Kanazawa, respiración (Respiración) is a Spanish restaurant created from the renovation of a 140-year-old machiya townhouse.
The name means “breath” in Spanish, and the restaurant offers a modern Spanish dining experience themed around harmony—between cuisine and space, between nature and people.
Its concept is “dishes to be enjoyed as naturally as breathing.”
In a tranquil space where even background music is absent, the temperature, aroma, and sound of each dish stand out vividly, creating what can only be described as a dining experience of “breathing with all five senses.”
The cuisine makes generous use of seafood and vegetables from Noto and Kanazawa, along with home-grown vegetables and house-fermented seasonings, showcasing a deep commitment to ingredients.
In 2023, its sustainable initiatives were recognized with a Michelin Green Star.
The exterior retains the traditional Japanese charm of a machiya, while the interior exudes Spanish sophistication. As a stage where old and new coexist, the setting itself highlights the presence of the cuisine—another form of “breath” unique to this restaurant.
About the Chefs
respiración is led by three chefs who are deeply familiar with both Spanish and Japanese culinary cultures. With different personalities and career backgrounds, they combine their sensibilities to put their soul into every dish.
Chef Tatsuro Ume
Born in Ishikawa Prefecture. He began his training in Japanese cuisine at the age of 21, and at 27 moved to Barcelona, Spain. After honing his skills at the Michelin-starred restaurant “SAUC,” he returned to Japan to bring a fresh Spanish culinary breeze to Kanazawa.
He personally visits producers in Noto, his home region, to deepen his understanding of ingredients, creating original dishes that fuse local products with Spanish techniques.
Chef Keisuke Yagi
After 12 years of training in Tokyo, he gained experience at the three-Michelin-starred “ABaC” in Spain.
With his free-spirited creativity and strong sense of composition, he plays a key role in shaping respiración’s menu. His style is characterized by delicate, light finishes that incorporate Spanish essence into unique ingredient pairings.
Chef Yusuke Kitagawa
A versatile chef with experience spanning Japanese, French, Italian, and Spanish cuisines.
Currently, he oversees the launch of the sister restaurant “comer,” extending respiración’s philosophy into the casual bar culture of the city.
Together, the three chefs, each with their unique background, collaborate to pioneer a new frontier: “Modern Spanish rooted in Kanazawa.”
Like breathing in unison, they embody the very name respiración.
Restaurant Recognition
Located near Kanazawa’s Omicho Market in a 140-year-old renovated machiya townhouse, respiración (Respiración) is a Spanish restaurant.
Its creative approach and highly refined course compositions have earned acclaim both in Japan and abroad, making it a celebrated destination with numerous awards.
Most notably, it was awarded two Michelin stars (★★) in the Michelin Guide Hokuriku 2021 Special Edition.
This recognition, given only to restaurants with “exceptional cuisine,” is held by just a handful of establishments in the Hokuriku region, clearly demonstrating respiración’s excellence and uniqueness.
From its spatial design and service to its approach to ingredients, every detail reflects a finely tuned philosophy, solidifying its presence as a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Additionally, it has received high praise from the prestigious French restaurant guide Gault & Millau.
A score of 16.5 out of 20 and a ranking of “3 toques (chef’s hats)” place respiración among the top tier of modern gastronomy in Japan.
In 2025, the three chefs jointly received Gault & Millau’s “Tomorrow’s Grand Chef Award,” officially recognizing them as part of the next generation of culinary leaders.
On domestic platforms, respiración’s reputation also stands out.
It has won the Tabelog Award Silver for four consecutive years since 2022 (as of 2025).
In addition, it was selected as one of the “Tabelog Top 100 Spanish Restaurants 2024,” cementing its status not only in Hokuriku but also on the national stage.
Dining Prelude
Exterior & Entrance
Nestled quietly near the center of Kanazawa and close to Omicho Market, the restaurant is housed in a standalone building.
At first glance, its wooden lattice façade preserves the charm of traditional machiya architecture. A discreet golden sign plate inscribed with respiración blends seamlessly into the scenery.
This 140-year-old machiya has been carefully renovated into a space that embodies both Japanese and Western aesthetics, history and innovation.
Slide open the heavy wooden door, and a corridor with a lattice ceiling bathed in natural light draws you in, enveloping you in a sense of serenity.
A silent space, polished wood textures, subtle lighting.
It is an introduction that resets your breath, preparing you for the dining experience that is about to begin.
Step by step, it gently shifts your mindset into the extraordinary, a quiet prologue to the meal.
Exterior design is simple yet refined.
Waiting & Reception
Upon entering, the first thing you see is the open kitchen.
Chefs breathe in sync as they prepare, while staff guide you to the waiting room at the back.
This area was newly established during a major renovation in 2023.
At its center sits a sculpted single slab counter with undulating lines, resembling natural terrain.
Soft lighting traces its contours, changing with time, giving the wood a living, breathing presence.
The first refreshment served here is a chilled corn tea.
Far from ordinary, this special brew is made from carefully roasted corn husks and silk, extracting both smokiness and sweetness.
Its rustic yet refined aroma, with gentle smokiness and natural sweetness, leaves a memorable impression.
This cup soothes the fatigue of travel or heat, gently resetting your breath and opening your senses—a quiet prologue before the meal.
More than just a waiting area, this space is a symbolic “breathing preparation room” for respiración.
It provides a moment of gentle transition from the everyday to the extraordinary, like the prologue to a story.
Dining Space
After taking a breath in the waiting room, guests are guided to the newly created dining space, transformed during the 2023 renovation.
Once a Buddhist altar room, it has been boldly reborn as a stage perfectly suited to respiración’s worldview.
Inside, the first thing you notice is the wooden lattice ceiling design running across the room.
The rhythm of its lines gives depth to the space, contrasted by calm black walls.
From the windows, natural light filters in to reveal a small garden, creating a sense of openness that connects indoors and outdoors.
Tables are crafted from solid wood, their warmth highlighted.
On top, a menu embossed with the logo in black letterpress rests neatly on a white napkin, like a stage awaiting performance.
With no excessive decoration or music, the beauty of space and the play of light naturally draw focus to the cuisine.
Staff move quietly yet precisely, attentive to timing and distance.
Even before the dishes arrive, it is clear this is a stage devoted to hospitality through food.
Menu Presentation
At the table, a menu book with a deep ink-black cover and golden foil-stamped “respiración” awaits, along with a single white sheet inside.
On it is the lighthearted Spanish greeting, “Hola ¿Qué tal?” (“Hello, how are you?”), together with the date of the visit, July 3, 2025.
As this simple opening suggests, respiración’s menu presentation is about conveying atmosphere rather than information.
The course structure is outlined on just a single sheet in minimalist typography, listing only ingredient names with deliberate brevity.
This leaves room for anticipation of “what will come” in each dish, a beautiful expression of emptiness.
It is not something to be read in detail, but rather a list that gradually gains meaning as each course arrives.
Even here, the rhythms of “breath” and “pauses in flavor” that respiración values are subtly expressed.
Starter Drink
Before the first course, the drink I ordered was a non-alcoholic fermented tea.
Wanting something light for lunchtime, I chose “KAHO,” crafted by Romurage in Hakusan, Ishikawa Prefecture.
Made from gently roasted tea leaves, this cup is characterized by aromas and acidity drawn out through fermentation.
Its pale amber liquid, when poured into a glass, evokes the elegance of wine and harmonizes seamlessly with both Japanese and Western tables.
Its aroma carries nutty and roasted tea-like nuances, while the flavor unfolds with a rounded acidity and slight astringency that quickly recede.
Though seemingly simple, it beautifully relaxes the tension before the meal.
The way the bottle was presented with care also reflected a mindful approach to beverages and attentive service.
It was the perfect match for respiración’s quiet opening.
Dishes Tasted
Impact Sweet Shrimp
The course at respiración begins with this dish—
a long-standing signature specialty since the restaurant’s opening: “Amuse of Sweet Shrimp with Gold Leaf.”
Though bite-sized and delicate in appearance, it condenses within it the essence of Ishikawa’s bounty and the chefs’ philosophy.
The star is freshly caught sweet shrimp from Ishikawa. Its head miso is carefully extracted, transformed into a thin sheet, and laid on top like a lid—a labor-intensive preparation.
Inside, the shrimp meat is gently marinated in house-made shio-koji. The fermentation accentuates the shrimp’s natural sweetness and silky texture.
At the base lies a crucial foundation: a smoky tart crust made from the shells and roe of the shrimp.
Its crisp texture delivers minerality and smoke, unfolding like a sea breeze in the mouth.
The finishing touch of gold leaf is not mere decoration but a statement that this amuse is respiración’s “calling card.”
Beauty, sense of place, fermentation—the restaurant’s axis—and precise construction: all encapsulated in a single bite.
It was truly the “first breath” of the experience, a flawless prologue.
Ayu – Wild Ayu from Shogawa, Toyama with Fermented Onion Sauce
The second course featured wild ayu from Shogawa, Toyama.
About 15 cm long, the live fish was presented in a clear pitcher, a striking performance that left its beauty imprinted on the eyes.
Just before serving, the ayu was deep-fried and brushed with house-made ayu fish sauce prepared the previous year.
The crispy aroma combined with the fermented depth created a flavor that was delicate yet profound.
The sauce to accompany it was fermented new onion juice blended with lime.
Its gentle sweetness and acidity harmonized beautifully with the matured flavor of the fish sauce, rounding out the dish.
Garnishes included pickled gourd and bracken recalling spring, plum, and several herbs.
Each element carried its own acidity or bitterness, layering delicately over the ayu’s fat and fermented nuances to create a refreshing harmony.
By layering fermentation and acidity over the rustic character of river fish, this dish visually captured the passage of season and place.
A true example of respiración’s way of “tasting time.”
Zucchini ① – Baba Farm Zucchini with Wild Mugwort Flan
Next was a green composition glistening in a chilled glass.
Its striking layered beauty was centered around zucchini from Baba Farm in Kanazawa, offering a refreshing presentation typical of respiración.
The upper layer was a silky flan of zucchini and wild yomogi (Japanese mugwort).
The soft sweetness of summer vegetables mingled with the gentle bitterness of mugwort, spreading a complex, wild aroma in its cool texture.
Floating above were water shield (junsai), a seasonal delicacy of early summer.
Their slippery texture contrasted beautifully with the flan’s softness, enhancing coolness and mouthfeel.
At the bottom lay a sauce of broth from Noto wakame combined with kombucha (fermented tea).
A gentle fermented acidity, along with mineral tones from seaweed, added a refined complexity to the whole.
Though subtle in salinity, the design ensured lingering umami and fermented depth.
Natural colors, contrasts of texture, and the essence of time through fermentation came together in this dish—
a quintessential expression of respiración’s “quiet experimental spirit.”
Zucchini ② – Zucchini “Marinated” with Sake Lees & Gorgonzola, with Turkey
Following the refreshing flan, another zucchini dish appeared—this time a warm plate showcasing the art of maturation and cooking.
The zucchini was coated in sake lees from Yoshida Brewery on the Tedori River and Gorgonzola cheese, then left to rest for three days before cooking, an approach reminiscent of traditional nukazuke fermentation.
The gentle sweetness of sake lees and the subtle saltiness and richness of blue cheese penetrated the zucchini, releasing complex aromas when cooked.
Though rustic in appearance, it held within it a story of time and care.
On top rested flower zucchini stuffed with minced turkey from Noto.
Its wild yet delicate meat quality harmonized with the fermented aroma of the zucchini, creating a strong yet pure layering of flavors.
Beneath it was a sauce of asparagus purée.
Its vivid green added visual freshness and served as a solid foundation for the zucchini and turkey.
An expression true to respiración’s style, layering time and effort into ingredients.
It was a dish where the very process stood out as part of the culinary artistry.
Second Drink – Royal Blue Tea “HANA”
Midway through the course, I ordered Royal Blue Tea “HANA”.
Made with premium jasmine tea from Fujian, this bottled tea released a refined floral fragrance reminiscent of white blossoms as it was poured.
Its appearance was a beautiful amber hue, almost like rosé wine.
The palate, however, was soft, with light floral notes, restrained sweetness, and a clear, transparent finish.
As it was lunchtime, I chose to keep alcohol light.
Having such non-alcoholic options available was a delight, offering the freedom to pair drinks with food in one’s own way.
Pasta – Red Squid with Tomato, Served Cold
The next dish was red squid landed at Kanazawa Port, sliced finely like fettuccine to create a cold “pasta” interpretation.
Only the tender, sweet portion of the flesh was used, giving a delicate texture and lingering umami unlike ordinary squid.
Two sauces accompanied it:
One was a light, tangy sauce made with yellow tomatoes from Ueda Farm in Toyama. The other was a creamy butternut squash sauce from Kanazawa.
Together, their different qualities of sweetness highlighted the contours of the squid.
Topped with white shrimp from Toyama, it added a toasted note to the smooth texture of squid.
On the side was a clear gazpacho infused with lemon balm, also made with Ueda Farm’s tomatoes.
Appearing almost like white wine, its refreshing lemon-vervaine aroma subtly elevated the sweetness of the squid, functioning less as a soup and more as an aromatic complement.
Heta-Murasaki Eggplant with Tsukinowa Bear Ragù
For the main dish, a powerful yet delicate composition featuring “Heta-Murasaki Eggplant” from Hiyoshi Farm near Yuwaku Onsen.
Roasted whole with the calyx intact, the eggplant melted to a silky texture when cut, offering surprising smoothness, sweetness, and a gentle smokiness.
Stuffed inside was a ragù made from Tsukinowa bear belly and Noto beef, their fats and flavors harmonizing exquisitely.
The result was a balance of wild depth and refined elegance, telling a story of both land and ingredient.
Encircling the dish was a white foam, created from eggplant juice whipped into air.
Every detail aimed to maximize the essence of the produce itself, resulting in a dish where eggplant was protagonist, yet seamlessly intertwined with the strong presence of meat.
Homemade Campagne with Doburoku × Goat Milk Fermented Cream
Between courses came two types of house-baked campagne, baked fresh every morning.
One was made with 15 varieties of grains and natural yeast, rich in aroma and texture.
The other incorporated pumice (grape pomace) delivered from Says Farm Winery in Toyama, offering a subtle fruitiness beneath its toasty flavor. This bread was also offered for seconds.
Served alongside was house-made cream fermented for 20 hours with doburoku (unrefined sake) and goat milk.
Creamy yet tangy, with the gentle character of goat milk, it paired perfectly with the breads’ aromas.
These breads stood out as dishes in their own right, feeling complete as part of the course.
Noto White Rockfish “Pil Pil” with Charred Yuzu
A modern take on the Basque classic “Pil Pil.”
The fish used was white rockfish from Noto, Ishikawa.
Its flesh was gently cooked to remain moist, while the skin was grilled until crisp.
The instant bite revealed a sharp contrast: smokiness and umami layered perfectly together.
“Pil Pil” refers to the emulsified sauce made from fish collagen, water, and oil.
Here, the sauce was enriched with the gentle sweetness of cauliflower and foam infused with green yuzu,
creating an airy aftertaste that softly enveloped the dish.
Most striking of all was the finishing touch of charred yuzu.
Green yuzu was slowly carbonized in a low-temperature oven for about eight hours,
adding a subtle bitterness and complex aroma that deepened the dish in multiple layers.
A delicate yet aromatic composition that captivated through fragrance.
Paired with a bottled tea “GREEN or BLUE dionysus,” based on Taiwanese high-mountain oolong, fermented and aged.
Palate Cleanser Before the Main
Before the main course, a refreshing palate cleanser was served.
It featured a whole fruit tomato from Ueda Farm in Noto, also used in the earlier gazpacho.
Marinated in sherry vinegar and ginger, the tomato carried brightness and clarity.
Finished with salted rose petals, it carried a faint floral note.
Ezo Venison Loin
The main dish was venison loin from Hokkaido’s Ezo deer.
Thick and gently cooked, it offered both strength and refined tenderness.
The sauce was made from vegetable trimmings used throughout the course, expressing a philosophy of circulation and sustainability.
Playful creativity also shone in the accompaniments:
– Yellow beet purée from Takano Farm in Noto
– Kaga futo cucumber, nukazuke-fermented, perfumed with forest gin soda, with coriander seeds
– Chutney of dried persimmon (anpo-gaki) and apple
– A cake of grilled corn and potato, topped with fried corn silk
The venison’s rich depth was layered with elements of the land—fermentation, preservation, and fragrance—becoming a main dish to remember.
Paella of Rock Oyster
One of respiración’s highlights: the finale paella.
This version featured wild rock oysters grown slowly over 5–6 years as the centerpiece.
Plump oysters, sliced and generously layered on top.
The rice absorbed the oyster broth, achieving a dense yet balanced texture, never heavy.
A smooth alioli added creaminess, while grilled lemon squeezed over the top lent brightness and smokiness.
Sea flavors and fire came together in this paella—a true respiración signature.
Arroz Caldoso
A delightful surprise not listed on the menu:
a Spanish-style “arroz caldoso” (soupy rice dish), lavishly prepared with white gas shrimp freshly landed at Kanazawa Port.
The melting texture of the shrimp and its rich umami permeated the rice, spreading gently like a soup.
Deep yet balanced, it left me smiling with every spoonful.
Inserted at just the right moment, it reflected respiración’s playful spirit and hospitality.
Desserts & Finale
Watercress Ice Cream
The first dessert was watercress ice cream.
Made with fresh, unheated watercress from Fukui Prefecture, it had a wild aroma and faint spiciness, resulting in a vivid green ice cream.
Underneath lay a crumble of brown sugar for crunch, apple compote for gentle sweetness, and a mousse infused with pine nuts, alongside a nutty oil. Together, they created a striking contrast of vegetal freshness and richness.
Though a dessert, it felt almost like an avant-garde vegetable appetizer—
a bold beginning to respiración’s final act.
To close, a colorful herbal tea was served.
That day, 13 different herbs were prepared, including lemongrass, fennel buds, cinnamon basil, and chamomile.
Blended according to each guest’s condition and mood, it made for a fitting conclusion to the meal.
The teaware evoked the playful design of Gaudí’s Park Güell, delighting not only the palate but also the eyes—a thoughtful touch until the very end.
Noto Cedar Bavarois
The next dessert was inspired by a sweet from Valencia, Spain.
Its star was oil infused with the aroma of Noto cedar. The deep woody fragrance overlapped with matcha and milk bavarois, accented by sour cream, evoking the freshness of a forest.
Shaved kiwi ice and crispy brown sugar tuile added chill and toasty notes, uniting sweetness, acidity, and freshness.
A dessert that encapsulated both the land and the season—truly embodying respiración, “breath.”
Petit Fours
Four bite-sized sweets concluded the meal.
First, a chilled dessert made with blueberries from a farm in Shiga, topped with fine-cut kombu (from Noto) simmered in juice—an exquisite balance of sweet and salty.
Another was a potato-based bite accented with Noto gin and house-made lemon, rustic yet fragrant.
A small tart topped with jelly made from concentrated black cherries carried an intense sweet-sour depth.
And lastly, a fun cube-shaped fruit jelly sweet.
Though modest in size, each piece drew out the individuality of its ingredients, a fitting conclusion to the course.
Summary & Impressions
Returning to respiración after six years.
The scenery and flavors I thought I remembered felt completely renewed.
Beyond the technical perfection of the dishes, what moved me most was the rhythm flowing through the entire space—like breathing itself.
The renovated machiya carried with it the quiet accumulation of time, and spaces such as the waiting room and dining area (once a Buddhist altar room) extended that sense of depth directly into the dining experience.
Every dish conveyed intention and respect for the ingredients—not through explanation, but by atmosphere itself.
Though Spanish techniques were employed, what resonated was unmistakably the terroir of Hokuriku: the faces of its producers and the aromas of its land.
Never overly assertive, yet always anchored with quiet strength.
Together with the warm hospitality and subtle, considerate gestures of the staff,
everything resonated, reminding me of the true essence of what a restaurant can be.
It was more than technique or presentation—meaning was embedded into every corner of the place itself.
It felt like rediscovering the restaurant anew, an irreplaceable experience despite being a “revisit.”
Reservations & Access
How to Reserve
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Reservations are required. Bookings can be made by phone or online.
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Phone Reception Hours: 9:00–11:00 AM / 3:00–5:00 PM
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Online reservations are also available (options include selecting non-alcoholic pairings, etc.) via TableCheck or OMAKASE.
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Important Notes:
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Both lunch and dinner begin at the same time for all guests, so please arrive at least 15 minutes early.
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If you have multiple allergies or dietary restrictions, you must notify the restaurant when booking (accommodation may not always be possible).
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Cancellation policy is strict: immediately after booking = 5%, 14 days before = 50%, 7 days before = 100%.
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Access
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Address: 67 Bakuro-machi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa
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Nearest station / transport:
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1-minute walk from Hokutetsu Bus stop “Musashigatsuji / Omicho Market”
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15 minutes on foot or 5 minutes by taxi from JR Kanazawa Station
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Located right by Omicho Market, offering excellent accessibility.
Hours & Closed Days
Lunch: 12:00 start (doors open at 11:30)
Dinner: 18:00 start (doors open at 17:30)
Closed mainly on Mondays, about 6 times per month.
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