CONTENTS
About Restaurant Takatsu (Takatsu)
Concept
“Restaurant Takatsu,” housed on a small hill in Shimonoseki in a Western-style mansion from the Taishō era, is a gastronomic space where the historic facade—registered as a Tangible Cultural Property—coexists with a minimal, modern interior.
The L-shaped counter has only eight seats and faces an open kitchen. The chefs’ live cooking and attentive service merge into a multi-sensory experience. Within the inorganic textures, a natural floral arrangement placed at the center adds warmth and makes the dishes stand out with clarity.
The cooking style is “neither French nor Italian,” built on the concept of drawing out the essence of ingredients by the shortest route. While using local seafood and vegetables, the cuisine is composed freely, unbound by genre. It shuns fantasy and avoids breaking down ingredients, instead highlighting savor and afterglow.
The wine and sake selection is extensive—primarily France, with South Africa, Australia, and Japan also well represented. Several local sakes from Yamaguchi are on hand, making for broad pairing possibilities.
Dinner is tasting menu only and reservation-only. Located five minutes by car from Shimonoseki Station with views of the sea, the space flexibly suits many occasions—from time with someone special to wine gatherings.
About Chef Kenichi Takatsu
Kenichi Takatsu (born 1983, Yamaguchi Prefecture) trained seriously in both French and Italian cuisine in Fukuoka after high school, then worked at New York’s popular “Basta Pasta” and as sous-chef at Fukuoka’s “La Maison de la Nature Goh.”
He once stepped away from kitchens to help with his parents’ carpentry work, but was drawn back to the craft of a true artisan and returned to cooking. Carrying both his feelings for his hometown of Shimonoseki and his training experiences, he opened “Restaurant Takatsu” locally in March 2017.
He champions “the shortest path to an ingredient’s appeal,” valuing the fusion of creativity and local produce—think an amuse of dried persimmon and foie gras in a dorayaki style, or sawara finished with garland chrysanthemum sauce. His hallmark is to keep decoration to a minimum and sharpen the innate flavor and texture of the ingredient itself.
His cuisine doesn’t fit neatly into French or Italian, but is non-genre and original. Each plate conveys his sensibility while reflecting the bounty of Shimonoseki’s seafood.
Accolades
“Restaurant Takatsu” is a rare presence within Yamaguchi Prefecture and has steadily earned trust from domestic and international guides. Notably, it has been featured in Gault&Millau for six consecutive years from 2020 to 2025. In the 2025 edition it received 3 toques (15/20), the only 3-toque restaurant in Yamaguchi, with high praise for its handling of ingredients and creative expression.
It has also been chosen multiple times for the “Tabelog French WEST Top 100,” and won Bronze at the 2025 Tabelog Award, cementing its standing within West Japan’s gastronomy.
Without declaring itself French or Italian, the cuisine embodies Chef Takatsu’s philosophy of “bringing out ingredients by the shortest route.” In the minimal space, the contours of each dish resonate more distinctly. Beyond handling local produce, his sense shines in the selection of wine and local sake; the lingering harmony created by their interplay is another reason for the high regard.
It is not merely a fine local restaurant; even on a national scale it has the persuasiveness of a “must-visit.”
Dining Prelude
Exterior & Entrance
Restaurant Takatsu occupies part of a more-than-century-old former building on a hill in Shimonoseki. A section of the “Hachiya Building,” designated as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property, has been renovated to create a unique space where history and contemporary sensibility coexist.
Weathered exterior walls, exposed cross-sections of red brick, and a discreet brass logo plate create a facade that feels casually unadorned yet carefully composed. The pared-back approach sharpens visitors’ senses.
The entrance also leaves an impression: instead of the building’s original front door, you slip through a recessed doorway in the wall. The threshold blurs everyday and extraordinary, building anticipation for the meal ahead.
The soft “Takatsu” signage contrasts beautifully with the building’s ruggedness. As with the chef’s cuisine, the space is composed to honor the intrinsic character of the materials.
Dining Space
Step inside and you’re wrapped in a hard, quiet calm—gritty walls and a steel-like counter make a striking impression. There are only eight seats at an L-shaped counter. In the open kitchen before you, Chef Takatsu assembles dishes with calm precision. Every motion is a visual performance, and the lack of barriers between chef and guest speaks to the essence of the restaurant.
There’s neither background music in excess nor decorative flourish. Beams and pipes remain exposed overhead; floors and tables are left as raw materials. In daylight the gentle brightness, and at night the lighting’s shadow and contrast, both make the food stand out more crisply.
Art on the walls is extremely minimal. The symbolic “ichi (one)” logo embodies focused attention within open space. Sit down and you’ll find a personalized menu set at your place, signaling that this is already “time prepared just for someone.”
Inside and outside of the counter meet at a single point—food—and connect inseparably. Here the entire space functions as “the backdrop to the plate,” with nothing superfluous.
Menu Presentation
A single card is placed in front of you. Its texture feels like hand-made paper; the moment you hold it, you sense something has begun. The text is small and tidy: not dish names, but a list of ingredients. Each item feels inevitable, yet the lineup reads like poetry that invites interpretation.
It opens with “corn,” then continues with paprika, watermelon, medai, new ginger, kajiki, and passion fruit. Sweetness and acidity; fire and chill; raw and fermented—the flow moves like waves of sensation rather than a formal structure.
Softly embedded are local ingredients like soft-shell turtle, Yasuoka green onion, and venison from Fukasaka, but the assertion remains modest. The sounds and textures of the ingredient names melt quietly into the air of the room.
Near the end come “melon,” “coconut,” “chocolate,” and “banana,” yet even here sweetness isn’t declared outright—ample white space remains.
There’s no reading aloud and no explanation. You simply hold the card and wait, imagining what will come. That waiting becomes, in effect, the restaurant’s “first course.”
Starter Drink
The first pour after being seated was Champagne served in a slender flute.
The choice was Champagne Aurore de Vallon Brut—as the name suggests, evoking “dawn in the valley.” Fine, restrained bubbles rise from the base of the glass. The balance of dry mineral and generous fruit hinted at the direction of the cuisine.
A light toastiness lifts as you tip the glass, with a faint citrus nuance behind it. It doesn’t overstate itself; rather, it leaves “room for what’s to come.” Neither heavy nor flimsy, it traces the contours of the ingredients.
This Champagne brings focus and quiet more than festivity. Not a flashy overture, but an opening like a deep breath—and with that feeling, the first plate arrived naturally.
Dishes We Tasted
Chilled Corn Soup with Corn Ice Cream, finished with Truffle
The opening dish was a chilled soup made from corn harvested that very morning. At the center rests a scoop of corn ice cream; the temperature contrast sharpens the profile of sweetness. The presentation is simple and quiet, yet the moment the spoon goes in, layers of aroma and texture bloom at once.
On top lies a generous shaving of Australian black truffle. In the cold soup its aroma is contained, then opens gently with warmth on the palate. The corn’s dense sweetness interlaces with the truffle’s earthy tones and faint bitterness, adding depth to sweetness that could otherwise become monotone.
Each sip reveals a restrained design that never pushes ingredients too far forward and a careful layering of aromas. Together they made for a quiet yet decisive start.
Paprika Mousse with Watermelon Gazpacho, topped with Marinated Spear Squid and Shiro-Uri
It looks like a cool bowl of “soup,” but as soon as it hits the palate, multiple layers rise up—an unforgettable dish.
At the base is a silky mousse made from paprika, enveloping the tongue with paprika’s unique mix of sweetness and green notes. Resting on it are locally caught spear squid and shiro-uri (white cucumber) lightly marinated with lime. The slightly crisp textures and measured lime acidity align beautifully with the mousse below.
The whole is covered with a chilled gazpacho based on watermelon. Using watermelon instead of tomato creates both a dessert-like illusion and a firmly savory balance. A few final drops of fragrant oil extracted from geranium leaves lend a delicate floral lift that lets air flow between sweetness and acidity.
Acid, sweetness, aroma, crunch—none dominates, and none is vague. Clear structure meets playful sourcing; a dish that left a strong personal impression.
Tartare of Medai (Japanese Butterfish) and Whelk, with Marinated Round Okra & New Ginger, topped with Dashi Jelly
Here the sea, the field, and delicate dashi overlap.
At the base is a tartare centered on medai, joined by whelk and new ginger. The creamy white fish, the chew of whelk, and the ginger’s heat and aroma appear in turn, creating layered resonance within a subtle profile.
Laid over it are local round okra marinated with new ginger, adding viscosity, a gentle green note, and a ginger outline for freshness. The whole is veiled in a umami-rich dashi jelly, a translucent layer that gathers the components and traps their aromas.
The purple blossoms used at the finish don’t shout color; they stage “quiet.” Neither color nor flavor is overly lively, yet the elements cross in layers—aroma, viscosity, spring, chill—loosening in sequence.
It felt like capturing a gentle seasonal shift in a single bowl.
White Wine: “Poppelvej – Irresistible Impulse 2022”
After the third, cool seafood course came a glass of white.
Poured was Poppelvej “Irresistible Impulse 2022.”
Made in South Australia by Danish winemaker Uffe Schmit, this natural wine is assembled each year by fruit and impulse rather than fixed varieties or methods. True to its name, “Irresistible Impulse” feels like bottling sensibility and intuition directly.
A slightly cloudy golden hue. Swirl, and soft notes of white peach, chamomile, and pear emerge; the palate is silky. A touch of volatile lift and a whisper of residual sugar blend seamlessly with seafood umami and dashi nuances.
Its outline is gentle, yet the finish has clear direction; the wine shows its best in relation to food. It felt less like a pairing and more like “wine as part of the dish.”
Cured “Prosciutto-Style” Kajiki (Billfish) with Yogurt & Onion Kōji Sauce, Kolinky and Passion Fruit
The main element, which at first glance could be mistaken for meat, is kajiki (billfish) firmly cured in salt to a ham-like texture. It stays moist while the maturation concentrates umami; each bite releases gentle salinity and rich fat.
Beneath it lies a sauce of strained yogurt blended with onion kōji. The soft acidity of fermentation and the sweet nuance of onion calmly embrace the kajiki’s saltiness.
On top are paper-thin slices of kolinky (a raw-eating pumpkin), scattered with a sauce of passion-fruit pulp and seeds, adding crisp bite and bright, floral acidity.
Dotted throughout are fennel flowers. Their gentle perfume adds depth, harmonizing sea, fermentation, fruit, and blossom into a single landscape.
Rather than merely combining ingredients, the chef calibrates each element’s “state” and “distance,” yielding a delicate, memorable plate.
Soft-Shell Turtle Chawanmushi-Style Flan with Winter Melon and Grilled Edamame, scented with Yasuoka Negi
Served in a lidded ceramic cup, this bowl seemed to carry the spirit of the land itself.
The vessel is a cup used for fugu fin sake (hire-zake)—a subtle yet memorable touch that conveys local air through the vessel itself.
Open the lid and the aroma of soft-shell turtle dashi rises—not heavy, but clear-edged, naturally heightening anticipation with each sip.
Inside is a silky flan gently set with turtle dashi, with grilled edamame tucked in as an accent. The heat draws out the beans’ aroma and sweetness, subtly lifting the whole.
Additionally, well-cooked winter melon offers a soft, melting texture that echoes the gentleness of the broth and adds depth.
Most striking was the turtle meat served alongside. Any distinctive odor had been expertly removed; its pure flavor and firm bite spoke to careful handling by the kitchen.
A finishing sprinkle of local Yasuoka green onion adds aromatic definition and a light, peppery lift to bring everything into focus.
In vessel, structure, and treatment of ingredients there is no exaggeration—only the conviction of “something you can meet only here.” A quietly confident dish that needs no flash.
Kisu (Japanese Whiting) Fritto with Zucchini Purée and Sautéed Malabar Spinach
A summery plate presented on soft white porcelain.
The star is a light, airy fritto of kisu. The batter is thin and delicate; the flesh flakes without a knife. Gently cooked through, with minimal salt so the fish’s natural sweetness comes through.
Beneath it lies a purée of local zucchini, cooked just enough to retain green freshness and moisture. It catches the fritto’s oils while keeping the profile light.
On top is a sauté of tsurumurasaki (Malabar spinach). Its mild viscosity and green aroma bridge the delicate fish and zucchini, bringing the plate together without over-perfuming.
With humble ingredients stacked by minimal but careful steps, each bite yields subtle shifts in balance. Unaffected and honest—a summer dialogue of greens and white fish that seeps gently into the body.
White Wine: “Domaine de Rochambeau – Canopée”
With the next plate came another white.
It was “Domaine de Rochambeau Canopée” from France’s Loire Valley.
“Canopée” means tree canopy in French. True to the name, the label shows a single tree in full leaf, evoking not just soil and climate but the totality of nature—wind and sunlight included.
The color is pale straw with a hint of gold. A tilt of the glass releases notes of nuts, white peach, and floral honey. The attack is quiet, with minerality spreading gently into the finish.
It pairs well with light fried dishes like kisu fritto and moisture-rich greens like zucchini, supporting temperature and texture without disturbing them.
It never overstates itself yet follows each bite’s changes closely. None of the unruly edges some natural wines show—its structure and white space are beautifully balanced.
A Bowl Composed Entirely of Tomato — “Kikugawa no Ito” Sōmen
A dish using hand-stretched “Kikugawa no Ito” sōmen from Kikugawa, Shimonoseki. Everything in the bowl apart from the noodles is built from “tomato,” a concept as clean as it is bold.
The base is a clear broth extracted from tomato. The balance of temperature and seasoning is exquisite; there’s no overt tomato acidity or greenness—just a quiet spread of gentle sweetness and umami.
Floating atop are freeze-dried tomato and basil. Their concentrated aroma and crisp texture provide a time-lag accent, adding sharp contours to the mellow broth.
The star noodles retain the firm bounce unique to hand-stretched sōmen yet slip down smoothly as one with the broth. Though chilled, the bowl warms rather than cools the body—comforting and calm.
Centering the “deliciousness of sōmen,” it quietly but convincingly answers how far one can construct with tomato as the medium.
Lettuce & Pineapple, layered with Two Cheeses
At first glance it’s a refreshingly crisp salad of cut lettuce—but that impression shifts upon the first bite.
Threaded through the leaves is a generous blue-cheese sauce. Fermented depth contrasts with the lettuce’s cold crunch, creating unexpected breadth on the palate.
Sweetness comes from ripe pineapple cut into cubes. Its sweet-tart lift lightens the blue cheese’s pungency and becomes a core element rather than a mere accent.
Finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano completes the finish. Its savory salt and aroma gather the aftertaste as sweetness, bitterness, acidity, and umami settle into balance.
Simple components, but the interplay and control impress—a cold dish that asserts itself as true cuisine.
Crisp Outside, Chewy Within — Bread that Quietly Elevates the Meal
House-baked bread appears mid-course. The well-baked crust is aromatic and crackles pleasantly under the tooth, while the interior is moist and springy with large, hydrated holes—each bite releasing the grain’s gentle sweetness.
The butter, formed into a neat cylinder and served at an ideal temperature, heightens the bread’s flavor and sits naturally alongside every dish.
More than a “bridge,” this bread stands as a finished course on its own—simple composition reflecting careful work and the restaurant’s aesthetic.
Amadai (Tilefish) Grilled with Scales, with White Eggplant — A Timur Pepper Finish
Crisp skin, plump flesh. The amadai is grilled with scales standing, delivering toasty aroma and refined fatty sweetness. Beneath lies local white eggplant, cooked to a melting softness that blends naturally with the fish.
The sauce brings together local smoked garlic and amadai broth—creamy with a light smokiness that delicately supports layered umami.
A final sprinkle of Nepalese timur pepper rises with a sanshō-like fragrance; on the palate it mixes citrus brightness with a gentle, exotic tingle. After careful fire and structure, this spice’s lingering echo is what etched the memory.
Venison Live-Caught in Fukasaka — A Main that Shines in Precision of Butchery and Composition
The main was venison live-caught in Fukasaka.
There was no gaminess at all; the meat’s umami spread gently.
Wild rocket (rucola selvatica) and sweet green chilies added aromatic and textural accents.
The sauce was a jus made from the deer trimmings.
A spoon of local blueberry confiture in front tightened the outline with light sweetness and acidity.
A Glass to Match the Main — Red with Lingering Grace
The red poured alongside was
Domaine de Raissac Pinot Noir.
Ample fruit with supple tannins that don’t interfere with the dish’s delicate doneness or aroma.
Just the right weight for the transition into the main.
Desserts & Finale
Melon Soup with Coconut Ice Cream
For dessert: a chilled soup capturing the gentle sweetness of ripe melon, paired with coconut ice cream. The melon’s juiciness and the coconut’s milky character overlap softly—perfect refreshment for lingering summer heat, leaving a clear afterglow near the end of the course.
Terrine au Chocolat with Caramelized Banana and Sea Salt
A rich chocolate terrine topped with caramelized banana. A final sprinkle of salt adds definition and depth to the sweetness. Not heavy—balanced to the last bite. A fitting conclusion to the meal.
To finish, a cup of rooibos-berry herbal tea—gently sweet, softly aromatic, and perfectly in tune with the evening’s lingering calm.
Summary & Impressions
“Restaurant Takatsu” sits on a hill in a residential area of Shimonoseki, within a wing of a Western-style building from the Taishō era.
While the exterior carries the gravitas of a registered cultural property,
the atmosphere shifts the moment you step inside.
A minimal interior with intentional white space. Low music and restrained lighting.
A kitchen unfolding in depth beyond the L-shaped counter.
Though a restaurant, it feels almost like a club lounge,
already primed to let you be at ease without pretense.
While grounded in French technique, the dishes don’t trace a template.
They arise from facing these ingredients, in this place, at this moment.
Each plate builds layers of temperature and aroma that gently guide the diner’s senses.
The ability to make an ingredient sing—and to compose the whole—is equally strong.
Many dishes linger in memory, yet it wasn’t one standout so much as
a consistent density from beginning to end that impressed most.
In the “spaces between” ingredients—the pairings, textures, and aromatic bridges—
you feel the surety of the chef’s sensibility.
The chef himself also symbolizes the place.
He wears a T-shirt he made himself rather than a chef’s jacket,
speaks sparingly, yet his movements carry a taut precision.
Never lax—rather, since everything is expressed through cuisine and space, little explanation is needed.
Not “a good restaurant discovered in the countryside,” but
the inevitability of this cuisine existing in that place—
that is what clearly came through that night.
Reservations & Access
How to Book
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Reservations required; advance booking is essential.
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Available methods:
・Phone: 083-234-2299
・IKKYU.com (online booking)
・Pocket Concierge (online booking) -
For private hire, call to discuss date/party size/budget/purpose.
Access
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Address: 13-7 Misakinocho, Shimonoseki, Yamaguchi
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Nearest station: JR Shimonoseki Station
・About 4 minutes by bus
・About 20 minutes on foot -
Located on a hill; the mansion’s stately exterior is your landmark.
Hours
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Dinner: 19:00 start (weekdays & weekends)
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Lunch (weekends only): 12:00 start
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*Some booking sites may show a 17:00 start option (please confirm).
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Closed: Irregular (often Wednesdays—please confirm when booking).
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