About River Fish & Foraged Cuisine Amagen (Amegen)
Concept
Founded in Tenpō 9 (1838). This long-established restaurant along the clear Tamashima River specializes in river fish and foraged (tsumikusa) cuisine, cherishing an experience that lets you savor nature and flavor with all five senses.
All ingredients are sourced locally from the Tamashima River—river fish such as ayu (sweetfish), tsugani (Chinese mitten crab), yamame (landlocked masu trout), shirauo (icefish), koi (carp), and more. Live fish are kept fresh in holding tanks fed directly with river water, and procurement is carried out in close coordination with local fishers. Local foraged dishes and home-grown vegetables (six kinds of daikon, tade leaves, akebi, etc.) are also served, crafted so you can fully enjoy nature’s bounty with every sense.
Dishes are presented on tableware of Karatsu ware that harmonizes with traditional techniques. While rice bowls are Arita ware, the main serving plates are from renowned Karatsu kilns, deepening the experience through the unity of vessel and cuisine .
Courses are designed around seasonal river fish and foraged plants. The signature “Ayu no Ameyaki” is finished with a secret glaze inherited from the first-generation owner Genkichi’s syrup shop, notable for its glossy sheen and aroma. Whole simmered tsugani crab, a closing bowl of tsugani rice, and live shirauo sashimi (“odorigui”) all draw out the natural sweetness and umami of the ingredients .
The building and interior are serene and Japanese in style, with mostly private rooms (about 30 seats; seven tatami-mat private rooms). From the raised seating you can hear the murmur of the Tamashima River and take your time dining while feeling the changing seasons. It was awarded two stars in the Michelin Guide Fukuoka & Saga 2014 special edition.
4th-Generation Owner, Mr. Miyoshi Tanaka
Currently, 4th-generation owner, Mr. Miyoshi Tanaka (born 1943), after graduating from Nakamura Culinary Academy (now Nakamura Culinary & Confectionery College), took over the family business and has upheld the “Amagen” noren for more than 60 years .
He values respect for ingredients and relationships with fishers, maintaining a firm mindset that “our noren exists thanks to the fishers.” There’s even an anecdote that in the past he would offer sake to fishers; today, he says, trust is nurtured over tea and ongoing connection.
The introduction of foraged cuisine was also Mr. Tanaka’s idea. By cultivating and incorporating local wild herbs and vegetables in addition to river fish, the culinary range broadened and guests grew to love it. Among them, he decided that tade leaves must be grown in-house to preserve their quality, and his commitment to cultivating them is striking.
The 5th generation, Mr. Toyoji Tanaka, and the 6th, Mr. Shuji Tanaka, now work alongside him in the kitchen as three generations, carrying on traditional techniques while exploring new approaches . In Gault&Millau, the listing is under Chef Shuji Tanaka, with a strong evaluation (15.5/20), recognized as part of Kyushu gastronomy.
Restaurant Accolades
“Amagen” stands quietly by a clear stream in the mountains of Karatsu.
Renowned for its river fish and foraged fare, this long-standing house not only preserves local food culture but has also earned solid recognition from gourmet guides in Japan and abroad.
First to note is the two stars in the 2014 “Michelin Guide Fukuoka & Saga” special edition.
Dishes that make the most of the river’s bounty—such as river crab and ayu—were highly praised even then.
This was followed by one star in the 2019 “Michelin Guide Fukuoka, Saga & Nagasaki,” reaffirming its status as a representative ryotei of the region.
Its recognition has continued uninterrupted. In the Japan edition of the French gourmet guide Gault&Millau, it has been featured continuously from 2023 through the latest 2025, earning a score of 15.5/20. This corresponds to three toques as a “remarkable restaurant.” From an international perspective as well, it is acknowledged for elevating local ingredients into contemporary beauty.
Furthermore, on the highly trusted domestic platform Tabelog, it has achieved the 2025 “Bronze” award and selection among the Top 100 Japanese Restaurants WEST—an honor in two forms. The score remains steadily around 4.2, numerically reflecting the balance of cuisine, atmosphere, service, and value.
In particular, dishes unique to this region—like river crab and koi-koku (miso soup of carp)—are carefully prepared and linger long in memory, creating repeat visitors.
Voices from actual guests often mention “warm hospitality that belies the formality of a Michelin-starred establishment” and “the coexistence of time-honored assurance with fresh sensibilities.” Bearing the weight of history yet never stiff, their natural, welcoming approach is likely one reason for the high regard.
Dining Prelude
Exterior & Entrance
An old townhouse façade with striking lattice doors and white plaster walls. Its presence along the street carries a quietude, with verdant maples and plantings adding seasonal color.
Pass under the noren and step onto the stone path to a wooden, warm-toned entryway. Stone Buddhas and ikebana in the softly lit earthen-floor foyer greet you, gently settling the mind as you enter.
Soft light filters through shoji along the corridor, and the further you go, the more time seems to slow. Framed calligraphy of Daruma and furnishings made of old wood convey careful upkeep that passes history down the generations.
Waiting Room
We were first guided to a waiting room before the dining area.
There, in a calm space, we were served fragrant yomogi (mugwort) tea.
Its gentle bitterness and soft sweetness quietly set the tone for the meal to come.
Photos on the wall showed the many notable figures and entertainers who have visited, naturally conveying the restaurant’s history and depth.
More than a mere waiting area, it had a unique atmosphere, making us feel that a special experience began with the very first step.
Dining Rooms
Tatami-mat private rooms with a large lacquered low table. Soft light through shoji screens, a hanging scroll and flowers in the tokonoma alcove.
From the windows, the river surface glitters; you can see the bridge and distant mountain ridges, while the room itself remains hushed and composed.
Even before the food arrives, the time you spend here feels like a treat in itself.
Menu Presentation
Founded in Tenpō 9, “Amagen” in Hamatama, Karatsu, Saga has carried on cuisine that showcases river fish and the blessings of the mountains.
At its core are river fish that change with the seasons and tsugani (river crab). Courses are composed to reflect the time of year, while set meals and à la carte dishes let you enjoy it more casually.
Course Meals
The stars at Amagen are course meals built around river fish. Four price tiers are available according to number of dishes and ingredient quality.
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River Fish “Kiwami” Course (¥18,000)
Small dishes, sashimi, grilled item, tsugani, unagi, soup, rice, fruit. An indulgent lineup to fully enjoy river fish and tsugani. -
River Fish “Matsu” Course (¥15,000)
Small dish, yubiki (lightly poached), sashimi, grilled item, extra-large tsugani, soup, rice, fruit. A powerful tsugani takes center stage. -
River Fish “Take” Course (¥12,000)
Small dish, yubiki, sashimi, grilled item, medium-to-large tsugani, soup, rice, fruit. The standard course balancing river fish and tsugani. -
River Fish “Ume” Course (¥7,700)
Small dish, sashimi, grilled item, small tsugani, soup, rice, fruit. Depending on the season, tsugani may be omitted; a casual introductory option.
A seasonal “Tsugani Course” centered on autumn-prime crab is also popular—Matsu (¥15,000), Take (¥12,000), and Ume (from ¥7,700)—featuring whole simmered crab, crab rice, and crab soup, all deep in savor.
From summer through winter, there is also a course of wild soft-shell turtle (suppon) (from ¥10,000 / for two or more), spanning karaage, hot pot, and rice porridge—a nourishing feast.
◾ Set Meals & À la Carte
Beyond courses, set meals and à la carte offerings are plentiful.
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Set meals include ayu, yamame, shirauo, koi no arai (rinsed carp sashimi), wild boar hot-stone grill, unagi, crab, etc. (around ¥5,000–¥6,000). Crab soup, crab rice, and fruit accompany them for a light way to enjoy river fish.
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À la carte includes kabayaki eel and crispy eel bones, salt-grilled / ameyaki / segochi (back-sliced) ayu and yamame, koi no arai, whole simmered tsugani, and even wild boar hot-stone grill and ham—tempting as seasonal sakana (drinking snacks).
◆ With the Turn of the Seasons
Shirauo in spring; ayu in early summer; tsugani and wild boar in autumn; suppon in winter. The blessings of each season appear directly in Amagen’s menus.
Savor the shifting flavors of river fish alongside the clear-stream scenery—that is the true delight of this house.
Starter Drink: Shiso Juice
First came a vivid reddish-purple shiso juice.
Poured over ice, it already looked cool and refreshing.
On the palate, the herb’s distinctive aroma and gentle acidity spread, followed by a natural sweetness.
It was a quietly refreshing taste that made you forget the summer heat.
Between dishes it neatly reset the palate and bridged the way to the next course.
Dishes We Actually Tasted
Trio of Appetizers
We began with three delicately plated bites on small dishes.
Each shone within its refined vessel, gracefully announcing the start of the meal.
First, crisp fried river shrimp—sweetness and umami concentrated, with an appealing crunch. A sprig of green maple added seasonal flair.
In the center bowl was a plum syrup whose gentle sweetness and acidity were in exquisite balance. Its cool, clean taste whetted the appetite for what followed.
Then, one of the stars: ayu nanban-zuke. The sweet-vinegar marinade lent a refreshing acidity; the fish was plump and tender, the bones cooked soft. The harmony of faint bitterness and tang highlighted the character of river fish.
These opening bites embodied Amagen’s careful cooking, conveying the river’s bounty and the turn of the seasons.
Lightly Poached Eel (Yubiki)
That day, an especially fine eel had come in, so we added an extra order.
First it was served yubiki-style.
Laid over ice, the eel’s flesh had a translucent, delicate hue.
The accompanying red onion—home-grown by the chairman (the fourth generation?)—was notably fresh and juicy, with flowers adding a cool touch of color.
A bite revealed tender softness, with the eel’s umami gently spreading.
The plump texture unique to yubiki and its clean finish were striking, and it paired beautifully with ponzu.
A dish that lets you taste the quality of the ingredient straight on—truly special even among river-fish preparations.
Koi no Arai & Ayu Back-Slice Sashimi, Home-Grown Vegetables
The carp sashimi (arai), served on ice, was firm yet plump, offering just the right spring.
The standout was the ayu back-slice (segochi): sliced thinly with bones left in, it delivered the characteristic flavor of river fish with clarity.
Home-grown vegetables, cultivated as a hobby by the chairman, were piled in abundance—fresh leafy greens and roots that heightened the fish’s flavors.
The vinegar-miso had assertive acidity and depth; adding their house yuzu-kosho to taste brought a brisk heat that added complexity.
This trio captured Amagen’s seasonal sensibility and finesse, harmonizing the river’s gifts with the strength of the soil.
The vinegar-miso had assertive acidity and depth; adding their house yuzu-kosho to taste brought a brisk heat that added complexity.
This trio captured Amagen’s seasonal sensibility and finesse, harmonizing the river’s gifts with the strength of the soil.
Salt-Grilled & Ameyaki Ayu
A large ayu arrived prepared two ways.
First, salt-grilled: the skin crackled with aroma while the flesh stayed fluffy and soft. The ayu’s gentle bitterness and umami came through plainly; dipping into tadezu (tade-leaf vinegar) added a refreshing acidity that tightened the fish’s richness.
The ameyaki, by contrast, was brushed with a sweet-savory glaze and carefully grilled over charcoal.
It featured a candy-like gloss and toasty aroma, with a robust flavor that spread across the palate.
The balance of sweetness and umami was spot-on, evoking a touch of nostalgia.
Tasting the two side by side offered a luxurious window into the diversity of ayu cookery.
Tsugani (Mokuzugani)
In Karatsu, Saga and some surrounding areas, the river crab locally called “tsugani” is beloved.
This refers to the same species known nationwide as “mokuzugani” (Chinese mitten crab).
Mokuzugani inhabit rivers and ponds, with two peak seasons—spring and autumn.
In Saga’s local cuisine they are essential; around Karatsu they are rooted in the culture under the name “tsugani.”
What we had that day was tsugani caught in early spring.
The proprietress showed us in person how to crack the shell and eat it, letting us fully enjoy its rich flavor.
Knowing the differences in regional names makes it all the clearer how deeply Amagen’s cuisine is rooted in its locale and history.
Grilled Eel (Kabayaki)
Amagen’s kabayaki eel is remarkable for its fragrant sheen and gloss.
The plump flesh is coated in a rich sauce, releasing gentle umami with each bite.
Carefully grilled over charcoal, the skin is crisp and aromatic while the flesh is soft with pleasant resilience.
Liver is served alongside, and even the head can be enjoyed—part of the charm.
The sweet-savory tare is exquisitely balanced, so the dish remains satisfying to the very end.
Deep-Fried Ayu
The deep-fried ayu was crisp and aromatic on the outside, with a fluffy interior—an impeccable contrast.
Retaining a light, clean umami, the bones were fried through so you could enjoy the fish whole.
Each bite released the river fish’s character, married to the just-fried aroma—simple, yet deeply satisfying.
It became one of those dishes you can’t stop eating; before we knew it, the plate was clean.
Koi-koku, Ayu Rice & Unusual Pickles
As a finisher came koi-koku—rich yet gentle, with a miso base.
Carp umami melted into the broth, giving it depth while keeping the aftertaste clean.
The ayu rice offered a mellow flavor that lightly carried the fish’s aroma; tender grains soaked up the umami.
Among the pickles was a rare one made from watermelon rind—refreshingly sweet with a crisp bite.
Subtle touches like this balanced the whole meal, keeping interest to the very end.
Dessert & Finale
Assorted Seasonal Fruits
To close, a basket of seasonal fruits was served, looking wonderfully cool.
Juicy watermelon, deeply sweet melon, and kiwi with a refreshing tartness.
All were in season, neatly refreshing the palate after the meal.
Beautiful to behold, it gently concluded the lingering pleasure of the meal.
Summary & Impressions
Amagen is located in Hamatama-machi, Karatsu City, Saga Prefecture, a place blessed with abundant nature.
Nearby are sights like Karatsu Castle, Niji-no-Matsubara (the famed pine grove), and the terraced rice fields of Hamanoura—an area where history and scenery intertwine to evoke Japan’s original landscape.
In such a setting, Amagen—continuing since the Tenpō era—carries forward the tradition of river-fish cuisine.
With craftsmanship skilled in handling ingredients, it expresses the delicate umami of river fish and the changing seasons.
The proprietress’s thoughtful hospitality wins guests’ hearts, allowing visitors to feel the depth not only of the cuisine but of the region’s culture.
Tsugani (mokuzugani) has peak seasons not only in early spring but again in autumn, letting you enjoy it twice a year.
Next time, I’d like to return in autumn to taste the river’s bounty in another guise.
Visiting Amagen was a precious experience that made me feel the strong bond between the region’s rich nature and its food culture.
Reservations & Access Information
How to Reserve
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Reservations (recommended). You can make a web reservation via the official site. Phone reservations are also accepted. Inquiry hours are 10:00–17:00. Please book no later than 17:00 on the day before your visit (reservations accepted up to six months in advance).
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Reservation phone number listed on the official site: 050-1724-2537.
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General landline (tourist information): 0955-56-6926.
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Private bookings require advance reservation (note on the site: accepted from around two weeks prior).
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Their official Instagram account also provides a web booking link.
Business Hours (Guide)
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Lunch: Entry slots at 11:00 / 12:00 / 13:00 (closes 15:30)
Dinner: Entry slots at 17:00 / 18:00 (closes 21:00)
*Closed Tuesdays. -
Tourism/municipal info sites concur: 11:00–21:00 (break 15:30–17:00) / closed Tuesdays.
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Some gourmet sites note L.O. 19:00 (useful as a reference for dinner’s latest order time).
Access
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Address: 1058-2 Gotanda, Hamatama-machi, Karatsu-shi, Saga Prefecture.
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Nearest: JR Chikuhi Line — about 5–7 minutes by car from Hamasaki Station. A taxi is the practical option.
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Bus: About Gotanda stop on Showa Bus; approx. 1 minute on foot.
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By car: about 5 minutes from Nishi-Kyushu Expwy, Hamatama IC (via National Route 323).
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Parking: Information indicates capacity for 30 standard cars (plus 2 buses).
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