CONTENTS
About Sushi Sho (Sushi Shō)
Concept
Quietly tucked away in a Yotsuya side street, “Sushi Sho” is a house that rigorously practices Edomae techniques while expanding their possibilities. Its hallmark is a course that alternates small plates (tsumami) and nigiri. You sip sake with a little dish, pause for a piece of sushi, then return to another morsel. This ebb and flow gives the meal a narrative.
Each neta receives meticulous prep, paired with shari seasoned either with red vinegar or rice vinegar. Techniques such as aging and marinating are employed to draw out the character of the ingredients and push sushi’s potential forward.
Equally important is the “people” element. The counter erases distance between inside and outside; chefs fine-tune the atmosphere through their attention and movements. Disciples are trained, noren are passed on, and the culture of sushi itself is carried into the next generation. Protecting tradition while never ceasing to evolve—that stance lies at the core of Sushi Sho.
About the Head Chefs
Mr. Keiji Nakazawa
Born in 1962. He entered the culinary world as a teenager, opened “Sushi Sho Sawa” in 1989, and moved to Yotsuya in 1993 to establish “Sushi Sho.” While faithfully preserving the “work” of Edomae sushi, he established a unique style of alternating tsumami and nigiri. He has trained many disciples and helped spread sushi culture in Japan and abroad. In 2016 he opened in Hawaii, taking on the challenge of preparing local fish with Edomae techniques. Beyond the taste of the sushi itself, he has sought to elevate the value of “being a sushi shop” including the gestures and the air of the space.
Mr. Keita Katsumata
Shizuoka-born Keita Katsumata studied at Tsuji Culinary Institute and trained at “Arashiyama Kitcho” in Kyoto. Around the age of twenty he first tasted Sushi Sho’s sushi and was deeply struck. Moved by the depth of Edomae sushi and the original structure alternating tsumami and nigiri, he sought to train under Mr. Keiji Nakazawa.
From joining in 2005 for over a decade, he was entrusted with everything from prep to the cutting board, relentlessly learning sushi technique, deportment, and how to face guests.
In 2016, as founder Nakazawa shifted his focus to new challenges such as opening in Hawaii, the Yotsuya main shop was entrusted to Katsumata. As the second-generation head at the board, he has inherited his master’s style while refining aging and the composition of small plates with his own sensibility.
Today’s Sushi Sho houses both the philosophy passed down from Nakazawa and the fresh breath of Katsumata’s own sensibility. A stance of preserving tradition while renewing it is precisely what distinguishes him as the second generation.
Restaurant Recognition
Yotsuya’s “Sushi Sho” has long garnered high praise from Japan and abroad.
At Tabelog’s “The Tabelog Award,” it has repeatedly won Silver since 2018. It has also been selected multiple times for “Sushi Top 100 TOKYO,” showing the consistent quality of its sushi.
It has attracted overseas media attention as well. “CN Traveler” lauds its use of aged fish, an atmosphere that balances tension and warmth, and attentive service. Domestic gourmet sites also introduce it as “top tier in Tokyo,” positioning it as the core of the Sushi Sho group.
Key points of evaluation include the artful course that interweaves tsumami and nigiri, the meticulous prep of the neta, and the precision of shari that switches between red and white vinegar. Many also remark on the beauty of movements across the counter and the fine-grained hospitality that lingers in memory.
Though priced at a high-end level, many comment that the overall experience delivers “satisfaction beyond the price.” While expanding its noren domestically and internationally, the Yotsuya main shop has built an unshakable reputation as a leader of sushi culture.
Dining Prelude
Exterior & Entrance
Blending into a Yotsuya residential area, the entrance of “Sushi Sho” sits modestly like a corner of a traditional townhouse. On a section of white-walled building rests a small eave with roof tiles, beneath which a wooden lattice sliding door is set.
Beside the entrance are a bamboo screen and plantings, with a softly glowing lantern lighting your feet even in daytime. The wooden sign boldly bears the characters for “Sushi Sho,” yet overall the décor is restrained, maintaining a quiet presence.
Dining Space
At the heart of Sushi Sho is a single slab hinoki counter. It’s a small room with about ten seats and absolutely no superfluous decoration.
Across the counter you can see neta in a clear-lidded case, with the state of aging and prep directly in view. Knife work and hand movements unfold right before you, and the meal progresses like a performance.
Deep green walls and soft light through shoji accentuate the warmth of the wood, lending calm within the quiet tension. Lighting isn’t overly bright—just enough to naturally illuminate the hands and ingredients. Backs and legroom are generous, so even long meals don’t feel cramped.
The space as a whole keeps quiet focus yet carries a certain warmth. It’s pared down solely for facing sushi, and simply taking a seat fills you with the sense that something special is about to begin.
Menu Presentation
The omakase at Sushi Sho Yotsuya is assembled not to merely line up sushi, but like a single story. It begins with a small plate, a nigiri is inserted, then back to a small plate. This alternating structure is the shop’s great signature: as you proceed, rhythm and contrast arise, keeping your palate focused without interruption.
Each neta receives the “work” best suited to its condition that day—aging, marinating, curing, applying heat, and more. Shari is switched between red-vinegar and rice-vinegar styles, thoroughly seeking the best balance for each topping.
Seasonal fish and shellfish are woven in, with light tsumami setting the pace, and in the latter half the sushi comes in waves. A composition that never lets the diner tire to the very end—this is Sushi Sho’s style.
What you see across the counter—movements and glimpses of prep—is also part of the experience. Not only the food, but the time itself, carrying both tension and warmth, is built into the omakase. Though a high-end restaurant, the reason it’s said to offer “value beyond the price” lies in this overarching structure and accumulation of detail.
Dishes We Actually Tasted
Chawanmushi with Horsehair Crab and Lily Bulb
Opening the omakase was a chawanmushi lavishly filled with horsehair crab. Within the silky custard, fluffy lily bulb is tucked in, and with each bite the crab’s savor and lily bulb’s gentle sweetness layer together.
Delicate yet deeply nourishing, it quietly warms the body—a prelude that gently opens the palate for the sushi to come.
Nigiri ① Young Sea Bream (Kasugodai) with Kinshi-tamago
The first piece in Sushi Sho’s omakase is this young sea bream nigiri. The pale flesh of the small bream retains a beautiful skin side and is dusted with fine strands of kinshi-tamago.
It’s paired with white shari. Gentle acidity and temperature highlight the refined sweetness of the fish, with the aroma of egg floating in as you bite.
It’s said, “If you think Sushi Sho, you think this piece”—a classic that establishes the early rhythm of the sushi. Within its subtle taste, the chef’s sensibility and accumulated craft are clearly etched.
Sea Bream Sashimi
Following the first nigiri came sea bream sashimi. The translucent flesh is fresh and moist; on the tongue it leaves a delicate spring while a faint sweetness spreads.
Served not with soy sauce but with wasabi and salt. The grains of salt tighten the umami, and the wasabi’s fragrance slips in afterward. It’s a plate that conveys the ingredient most straightforwardly.
Nigiri ② Kohada with Red Shari
Kohada (gizzard shad) is one of the fish that symbolize “work” in sushi. At Sushi Sho it’s matched with red-vinegar shari, the curing perfectly judged.
The flesh is moist and glossy; as you bite, the tartness unique to vinegared fish spreads and overlaps with the deep acidity of red shari. The temperature and grain of the rice harmonize with the tender flesh, drawing out flavor with each chew.
Following the opening kasugodai, this kohada makes the outline of “Sushi Sho-style sushi” vivid. A memorable piece where the presence of red shari stands out.
Nigiri ③ Tuna (Akkeshi, Hokkaido) Akami with Red Shari
Next was tuna from Akkeshi, Hokkaido—an akami nigiri. The deep crimson placed on red-vinegar shari shines with a powerful presence.
In the mouth, the iron-tinged savor unique to akami gently spreads, and the acidity of the red shari receives that strength and leads it into a lingering finish. A piece that highlights both the assured flavor of tuna raised in Akkeshi’s seas and Sushi Sho’s red shari.
Following kohada, it carried a weight that seemed to set the skeleton of the sushi—a striking akami.
Octopus
Served in between, the octopus is tenderly cooked yet retains bounce. With each chew, savor seeps out.
It’s paired not with soy sauce but with wasabi and salt. The simple salinity lifts the octopus’s sweetness, and wasabi’s coolness tightens the finish. A small plate in front of sushi that resets a flow that can become heavy.
Nigiri ④ Cuttlefish (Sumi-ika) with White Shari
Then came sumi-ika nigiri. The white flesh retaining translucence is scored finely, softening the texture while leaving just-right bite.
Paired with white shari, its gentle acidity and light mouthfeel draw out the squid’s unique sweetness and clarity; with each chew, umami quietly spreads.
Unshowy, yet it communicates the basics of sushi precisely. In the flow, this delicate cuttlefish also resets the palate.
Matsumae-zuke with Uni, Ikura, and Sumi-ika Tentacles
A small bowl layering the ocean’s goodness appeared mid-course. On a base of matsumae-zuke—kelp and herring roe pickled together—richly sweet uni, popping-salty ikura, and pleasantly chewy cuttlefish tentacles come together as one.
Each ingredient speaks out, yet the kelp’s umami ties everything together, excelling both as a sake snack and as an accent between sushi. A multilayered plate where savor and texture intersect.
Nigiri ⑤ Spanish Mackerel (Sawara) with Red Shari
Next was sawara nigiri. The lightly fatty flesh is finely scored and melts softly along the tongue.
With red shari, the sawara’s light savor gains depth; as you chew, sweetness and acidity harmonize and expand. The aging is spot-on, giving a delicate fish a defined outline.
It carries a freshness that evokes spring to early summer while gaining dimension from the red shari—a memorable piece.
Isobe-yaki of Pen Shell
A pen shell, fragrantly grilled, is sandwiched with nori and handed to you right over the counter. The flesh is plump yet resilient, and the roasted aroma and nori’s fragrance bloom the moment it enters your mouth.
The style of receiving it by hand rather than on a plate is striking, bringing the counter’s distance even closer. It’s a Sushi Sho-like performance that composes the experience not only with sushi, but with the exchange with the diner itself.
Nigiri ⑥ Sardine with White Shari and Scallion
A nigiri of rich, fatty sardine. The glossy flesh is finely scored so excess fat dissolves lightly as it enters the mouth.
Matched with white shari, it’s arranged to clearly lift the sardine’s ample sweetness. The scallion on top adds a fresh aroma, tying up the finish lightly.
Different from the strength of tuna or shellfish, this piece stands out for the freshness unique to blue-backed fish.
Grilled Gingko Nuts
A side course in between: fragrant grilled gingko nuts. The surface bears a slight char; bite in and a distinctive gentle bitterness and aroma spread.
Though small, their flavor is condensed; within the sushi’s flow they reset the palate and quietly convey the season. Unassuming yet with a definite role.
Gunkan-maki with Ikura
Next came a gunkan roll generously heaped with lustrous orange ikura. In the mouth it pops, with nori’s aroma and the shari’s warmth spreading as one.
The balance of salinity and umami is exquisite; simple yet outstandingly complete. It adds a small accent in the flow while leaving a firm marine afterglow.
Grilled Mehikari
Mehikari (greeneye) grilled fragrantly: the skin is crisp and aromatic while the inside is plump and tender.
A touch of the red condiment in front adds measured heat and tang, neatly tightening the rich flesh. A simple grill that draws out the coexistence of delicacy and richness that defines mehikari.
Palate Cleanser: Cucumber Nukazuke
Inserted between the sushi flow was cucumber nukazuke. Its fresh crunch and faint aroma of rice bran tidy the palate.
It resets the layered flavors that have built up and refreshes the tongue for the next piece. Simple yet indispensable.
Nigiri ⑦ Tuna Chūtoro (belly cut) with Red Shari
After the palate cleanser came chūtoro cut from the belly. The lustrous flesh is marbled just right, its strength evident at a glance.
Placed on red-vinegar shari, the fat’s sweetness never cloys; acidity tightens the whole. As you chew, richness and clarity intersect, revealing a depth different from akami.
Kue Shabu-shabu
Next was shabu-shabu of kue, an elegant white fish (longtooth grouper). Light cooking puffs the flesh, highlighting the sweetness of its fat.
Warm on the surface and moist within, the seasoning with dashi brings out the fish’s inherent umami. There’s no need for soy sauce; it’s complete as is.
Inserted as a warm dish between nigiri, it varies the flow while emphasizing deep savor.
Nigiri ⑦ Pacific Saury (Sanma) with White Shari
A sanma nigiri lightly torched to fragrance. The rich, fatty flesh releases aromatic savor, with a touch of liver adding even more depth.
Paired with white shari, sanma’s intensity stands out all the more, as aroma and umami balance beautifully in the mouth.
A piece where the strength and delicacy unique to seasonal fish coexist. It brims with sushi’s seasonal charm.
Abalone with Its Own Broth Thickened into a Sauce
The abalone is gently simmered to plump tenderness; the more you chew, the more savor expands.
Encasing it is a sauce made by thickening the profound broth drawn from the abalone itself.
It maximizes the ingredient’s own flavor while a gentle viscosity leaves a lingering finish.
A delicate, warming dish where the sea’s bounty harmonizes with craftsmanship.
Nigiri ⑧ Kuruma-ebi with Red Shari
Lightly cooked kuruma-ebi shows springy snap and sweetness.
Red shari’s acidity and depth heighten the shrimp’s savor, leaving a gently lingering aftertaste.
A classic yet special piece where visual flair and flavor depth coexist.
Grilled Nodoguro with Sanshō
Nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch) with superb fat is grilled so the skin is fragrant and the flesh stays moist.
A mouthful spreads steady umami, balancing refined sweetness and roasted notes.
A touch of sanshō tightens the whole with a fresh aroma, revealing another face.
A representative grilled dish that marries luxury and finesse.
Maki Rolls
On the right, a roll combining monkfish liver and watermelon Nara-zuke. The rich ankimo gains accent from the crunch and sweetness of Nara-zuke, showing a distinctly Japanese character.
On the left, a roll of chopped aged fatty tuna. The sweetness of fat and umami from aging are condensed, wrapped in the aroma of shari and nori to melt together in the mouth.
Fitting for the finale, these rolls embody both Sushi Sho’s originality and its command of the classics.
Shijimi Miso Soup
A bowl served to close the course.
Though small, the clams release a concentrated dashi that overlaps with miso’s aroma to soothe warmly.
It resets the tongue and lets you savor the afterglow at ease.
Additional Nigiri ① “Ohagi”
A Sushi Sho specialty: minced tuna scraped from the bone mixed with chopped scallion and takuan, gently placed over red shari.
It’s named for its resemblance to the Japanese sweet ohagi.
The rich tuna savor, the crunchy takuan, and the unity with the rice are irresistible—a playful nigiri.
Additional Nigiri ② Ankimo & Watermelon Nara-zuke
The “ankimo with watermelon Nara-zuke” that appeared in the rolls now as nigiri as well.
Rich monkfish liver meets the aroma and sweetness of Nara-zuke, with watermelon notes adding an accent—utterly unique.
One of Sushi Sho’s specialties, and tasting it at the head temple was a moving moment.
Takeaways & Impressions
The omakase we had at Sushi Sho Yotsuya began with horsehair crab chawanmushi and then, from the first kasugodai piece onward, interwove nigiri and small plates—the very Sushi Sho style. White and red shari were deftly used, with tuna and hikari-mono as axes, while dish-like elements such as kue shabu-shabu, pen-shell isobe-yaki, and abalone were woven in, creating a flow full of dynamics.
In the latter half, alongside classic turns like chūtoro, kuruma-ebi, and grilled nodoguro, the famed “ohagi” and “ankimo with watermelon Nara-zuke” also appeared. We felt the depth and breadth befitting the head temple, and never once grew bored thanks to the playfulness and individuality in each piece.
Sushi Sho presented a new form of sushi, and the second-generation head, Chef Katsumata, preserves and carries on its essence. With an easygoing character that puts the room at ease yet an unwavering seriousness toward sushi, he made us feel anew what makes this shop special.
Reservations & Access
How to Reserve
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By phone
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Online: also accepted via the booking site “OMAKASE” (limited to cancellation openings and certain seats)
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Cancellations are also announced on the official Instagram, so following is recommended
Access
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Address: 1F Yōrindō Bldg., 1-11 Yotsuya, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
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Nearest station: About a 4-minute walk from “Yotsuya Station” (JR Chūō/Sōbu Line and Tokyo Metro Marunouchi & Namboku Lines), Akasaka Exit.
Hours & Closed Days
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Lunch: Mon/Wed/Fri 11:30–13:30
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Dinner: Mon/Wed/Fri 18:00–22:30; Tue/Thu/Sat 18:00–22:30 (some information indicates two seatings starting at 18:00 / 21:00)
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Closed: Sundays and Monday public holidays; may also close temporarily around New Year’s and Golden Week.
When reserving or visiting, we recommend being punctual and checking the cancellation policy.
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