BISHOKU QUEST

A Memorable Dish Discovered on the Journey

BISHOKU QUEST is a gourmet blog that travels across Japan in search of exceptional local cuisine.
Through stories behind the dishes—highlighting the passion of chefs
and the charm of regional ingredients—we carefully weave each encounter together with photographs.

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About Torishige

Concept

Located near Shinjuku East Exit, “Torishige” is a long-established restaurant that began as a food stall in 1949 (Showa 24).
In the years just after the war, when supplies were scarce, they started out by skewering easily obtainable pork offal and grilling it over charcoal. That was the origin of the shop. The “Tori” (bird) in the name remains from a time when the term “yakitori” in Japan commonly included grilled pork offal as well, and “Shige” is taken from the name of then–Prime Minister Shigeru Yoshida.

What has been passed down through the generations is an unwavering commitment to the freshness of the offal. They use pigs that were alive until the early morning, process them the same day, and buy and prep fresh every single day. This is how they draw out powerful flavor in every skewer. The signature “pīman no nikuzume” (green bell pepper stuffed with minced meat) has been on the menu since the restaurant was founded, characterized by a slightly sweet tare sauce and fragrant char. In addition to cuts like liver, upper shiro (premium large intestine), and temple meat, the course menu also incorporates rare cuts of wagyu beef and seasonal luxury ingredients, making the lineup change from day to day.

Inside the lively restaurant, the counter seats in front of the grill are especially popular. With photos and an atmosphere that retain a Showa-era feel, Torishige has a welcoming breadth that embraces everyone from long-time regulars to first-time visitors.

About the Owner

The current noren (shop banner) is in the hands of the third-generation owner, Mr. Yuji Sakamaki.
While cherishing the traditions built by the first and second generations, he actively embraces new challenges.

He is particularly exacting about how he cooks each skewer, carefully judging the heat on the surface and at the center and finishing them one by one with great care. Depending on the day’s procurement and the condition of the ingredients, he decides whether to season with salt or tare sauce, and he personally inspects the prep of the offal with his own eyes. It’s a thoroughly hands-on approach.

At the same time, while preserving long-standing flavors such as the classic “pīman no nikuzume,” he keeps evolving the menu by incorporating wagyu, rare cuts, and seasonal ingredients into the courses. His stance in the restaurant is very open: he stands at the grill on the other side of the counter, sharing the same air as his guests. He clearly values his regulars while also making a sincere effort to ensure that first-time visitors enjoy themselves as well. That attitude is striking.

Restaurant Accolades

“Torishige” is a renowned restaurant that has long been a recipient of The Tabelog Award, announced every year by the gourmet website Tabelog.
It has been selected every year since 2017, and in 2019 and 2020 it received the Silver award. Since then it has consistently earned Bronze, and it remains on the list in 2025. In the genre of grilled skewers and offal (kushi-yaki / motsu-yaki), a restaurant that has been rated so highly for so long is rare, and Torishige is regarded as a special presence even among its peers.

Dining Prelude

Exterior & Entrance

“Torishige” sits quietly just off a busy street lined with buildings near Shinjuku Station’s South Exit. There’s a McDonald’s and other easy-to-spot landmarks nearby, and it’s become standard to use the back street behind those as your route.

The alleyway in front of the entrance is not particularly wide, and the warm glow of streetlights and signs serves as your guide. The noren curtain bearing the “Torishige” name and the wooden signboard at the entrance catch the eye. At night, the soft light illuminating them falls gently across the alley, giving a sense of warmth without feeling too intimidating. Glass doors, wooden frames, and other tactile materials lend a weighty presence burnished by just the right amount of age. It’s the kind of place you might walk past without noticing, yet step closer and you feel its solid presence.

Dining Space

The interior of Torishige has a capacity of around 82 seats spread across the first and second floors, with counter and table seating arranged in a well-balanced layout.

Seating & Layout
  • There are 22 counter seats. These are the seats where you can watch the cooking up close, and the counters near the grill on both the first and second floors are especially popular. There’s a real pleasure in “watching” the grill work.

  • There are about 60 table seats. They’re spread across the first and second floors, with many hall-style tables on the second floor, making it well-suited for meals with multiple people or group use.

Atmosphere & Impression of the Space
  • Overall, the restaurant is full of “energy.” At the counter you feel the heat that is unique to seats facing the grill—the sounds of the grill, flames, smoke, and aromas of skewers finishing over the charcoal. The movements of the chefs’ hands and the sound of the fire stimulate all five senses with a vivid sense of immediacy.

  • At the tables, you’ll find more guests who want to enjoy their food and drinks and conversation at a slightly more relaxed pace, and it’s a space where groups can take their time. That said, the overall feel is lively and bustling rather than quiet—a place where food, drinks, and conversation all come together to create a cheerful buzz, rather than a restaurant meant for quiet recuperation.

Menu Presentation

The menu at Torishige is broadly divided into “course meals,” “grilled skewers, sashimi, and à-la-carte dishes,” “vegetables,” “shime (finishing dishes),” and “desserts,” offering everything from regular favorites to rare cuts and seasonal items. Its appeal lies in the variety that lets you enjoy different portions, price ranges, and shifts in flavor. Below are the specifics and recommended points.

Course Meals

There are several course options, making it easy to choose based on the purpose of your visit and your budget. Representative examples include:

  • Special Course: A course that includes six premium grilled items, sashimi, and zosui (rice porridge). It’s a lineup that lets you enjoy grilled dishes, sashimi, and a rice dish at the end.

  • Omakase Skewer Course: A course centered on skewers featuring Torishige’s classic and most popular items. Especially recommended for skewer lovers.

  • Upper 6-item / Upper 5-item / Upper 4-item Courses: For those who want to eat a bit more lightly with fewer items. These let you focus on enjoying the higher-tier grilled skewer menu.

  • Course with Sashimi: A type that adds sashimi to the basic course. A welcome option for those who want to savor pork and beef offal sashimi.

The price range is roughly from around ¥2,000 up to around ¥6,500–¥10,000, so there are options to suit different purposes and budgets.

For this visit, we chose the ¥9,800 chef’s omakase course put together by third-generation owner Yuji Sakamaki.
Because the contents vary depending on the day’s procurement and the season, what appears on the table is a surprise you look forward to as the meal unfolds.

In addition to the classic skewers, rare cuts, wagyu beef, and seasonal vegetables and seafood are woven into the menu, with dishes prepared using the best ingredients available that day arriving one after another. Each skewer finished at the grill is cooked differently, with the doneness tailored to the fattiness and texture of the meat. Sashimi, zosui, and dessert are also all fully integrated into the course, allowing you to enjoy the full “Torishige experience” from start to finish.

As the name “chef’s omakase” suggests, the real appeal of this course lies in entrusting everything to Mr. Sakamaki’s judgment—from offal skewers grilling right in front of you to the occasional surprise of luxury ingredients. Because the composition changes with each visit, it’s easy to see why this course is also favored by regulars.

Dishes We Actually Tasted

Otoshi: Onion and Gatsu Salad

The first dish to appear is the otoshi (table appetizer), a salad of onion and gatsu (pork stomach).
The sharp heat and sweetness of the crisp onion pair beautifully with the chewy texture of the gatsu. A light dressing with sesame and chili adds a subtle accent, whetting your appetite from the very first bite.

Even though it’s “just” an otoshi, it’s not a throwaway dish—it naturally sets your mindset to, “Now the skewers begin,” like an overture before the main performance.

Signature Liver Skewer

Early in the course comes the famous liver skewer.
The outside is seared quickly, while the inside is left softly half-rare. The precision of the cooking is outstanding—each bite releases sweetness and depth of flavor, with none of the unpleasant odor often associated with liver.

A dab of mustard or a squeeze of lemon refreshes your palate and makes you want another bite. The freshness and technique packed into this single skewer make it easy to understand why people say, “If you come to Torishige, you start with this.”

Upper Shiro

Next is the upper shiro (premium pork large intestine).
Thanks to meticulous prep, there is no off-odor at all, and the more you chew, the more umami and sweet fat seep out.

The surface is fragrant and crisp, while the inside has a pleasantly springy, gelatinous bounce. The house tare sauce coats it, wrapping the richness of the fat and leaving a surprisingly light finish. A touch of mustard sharpens the flavors even more, making it an excellent match with drinks.

This skewer really conveys the appeal of offal, and lets you experience the true essence of grilled skewers.

Tsukune

Next up is a beautifully grilled tsukune meatball skewer.
The coarsely ground meat mixture is firmly kneaded, so each bite lets you feel the grain of the meat, yet it still breaks apart softly in your mouth. The exterior is nicely charred, while the inside stays moist and juicy.

The sweetness of the tare sauce and the aroma of the charcoal combine to create a small, skewer-shaped hamburger-steak level of satisfaction. A little mustard tightens the finish even further and highlights how perfectly it pairs with alcohol.

Pickles

After a sequence of skewers, a plate of pickles arrives to reset the palate.
Lightly pickled cucumber, daikon, napa cabbage, and other vegetables form a simple assortment, but the gentle saltiness and natural juiciness of the vegetables are very pleasant.

Slotted in between rich, fatty skewers, it neatly refreshes your tastebuds and gets you ready for the next dish. It may not be flashy, but it’s an indispensable presence that supports the course as a whole.

Temple Meat

Next comes komakami, the pork temple meat at the base of the cheek.
It’s a muscular cut with just the right amount of fat marbling, offering a uniquely springy chew.

As you bite down, the meat’s flavor spreads gradually, and the aroma of the grilled green onion accentuates it. The balance between the meat and vegetables is excellent: it’s a skewer with a strong presence, yet the aftertaste is clean. It’s a dish that really showcases the depth possible with skewers.

Sirloin and Chateaubriand

In between the skewers, a plate of wagyu sirloin and chateaubriand makes an appearance.
The sirloin stands out for its sweet, aromatic fat, which melts in your mouth and spreads rich flavor. The chateaubriand, on the other hand, offers a supple red-meat texture and concentrated umami, showing off a completely different charm despite being from the same cow.

Paired with mustard and a bit of grated garlic, the flavor of the meat sharpens, preventing the fat from feeling heavy and allowing you to enjoy it right to the last bite. In the midst of a skewer-centered course, it’s a dish that lets you fully savor the depth of good beef.

Kurobuta Belly and Tofu, Sukiyaki Style

Partway through the course, we’re served a sukiyaki-style dish of kurobuta pork belly and tofu dipped in egg yolk.
The richly marbled black pork belly is meltingly tender, and when you eat it together with tofu soaked in a sweet-savory warishita sauce, the egg yolk envelops everything in a mellow richness.

On top of that, the fresh aroma of sansho peppercorn sprinkled over the dish adds a refreshing accent, keeping it from feeling heavy. Slotted between skewer courses, it brings a lush shift of tempo to the overall progression.

Ōtoro of Beef

Appearing between skewers is a luxurious cut of ōtoro of beef—a richly marbled section.
Even though it’s cooked through, the inside stays juicy, and the sweetness of the fat and the flavor of the red meat spread together in harmony.

The meat juices that flow with each bite are intense yet never cloying, balanced beautifully by the depth of the tare sauce and the sharp kick of mustard. Served in the simple form of a skewer, it still lets you fully appreciate the presence of the beef itself.

Stuffed Green Pepper

No visit to Torishige would be complete without their origin-story dish, the stuffed green pepper (pīman no nikuzume).
Green bell peppers are tightly packed with coarsely ground tsukune meat and grilled over charcoal until the surface is fragrant and coated in a sweet-savory tare sauce.

The gentle bitterness of the pepper and the rich flavor of the meat combine so that it never becomes monotonous, leaving you wanting the next bite. The charred edges add even more aroma, and the meat juices spread out as you chew.

This has been the restaurant’s signature dish since its founding, and it’s one that many guests make a point of ordering. You can really feel the history and pride of Torishige packed into this single skewer.

Chateaubriand (Encore)

Toward the end of the course, chateaubriand unexpectedly makes a second appearance.
The meat, cooked to a silky tenderness, is just as superb as before, with the strength and softness of the red meat really standing out.

We never did learn why it was served again, but this kind of happy surprise also feels very “Torishige.” That extra slice became a memorable little gift at the end of the evening.

Cartilage

Next we’re served a skewer of nankotsu (cartilage), prized for its crunchy texture.
The charred surface and the firm bite of the cartilage create a satisfying contrast.

It retains the umami of the meat while having the lightness unique to cartilage, helping to restore balance after a series of richer cuts. A touch of mustard gives it extra snap, making it an outstanding snack to go with drinks.

Assorted Offal Sashimi

Next comes an assortment of offal sashimi.
Pork stomach and uterus (kobukuro), and beef omasum (senmai) are laid out in colorful array and enjoyed together with egg yolk and condiments.

The crunchy senmai, the tender pork stomach, and the softer kobukuro each have clearly distinct textures and flavors, and their freshness really stands out.

There is no trace of odor—only umami that spreads as you chew, mellowed by the egg yolk. It’s a dish that lets you experience another side of offal, quite different from the grilled skewers.

Shiro-yaki

Next is the classic shiro-yaki skewer.
Carefully cleaned pork large intestine is grilled so that the outside is aromatic and the inside is soft and bouncy.

With each bite, the sweetness and umami of the fat seep out, and a squeeze of lemon brightens everything up. A bit of mustard adds more definition, making this a simple yet deeply flavorful skewer.

As a true classic of grilled offal, it’s something you really can’t leave out.

Caviar Onigiri

For the course’s rice dish, we’re treated to a luxurious caviar onigiri.
A bite-sized rice ball of glossy, perfectly cooked white rice wrapped in fragrant nori is topped with a spoonful of caviar.

The salty caviar highlights the natural sweetness of the rice, creating a simple yet special flavor. It takes on the lingering aromas of the skewers and meat dishes and carries them gently to a satisfying close.

Zosui (Rice Porridge) – Final Dish

The course ends with a choice of several different shime dishes. This time we opted for zosui (rice porridge).
Rice is simmered in a broth enriched with the flavors of chicken and pork, and finished with a scattering of nori and sesame.

After rich skewers and meat dishes, this gently flavored bowl soothes the stomach while still leaving a satisfying aftertaste. Within the carefully considered flow of the course, it’s a final dish that lets you exhale and relax.

Summary & Impressions

We enjoyed the chef’s omakase course at the long-established “Torishige” in Shinjuku.
From the opening otoshi of onion and gatsu, to the signature liver and shiro skewers, the coarsely ground tsukune, and even wagyu cuts like sirloin and chateaubriand, the course unfolded in ways that went far beyond the usual boundaries of grilled skewers.

Pickles, sukiyaki-style kurobuta belly, and ultra-fresh offal sashimi interspersed throughout the meal added rhythm and contrast, while the flagship “stuffed green pepper” left an especially strong impression. In that single skewer, with its charcoal aroma and juices locked inside the meat, you can feel the restaurant’s history and pride.

The interior is buzzing and lively, packed with guests and staff coming and going in constant motion. It’s striking how the current owner is clearly carrying on the old-school style while injecting his own evolution and energy to keep the place thriving.

There’s no showy gimmickry—just one carefully made dish after another building up to a deep sense of satisfaction.
It was an evening that really drove home why this restaurant has been loved for so many years.

Reservations & Access

How to Reserve
  • By phone: 03-3379-5188. The listing notes that inquiries can be made from 11:00 onward.

  • Online: reservations are accepted via AutoReserve.

  • Notes: It’s extremely popular, so advance reservations are recommended. As there may be temporary closures or heavy crowding, it’s best to allow plenty of time for calls and visits on the day.

Book via AutoReserve
Access
  • Address: 2-6-5 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo.

  • Nearest station: About a 2-minute walk from JR Shinjuku Station South Exit (also accessible from the Odakyu and Keio lines via the South Exit).

  • Parking: None. Use of public transportation is recommended.

Opening Hours / Regular Holidays
  • Opening hours: Monday–Saturday, 17:00–00:00 as a general guideline.
    Another source notes “17:00–1:00 the following day (last order 24:00).”

  • Closed: Sundays (with possible closures on public holidays or for special circumstances).

Best Time to Book

Torishige is a popular restaurant that’s busy on both weekdays and weekends, and reservations in particular tend to cluster around 7:00 p.m.
If you have a preferred time slot,
booking 1–2 weeks in advance is your safest bet.

On the other hand,

  • earlier time slots (17:00–18:00)

  • and after 21:00

tend to be relatively easier to book.
Sometimes last-minute openings do appear, so it’s worth calling on the day to check.

Recommended Seats

If you want to fully experience Torishige,
the first-floor counter seats facing the grill are the top recommendation.

You feel the aroma of the charcoal, the sound of grilling, and the rhythm of the staff’s movements—
it’s the perfect place to soak in the atmosphere of a long-standing shop in action.

Conversely,

  • for a more relaxed conversation

  • or for group visits,
    the second-floor table seats are more suitable.

Typical Crowding
  • It’s often fully booked even on weekdays

  • Guests are constantly coming and going,
    and there’s always a lively, bustling atmosphere

Also, by the nature of the restaurant,
the peak around 8:00 p.m. is when it’s most crowded, and dishes may come out a bit more slowly,
so for those who prefer a calmer meal, earlier time slots are better.

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MIZUMACHI
"A Hidden Gastronomic Journey—A Special Experience to Savor with All Five Senses"
BISHOKU QUEST is a gourmet exploration project that takes you on a journey through Japan’s most exceptional and undiscovered culinary destinations.

We carefully curate hidden-gem restaurants, where chefs showcase their passion and dedication, as well as dining experiences that allow you to immerse yourself in local culture and history through food. Each location highlights regional ingredients and offers a deeper connection to the land, making every meal more than just a dish—it becomes a story to be experienced.

For those who love food, BISHOKU QUEST promises new discoveries and unforgettable moments in the world of fine dining.