CONTENTS
About ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA
Concept
ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA is a restaurant jointly created by Chef Kei Kobayashi—renowned as the first Asian chef to earn three Michelin stars in France—and Toraya, a traditional Japanese confectionery shop with a history dating back to the late Muromachi period.
The “C” in the restaurant’s name stands for both “cuisine” and “creation.” At the heart of the space is a large open kitchen, reflecting its emphasis on culinary artistry and transparency.
Unlike traditional course menus, the restaurant offers an à la carte style. Guests can choose their preferred ingredients and enjoy dishes that bring out the essence and full potential of each one.
With the concept of a “Gastronomic Laboratory,” the restaurant embraces innovation and tradition in equal measure—pursuing new expressions of gastronomy that transcend the boundaries of French cuisine, all in the culturally rich setting of Ginza.
Chef Masahisa Sugimoto
After graduating from culinary school, Chef Masahisa Sugimoto gained experience at various hotels before training at the famed Hôtel de Mikuni. In 2010, he moved to Switzerland and France to deepen his understanding of local cuisines.
From 2015, he served as Executive Chef at Hotel New Otani Takaoka for five years. He later joined the launch team of Maison KEI in 2021 as sous-chef and trained at Restaurant KEI in Paris. He is now the head chef at ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA in Tokyo’s Ginza district.
Chef Sugimoto embodies Chef Kobayashi’s philosophy, delivering innovative cuisine that goes beyond the boundaries of French tradition through free and creative expression.
Chef Kei Kobayashi
Chef Kei Kobayashi made history in 2020 as the first Asian chef to receive three Michelin stars in France. His restaurant, Restaurant KEI in Paris, has retained its three-star status for five consecutive years.
In the film Grand Maison Paris, released on December 30, 2024, Chef Kobayashi served as culinary director, overseeing all the dishes featured in the movie. The film is a sequel to the 2019 drama Grand Maison Tokyo, in which actor Takuya Kimura reprises his role as Chef Natsuki Obana, embarking on a new culinary journey in Paris.
In conjunction with the film’s release, a special menu supervised by Chef Kobayashi has been made available—allowing guests to savor the world of the movie through an immersive dining experience.
Restaurant Evaluation
In the Michelin Guide, ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA is praised as “a place where tradition and innovation coexist in Ginza, offering à la carte dishes filled with creativity under the concept of a ‘Gastronomic Laboratory.’”
Overall, the restaurant is highly regarded for its inventive cuisine and sophisticated ambiance, providing guests with a truly exceptional dining experience.
Dining Prelude
Exterior & Entrance
ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA is located on the 11th floor of the Toraya Ginza Building in Tokyo’s Ginza district.
The entrance can be found halfway along Suzuran-dori, a side street just off the main Chuo-dori.
Guests can take a dedicated elevator located at the back of the ground-floor entrance directly to the restaurant on the 11th floor.
Dining Space
The interior design harmoniously blends France’s stone culture with Japan’s wood culture, creating a refined and balanced atmosphere.
The thoughtful integration of stone and wood results in a space that feels both grounded and warm—an elegant expression of cross-cultural design that complements the restaurant’s culinary philosophy.
At the center of the restaurant is a large open kitchen, allowing guests to enjoy the dynamic, live atmosphere of the culinary preparations as they unfold.
Menu Presentation
At ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA, guests are offered a wide variety of dishes in an à la carte format rather than a fixed course menu.
From appetizers to main dishes and desserts, diners can freely customize their meal according to their preferences.
For meat-based main dishes, several cuts are presented tableside, allowing guests to select their preferred option.
Additionally, sauces and condiments can be chosen to suit one’s taste—ranging from simple jus to fresh Japanese seasonings such as sanshō pepper, yuzu kosho, or grated daikon with ponzu.
This personalized approach allows each guest to enjoy a uniquely tailored dining experience, aligned with their mood and palate on the day of the visit.
Furthermore, to commemorate the release of the film Grand Maison Paris, a limited-time menu inspired by dishes featured in the movie is being offered—bringing the cinematic world of gastronomy to the table.
Starter Drink
Among the three types of Champagne offered, I chose BOLLINGER.
With its elegant and vibrant aroma, it set the perfect tone for a special evening.
(Unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo.)
Dishes I Enjoyed
Red Shiso Granité
The à la carte experience at ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA began with a vivid Red Shiso Granité.
Made with red shiso juice, umeshu (plum wine), and plum vinegar, this dish had a pleasantly sharp acidity. The crisp texture combined with the delicate aroma of shiso created a refreshing start to the meal.
This granité also appeared in the film Grand Maison Paris, adding a sense of cinematic magic to the experience. Being able to taste a dish featured on screen heightened the sense of anticipation for what was to come.
Yogurt Mousse with Smoked Spanish Mackerel Tart
Hidden within the smooth yogurt mousse is delicately smoked sawara (Spanish mackerel), where the gentle tanginess of the mousse beautifully complements the savory, smoky aroma of the fish.
The creamy texture of the mousse paired with the crisp tart shell creates a delightful contrast—making this amuse-bouche both playful and refined.
Nanshu Kurobuta Prosciutto with Bamboo Charcoal Gnocco Fritto
Another standout finger food featured prosciutto made from Nanshu Kurobuta, a premium Japanese black pork.
Nestled between slices of this tender, flavorful ham is a vivid basil sauce, adding a burst of refreshing aroma.
The surprise element lies within—a bamboo charcoal gnocco fritto tucked inside.
Its crisp exterior and fluffy interior offer a delightful textural contrast, enhancing the savory depth of the prosciutto and the freshness of the basil.
Though seemingly simple, the brilliance of this dish lies in its thoughtful pairing of ingredients and textures.
The concentrated umami of the Nanshu Kurobuta, the vibrant basil, and the subtle toasty aroma of bamboo charcoal intertwine beautifully, leaving a lasting and layered finish on the palate.
After the Champagne, I chose a glass of Planeta Chardonnay 2022.
This Chardonnay from Menfi, Sicily, is known for its rich fruit character and the luxurious aroma imparted by barrel aging.
A truly excellent glass that set the stage for the courses to follow—promising delightful pairings with the upcoming dishes.
Monaka with Crystal Caviar, Hairy Crab from Funka Bay, and Gribiche Sauce
Inside a delicate monaka wafer embossed with the KEI logo lies a generous filling of hairy crab from Funka Bay, Hokkaido.
The crab’s naturally sweet, refined flavor is elevated by a tangy gribiche sauce, offering a refreshing contrast.
To crown the dish, Crystal Caviar—personally selected by Chef Kei Kobayashi—is lavishly placed on top, with a final touch of edible gold leaf for an added sense of opulence.
The interplay between the crisp wafer, the tender richness of the crab, and the briny pop of caviar creates a luxurious harmony in a single bite.
Deceptively simple in appearance, this dish is a masterclass in refined composition and flavor balance.
This rustic rye campagne bread is crafted by Boulangerie Pâtisserie Adachi, located in Gotemba City, Shizuoka Prefecture.
Its hearty texture and subtly tangy flavor make it a perfect accompaniment to refined dishes, reflecting the bakery’s artisanal quality and attention to detail.
This exceptional olive oil from CEDRIC CASANOVA is made using high-quality olives grown in Sicily.
Renowned for its freshness and depth of flavor, the oil reflects a meticulous dedication to quality—from the selection of olives to the pressing process—offering vibrant aromas and a clean, elegant finish.
Consommé of Free-Range Chicken and Beef
This crystal-clear amber consommé exudes an exquisite aroma, offering a truly refined sip.
Its profound umami is elevated by the richness and complexity of whisky—specifically, the Johnnie Walker Blue Series, created in collaboration with Chef Kei Kobayashi.
The whisky imparts a deep, layered character to the broth, adding warmth, roundness, and aromatic sophistication.
At the bottom of the bowl, thin slices of black truffle are delicately arranged. As the consommé is poured tableside, the truffle’s luxurious aroma rises, mingling with the whisky’s subtle smokiness.
Each spoonful delivers a harmonious fusion of deep savory notes, rich truffle, and a lingering, elegant finish—an indulgent and thoughtfully orchestrated experience.
Johnnie Walker Blue Label Umami
This special edition of Johnnie Walker Blue Label—“Umami”—was developed in collaboration with Chef Kei Kobayashi.
Blended with the concept of savoriness at its core, Blue Label Umami explores the fifth taste through a masterful balance of richness, depth, and elegance.
It features notes of seaweed, aged soy, and charred oak, harmonized with dark fruits and subtle smokiness—designed to pair seamlessly with haute cuisine.
This rare expression elevates the dining experience by echoing the complexity and finesse of the dishes it accompanies.
Next, I ordered a glass of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars AVETA 2022—a Sauvignon Blanc from Napa Valley, California.
This wine is characterized by its vibrant fruitiness and beautifully balanced acidity, offering a fresh and elegant profile that pairs wonderfully with refined cuisine.
Crispy-Skin Splendid Alfonsino from Yaizu’s Sasue Maeda Fish Shop, with Squid Ink Pistou
Next came a dish featuring splendid alfonsino (kinmedai) sourced from the renowned Sasue Maeda Fish Shop in Yaizu, Shizuoka.
Expertly cooked to perfection, the fish was served with its scales crisply seared, creating a delightful contrast between a crackling, fragrant exterior and a juicy, tender interior.
This preparation highlighted the natural richness of the kinmedai, offering a luxurious harmony of texture and flavor.
Paired with a squid ink pistou, the dish gained added depth and umami, bridging land and sea in a beautifully composed plate.
What elevates the splendid alfonsino is the accompanying squid ink pistou sauce.
The herbal brightness of basil merges seamlessly with the rich umami of squid ink, creating a deeply flavorful and nuanced accompaniment that perfectly enhances the fish without overpowering its delicate character.
To finish, the dish is garnished with finger lime and citrus, adding a burst of refreshing acidity and a playful, popping texture.
These bright accents provide a perfect counterbalance to the richness of the fish and sauce, enhancing the overall harmony of the plate.
Omar Bleu Prawn Fry with Bisque Soup
This luxurious dish features Omar Bleu, the finest blue lobster from Normandy, France, prepared as a special fried prawn coated in a batter infused with bamboo charcoal.
Its striking visual presentation is matched by its flavor—the rich, naturally sweet taste of the lobster and its firm, succulent texture take center stage.
Though seemingly simple, the dish is a masterclass in balance and restraint, with each bite revealing layers of carefully calibrated flavor.
An indulgent and unforgettable interpretation of an elevated ebi-fry.
The accompanying gribiche sauce adds a touch of brightness and lightness to the dish, balancing the richness of the fried lobster.
To elevate it even further, a generous spoonful of Crystal Caviar, hand-selected by Chef Kei Kobayashi, is added—bringing a luxurious, briny accent that completes this refined and indulgent creation.
The flavor—an exquisite fusion of delicacy and intensity—seemed to echo the very theme of the film itself.
It was more than just a dish; it was a storytelling experience on the plate, inviting reflection and emotion with every bite.
A truly special moment that connected cuisine and narrative in a profound way.
Crispy and aromatic on the outside, the inside bursts with the juicy, succulent umami of the lobster—an irresistible contrast that delights from the very first bite.
A luxurious bisque soup that captures the full essence of Omar Bleu, leaving nothing to waste.
Brimming with the rich flavor of shellfish, each spoonful offers deep, layered complexity—an indulgent expression of the sea’s bounty in its most concentrated and elegant form.
For the main meat course, I chose a true gem from Piedmont, Italy:
Borgogno Barolo 2019.
This iconic Barolo offers the structure, depth, and elegance that perfectly complement richly flavored meats.
With its refined tannins, dark fruit notes, and hints of spice and earth, it elevated the dining experience with classic Italian finesse.
Charcoal-Grilled “Tsumugi Wagyu” from Toriyama Farm
This exquisite cut of Tsumugi Wagyu from Toriyama Farm is slowly grilled over charcoal to perfection.
Before serving, the freshly cooked meat is presented tableside, showcasing its beautifully seared exterior and releasing an enticing aroma of smoked rice straw that heightens anticipation for the first bite.
Enhancing the rich umami of the Wagyu is a classic béarnaise sauce,
its silky texture and balanced acidity perfectly complementing the tender, flavorful meat and adding a refined, indulgent finish to each bite.
Adding another layer of depth is the jus de veau—a velvety veal reduction that brings out the savory richness of the Wagyu while introducing a subtle complexity.
Together with the béarnaise, it creates a dynamic interplay of flavors that evolves with every bite.
In addition, a trio of condiments—watercress, horseradish, and mustard—is provided to further enhance the experience.
Each element brings its own distinct character, offering refreshing bitterness, sharp heat, or tangy depth, allowing diners to enjoy a variety of flavor profiles with every bite of the Wagyu.
As a side, I chose the potato purée with black truffle—and it was absolutely outstanding.
The purée was luxuriously creamy, infused with the deep, earthy aroma of black truffle, leaving a lingering richness on the palate.
Whether paired with the Wagyu or savored on its own, it delivered pure indulgence in every spoonful—a flawless complement to the main dish.
The steak knife engraved with the name “KEI” was crafted by Ryusen Hamono, a renowned knife maker from Fukui Prefecture known for its Echizen forged blades, which trace their origins to traditional Japanese swords.
The blade features a beautifully intricate hamon (temper line) pattern, combining artistry and precision in a design that reflects both heritage and craftsmanship.
Dessert & Finale
Vacherin
The grand finale at ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA is none other than the signature dessert also served at Restaurant KEI in Paris: the Vacherin.
A traditional French dessert, the vacherin typically consists of baked meringue paired with cream and ice cream. Here, it is reimagined with Chef Kei Kobayashi’s refined and elegant touch—resulting in a dish that is as visually stunning as it is delicate in flavor.
The meringue is baked to a light crisp and melts gracefully on the tongue, while the smooth ice cream and rich cream intertwine in perfect harmony.
What makes this rendition truly unique is the finishing touch: a sauce made with Toraya’s signature sweet red bean paste, infusing the dessert with a subtle Japanese essence and transforming it into an entirely new and unforgettable experience.
Ginza Pudding
Served in a charming egg-shaped vessel, this pudding is characterized by its silky-smooth texture and elegant sweetness.
Refined and comforting, it’s a delightful treat that perfectly embodies the understated luxury of Ginza.
As a post-meal sweet, a financier is served—
but with a uniquely Japanese twist: it’s filled with sweet red bean paste from the long-established wagashi shop, Toraya.
This exquisite confection beautifully fuses French pâtisserie technique with traditional Japanese flavors, offering a harmonious and memorable end to the dining experience.
Summary & Impressions
A Luxurious À la Carte Experience
At ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA, the freedom of choosing each dish à la carte was one of the restaurant’s most appealing features.
In the open kitchen, the lively calls of “Oui, Chef!” echo—a testament to the team’s commitment to Chef Kei Kobayashi’s philosophy, now brought to life and elevated by Chef Masahisa Sugimoto in the heart of Ginza.
While faithfully recreating the essence of Chef Kobayashi’s world, Chef Sugimoto introduces subtle Japanese elements that make each dish truly unique—creations that can only be experienced here.
Classical French techniques are fused with bold creativity, and every plate is crafted with thoughtful simplicity that highlights the ingredients’ natural character through meticulously balanced flavors.
One of the evening’s most special highlights was the opportunity to taste dishes featured in the film Grand Maison Paris—making the dinner not only delicious, but emotionally resonant as well.
Reservations & Access Information
How to Reserve:
Reservations can be made via the official website or by phone.
Phone reservation hours: 1:00 PM – 9:00 PM (closed on Sundays and Mondays)
Address:
11th Floor, Toraya Ginza Building, 7-8-17 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Nearest Station:
5-minute walk from Exit A2 of Ginza Station (Tokyo Metro Ginza, Hibiya, and Marunouchi Lines)
Opening Hours:
Tuesday – Saturday: 5:30 PM – 11:00 PM (Last order: 8:30 PM)
Closed on Sundays and Mondays
For more details and the latest updates, please refer to the official website.
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