CONTENTS
About ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA
Concept
ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA is a restaurant born from the collaboration between Chef Kei Kobayashi, the first Asian chef to earn three Michelin stars in France, and Toraya, a traditional Japanese confectionery house founded in the late Muromachi period.
The “C” in the restaurant’s name stands for both “cuisine” and “creation,” and at the heart of the restaurant sits a large open kitchen that embodies this philosophy.
Rather than a fixed tasting menu, the restaurant offers an à la carte format, allowing guests to select their preferred ingredients and enjoy dishes crafted to draw out each ingredient’s fullest expression.
Guided by the concept of a “laboratory of gastronomy,” the restaurant pursues culinary innovation that transcends the boundaries of classic French cuisine, set against the backdrop of Ginza, a district where tradition and innovation coexist.
Chef Masahisa Sugimoto
After graduating from culinary school, Chef Sugimoto honed his craft at various hotels before training at “Hôtel de Mikuni.” From 2010, he studied local cuisine in Switzerland and France, and from 2015 spent five years as head chef at “Hotel New Otani Takaoka.” He then joined the launch team of “Maison KEI,” which opened in 2021, as sous chef, and after training at “Restaurant KEI” in Paris, now serves as head chef of “ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA” in Ginza, Tokyo.
Chef Sugimoto embodies Chef Kobayashi’s culinary philosophy, delivering dishes that pursue gastronomic innovation with a free-spirited approach that goes beyond the conventions of French cuisine.
Chef Kei Kobayashi
Chef Kei Kobayashi made history in 2020 as the first Asian chef to earn three Michelin stars in Paris, France. His restaurant, “Restaurant KEI,” has since maintained its three-star status for five consecutive years.
In the film “Grand Maison Paris,” released on December 30, 2024, Chef Kobayashi served as culinary supervisor, crafting the dishes featured on screen. The film is a sequel to the 2019 television drama “Grand Maison Tokyo,” which follows Chef Natsuki Obana, played by Takuya Kimura, as he takes on a new challenge in Paris, France. To coincide with the film’s release, a special menu supervised by Chef Kobayashi is being offered, allowing diners to experience the world of the film firsthand.
Restaurant Reviews
The Michelin Guide describes the restaurant as offering “creative à la carte dishes under the concept of a ‘laboratory of gastronomy,’ set in Ginza, where tradition and novelty coexist.” Overall, the restaurant is praised for delivering a truly special dining experience through its original cuisine and refined atmosphere.
Dining Prelude
Exterior & Entrance
ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA is located on the 11th floor of the Toraya Ginza Building in Ginza, Tokyo. The entrance sits midway along Suzuran-dori, a street just off the main Chuo-dori avenue. From the entrance on the ground floor, a direct elevator takes guests straight up to the restaurant on the 11th floor.
The Dining Space
The interior design fuses French stone culture with Japanese wood culture, creating a new kind of harmony between stone and timber.
At the center of the restaurant stands a large open kitchen, letting guests savor the vibrant energy of the cooking as it unfolds before them.
The Menu Experience
Rather than a set course, ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA offers a diverse array of dishes in an à la carte format, allowing guests to compose their own meal from starters to main courses and desserts. For the main meat course, several cuts are brought out and presented to guests, who choose their preferred selection on the spot. Sauces and accompaniments can also be customized to taste, with options ranging from a simple jus to fresh sansho pepper, yuzu kosho, and grated ponzu. This style of service allows for a deeply personalized dining experience, tailored to one’s mood and preferences on any given evening. To coincide with the release of “Grand Maison Paris,” a limited-time menu paying homage to dishes featured in the film is also being offered.
Starting Drink
Among three champagne options, I chose “BOLLINGER.” Its fragrant, elegant bouquet set the tone for a special evening ahead. Unfortunately, I forgot to snap a photo of it.
The Dishes
Red Shiso Granité
The à la carte journey at ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA opens with a vividly colored red shiso granité. Made with red shiso juice blended with plum wine and plum vinegar, the dish strikes a gentle, well-balanced acidity. Its icy, shaved texture releases a delicate waft of shiso aroma, offering a refreshing overture to the meal.
This granité also appeared in the film “Grand Maison Paris” — the chance to actually taste a dish from the screen added a special sense of anticipation to the evening.
Yogurt Mousse and Smoked Spanish Mackerel Tart
Beneath the silky mousse lies a delicately smoked Spanish mackerel, its light acidity harmonizing beautifully with the smoky depth. The creamy texture of the mousse against the crisp tart shell makes for a playful and satisfying amuse-bouche.
Nanshu Kurobuta Prosciutto with Bamboo Charcoal Gnocco Fritto
Another finger food highlight featured Nanshu Kurobuta prosciutto — tender, moist ham layered with a vibrant basil sauce that lent a burst of freshness.
A delightful surprise awaited within: a bamboo charcoal gnocco fritto tucked inside. The contrast between its crisp exterior and pillowy interior added playful texture, further elevating the richness of the prosciutto and the brightness of the basil.
A deceptively simple dish, elevated by masterful pairing of ingredients and texture.
The concentrated umami of the Nanshu Kurobuta, the freshness of the basil, and the subtle smokiness of the bamboo charcoal combined in perfect harmony, leaving a lingering, memorable finish.
Following the champagne, I chose the Planeta Chardonnay 2022 — a Chardonnay from Menfi, Sicily, marked by rich fruit character and lush oak-aged aromatics. A wonderful glass, one that promised a beautiful pairing with the dishes to come.
Monaka Stuffed with Hokkaido Funka Bay Hairy Crab, Crystal Caviar, and Gribiche Sauce
Inside a monaka wafer stamped with the “KEI” logo lies a generous filling of hairy crab from Funka Bay, Hokkaido. A gribiche sauce with bright acidity enhances the crab’s delicate sweetness, while a luxurious topping of Chef Kei Kobayashi’s carefully selected crystal caviar — finished with a dusting of gold leaf — completes the dish.
The airy crunch of the monaka, the succulent sweetness of the hairy crab, and the salinity of the caviar come together in a single bite of pure indulgence. Deceptively simple, yet meticulously composed — a dish that showcases refined culinary precision.
Rye campagne bread from “Boulangerie Pâtisserie Adachi” in Gotemba, Shizuoka Prefecture.
Extra virgin olive oil from CEDRIC CASANOVA, crafted from high-quality Sicilian olives with a focus on freshness and flavor.
Free-Range Chicken and Beef Consommé
A clear amber consommé releases an exquisite aroma from the very first sip — truly a cup of pure luxury. Supporting the depth of this soup’s umami is the richness and complexity of whisky — specifically, the “Johnnie Walker Blue Series,” created in collaboration between Chef Kei Kobayashi and Johnnie Walker. The whisky’s rich character adds another dimension to the consommé, layering the flavor with remarkable depth.
At the bottom of the bowl lies a bed of sliced black truffle, and the consommé is poured tableside, releasing its rich aroma right before your eyes. The smoky nuance of the whisky melds beautifully with the deep fragrance of black truffle, leaving a luxurious, lingering finish with every sip.
Johnnie Walker Blue Label Umami
For my next glass, I chose the Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars AVETA 2022 — a Sauvignon Blanc from Napa Valley, California, celebrated for its fresh fruit character and beautiful acidity.
Scale-Seared Kinmedai (Splendid Alfonsino) from Sasue Maeda Fish Shop, Squid Ink Pistou
Next came a dish featuring kinmedai (splendid alfonsino) sourced from “Sasue Maeda Fish Shop” in Yaizu, Shizuoka. Delicately cooked, the scale-seared fish achieved a beautifully crisp exterior while retaining its succulent juiciness — a truly indulgent bite.
Complementing the kinmedai is a squid ink pistou sauce, where the aromatic basil and the deep richness of squid ink merge to create a layered, complex flavor.
Finished with finger lime and citrus, the dish gains a bright acidity and a delightful pop of texture as an accent.
Blue Lobster Ebi Fry with Bisque Soup
A lavish use of premium blue lobster from Normandy, France, coated in a bamboo charcoal batter and deep-fried to create a signature ebi fry. Beyond its striking visual impact, the dish shines through the blue lobster’s rich sweetness and satisfyingly firm texture.
Deceptively simple yet meticulously balanced in flavor — every bite of this luxurious ebi fry brought a new wave of delight.
The accompanying gribiche sauce adds a light, bright acidity, while Chef Kei Kobayashi’s carefully selected crystal caviar contributes a luxurious final accent.
A flavor that fused delicacy and boldness in equal measure, almost as if echoing the very themes of the film itself — a special experience that invited reflection on its own story even while eating.
Crisp and fragrant on the outside, with the juicy sweetness of the lobster spreading through with every bite.
A luxurious bisque soup that fully concentrates the umami of the blue lobster. Its rich shellfish flavor unfolds with every sip, revealing new layers of depth.
For my meat course pairing, I chose a true treasure of Piedmont, Italy: “Borgogno Barolo 2019.”
Charcoal-Grilled Toriyama Farm “Tsumugi Wagyu”
Slowly cooked over binchotan charcoal, the “Tsumugi Wagyu” from Toriyama Farm is presented tableside fresh off the grill, its beautifully caramelized surface and the rising fragrance of rice-straw smoke building anticipation before the first bite.
A béarnaise sauce draws out the wagyu’s rich umami to its fullest.
A jus de veau adds yet another layer of flavor variation.
Accompanying condiments of watercress, horseradish, and mustard each bring their own distinct accent, allowing the flavors to evolve with every bite.
For my side dish, I chose the black truffle potato purée — and it was absolutely outstanding. The creamy purée, infused with the rich fragrance of black truffle, left a luxurious lingering finish. Whether paired with the meat or enjoyed on its own, it was simply exceptional.
The steak knife, engraved with the “KEI” mark, was crafted by “Ryusen Hamono” of Fukui Prefecture, using techniques rooted in Echizen bladesmithing that trace back to Japanese swordmaking — its delicate wave pattern (hamon) forming a beautifully refined design.
Dessert & Finale
Vacherin
The meal at ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA closes with the same signature dessert served at “Restaurant KEI” in Paris: the vacherin.
A classic French dessert composed of baked meringue layered with cream and ice cream, here it receives Chef Kei Kobayashi’s elegant touch, resulting in a dish as visually stunning as it is delicately flavored.
The light, crisply baked meringue dissolves effortlessly in the mouth, melding beautifully with the smooth ice cream and rich cream. This particular vacherin is finished with a sauce made from Toraya’s signature anko (sweet red bean paste), infusing the dish with a Japanese essence and creating an entirely new dessert experience.
Ginza Pudding
Silky in texture with an elegant sweetness, served in an adorable egg-shaped vessel.
To close the meal, a financier is served alongside tea. This financier is filled with anko from the venerable Japanese confectionery house “Toraya,” beautifully marrying French pastry technique with Japanese tradition.
Final Thoughts
A Luxurious À La Carte Experience
What made ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA truly special was the freedom that comes with its à la carte format. In this kitchen, the chefs’ calls of “Oui, chef” echo throughout the space — a testament to how Chef Masahisa Sugimoto has inherited Chef Kei Kobayashi’s philosophy while cultivating his own distinct expression here in Ginza.
While faithfully honoring Chef Kobayashi’s culinary world, Chef Sugimoto’s cooking incorporates Japanese elements, resulting in dishes that can truly only be experienced here. Classic technique meets original creativity, and in the apparent simplicity of each dish lies a meticulously calculated composition that draws out the very best of every ingredient. Being able to actually taste dishes that appeared in “Grand Maison Paris” made this particular dinner all the more special.
Reservation & Access Information
Reservations:
Bookings can be made via the official website‘s reservation page, or by phone.
Phone reservations are accepted from 13:00–21:00 (closed Sundays and Mondays).
Access Information:
Address: Toraya Ginza Building, 11F, 7-8-17 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Nearest Station: 5-minute walk from Exit A2 of Ginza Station (Tokyo Metro Ginza, Hibiya, and Marunouchi Lines)
Hours:
Tuesday–Saturday: 17:30–23:00 (Last Order 20:30)
Closed: Sundays and Mondays
For the latest details, please check the official website.
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