CONTENTS
About Shiro
Concept
“shiro” is a restaurant opened by Chef Atsushi Takenaka in August 2024 in the Karasuma Oike area of Kyoto. Chef Takenaka, native to Hamada City in Shimane Prefecture, is renowned for dishes that make the most of local ingredients. The name “shiro,” meaning the color white, represents purity and simplicity; the crisp white interiors and plating that leaves generous negative space embody this ethos.
Chef Atsushi Takenaka
Chef Atsushi Takenaka followed an unconventional path, continuing his training in Italian cuisine while working in the corporate world after graduating from university, before transitioning to become a professional chef at age 24.
He then opened “Mia paese,” an Italian restaurant in Hamada City, Shimane Prefecture, earning high acclaim for its creative dishes that showcase the region’s fresh local produce.
In August 2024, aiming for new heights, he launched the restaurant “shiro” in Kyoto’s Karasuma Oike district. This establishment offers an omakase course that fuses carefully selected ingredients from Shimane and Kyoto.
Chef Takenaka’s cuisine is characterized by genre-free dishes—rooted in Italian techniques yet incorporating elements of Japanese and French cooking—respecting each ingredient’s natural flavors to achieve depth through simplicity.
He also served as culinary director for JR West’s luxury sleeper train TWILIGHT EXPRESS Mizukaze, creating dishes under the theme “Quality of Home,” highlighting the natural bounty of the San’in region.
Restaurant Accolades
Both “Mia paese” and “shiro,” led by Chef Takenaka, have received significant recognition.
“Mia paese,” located in Hamada City, Shimane, was selected among Tabelog’s Top 100 Italian Restaurants West in 2023 and featured in the French restaurant guide Gault&Millau.
Shortly after opening in August 2024, “shiro” was chosen as a Selected Restaurant in the Michelin Guide in November of the same year, praised for its inventive cuisine and refined atmosphere.
Dining Prelude
Exterior & Entrance
“shiro” is located on the second floor of the cultural complex IDO KYOTO in Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto. The exterior evokes the understated elegance of a traditional Kyoto machiya townhouse, blending harmoniously with its surroundings. The entrance’s minimalist yet sophisticated design sets a serene and exclusive tone. Within the facility, a well supplies spring water to each establishment, reflecting attention to detail and a connection to the earth.
Dining Space
The dining area of “shiro” features a clean, white palette and simple, refined design. Solid wood furnishings add warmth to the space. A six-seat counter wraps around a fully open kitchen, allowing guests to experience the live action of the chef’s craft up close.
The metal rods used as cutlery rests are actually lead type sorts from traditional letterpress printing—the patina of these well-worn metal pieces complements the restaurant’s tranquil ambiance.
Menu Presentation
The menu lists unique ingredients such as Yoroitachiuo (armor ribbonfish), wild boar, and Sukuna pumpkin, accented by winter citrus like buntan (pomelo) and other fresh fruit. Dining at “shiro” is not just about savoring dishes but experiencing the atmosphere and lingering aftertaste. In the spirit of “feeling something when nothing seems to be there,” each course invites guests to return to the essence of eating, offering moments of discovery with every plate.
Starter Drink
The meal begins with a glass of Leonce d’Albe Blanc de Noirs, a Blanc de Noirs Champagne.
Actual Tasting Menu
Jerusalem Artichoke & Ginkgo
A simple composition that brings out the pure flavor of IDO KYOTO’s spring water. The soup uses katsuobushi from Makurazaki and two-year-aged kombu from Hokkaido, blended into a “1.5 dashi” (combining first and second stocks) that balances the kombu’s umami with the katsuobushi’s rich aroma. This dashi highlights the earthy sweetness of the Jerusalem artichoke and the bittersweet note of ginkgo nuts.
Conger Eel & Prosciutto
This dish features large conger eel from Ota Port in Shimane Prefecture, also served on the TWILIGHT EXPRESS Mizukaze luxury train. The eel’s delicate texture is achieved by meticulous knife work to remove the bones, then topped with thin slices of black pork prosciutto. The prosciutto’s fat melts gently from the warmth of the fried eel, releasing fragrance and richness.
Armor Ribbonfish & Turnip
Yoroitachiuo, a deep-sea fish known for its hard, armor-like skin, is steamed with Kyoto turnips, turnip greens, and herbs to meld the vegetables’ sweetness with the fish’s savoriness. This unique take on Italian acqua pazza distills the essence of fish, shellfish, semi-dried tomatoes, garlic, olives, and capers into a concentrated sauce that is strained and thickened, then poured over the fish to envelop it in a velvety umami-rich finish.
Paired resumption:
Sake “Naruka” Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu from Higashinada Brewing in Chiba Prefecture, noted for its robust body and fresh profile.
Wild Boar & Cavolo Nero with Red Sansho
Slow-cooked wild boar from Misato Town in Shimane Prefecture, enriched with vegetables and the aromatic kick of Japanese pepper (sansho), evokes the flavors of winter’s bounty. The lingering peppery finish harmonizes the components into a refined ensemble.
Paired with Australia’s natural wine “LATTA Rattlesnake Blanc Contact 2021,” an orange wine whose complex aromas extend the sansho’s finish.
Monkfish, Leek & Tagliolini
Tagliolini, a thin hand-rolled pasta, captures the sauce beautifully. Gelatin-rich monkfish from Hamada Port is simmered with clam broth and Kameoka-grown white leeks, then tossed with fresh tagliolini. The dish is finished with shavings of fully ripened sudachi vinegar from Hamada and crisped pea shoots, adding brightness and depth through a contrast of textures and aromas.
The interplay of al dente tagliolini and toasted pea shoots creates a simple yet profound lingering taste.
Paired with Cinque Terre 2021, a white wine from Italy’s Liguria coast known for its mineral character and refreshing acidity.
Sukuna Pumpkin Ricotta Tortelli
Filled tortelli made with sweet Sukunakabocha squash and ricotta, topped with a creamy gorgonzola sauce and layered with the aromatic broth of truffles and meat, offering a symphony of fragrance and umami. This was the favorite dish of the course.
Paired with Ezio Trinchero Rosso del Noce III, a natural red wine from Piedmont, renowned for its ripe fruit sweetness, spice notes, and pleasant acidity.
Vegan bread made without animal fats, showcasing the power of natural ingredients.
The sauce was so delicious I couldn’t stop sopping it up with the scarpetta.
Sweet Sea Bream, Turnip & Pomelo
Using line-caught amadai (tilefish) from Hamada Port, the fish is grilled with scales on for a crispy, fragrant skin, complemented by rare-cooked flesh. Turnip sheets, subtly bitter pomelo sauce, and Kujo leek oil create layers of texture, aroma, and taste in perfect balance.
From Jukuhou Farm
Using fillet from Jukuhou Farm’s “Sustainable Wagyu Juku” aged cattle, the meat is charcoal-grilled to bring out its natural flavor to the fullest. The sauce and accompaniments are carefully designed to create a harmonious balance of spice, sweetness, aroma, and acidity.
Charcoal-grilled fillet from aged Jukuhou Farm Wagyu is paired with Priore Vignali 2017, made from the indigenous Cesanese del Piglio grape in Lazio, Italy—a distinctive red with balanced spice and acidity.
Dessert & Finale
Fermented Milk & Lemon
A dessert themed on fermentation, combining panna cotta made with fermented milk, fermented lemon jam, and feijoa syrup from Kameoka for a refreshing yet deep flavor.
Citrus from Naito Farm & Chamomile
The freshly baked crepe’s toasty aroma complements the bright citrus, finished with a warm orange liqueur sauce—an elegant contrast of taste and temperature.
Café Confections
To conclude the course, three small sweets are served: biscotti, polvorón, and matcha macaron. The biscotti, traditionally enjoyed in Italy by dipping in tea or coffee, transforms into a tender, delicate bite.
The biscotti, crisp from the oven, becomes soft and gentle when dipped in tea or coffee, as is custom in Italy.
Summary & Impressions
The cuisine at shiro, inheriting the rich ingredients and culture of Shimane and evolving on the new stage of Kyoto, represents Chef Takenaka’s latest challenge. Fresh seafood from Hamada Port, fillet of aged cattle from Jukuhou Farm, Kujo leeks and rapeseed blossoms from Kameoka—by deeply connecting with local producers, the dishes maximize the power of each ingredient, creating profound flavors through simplicity.
Complementing the cuisine is the quiet, refined atmosphere of IDO KYOTO in Kyoto. By moving the stage from Shimane to Kyoto, Chef Takenaka’s pursuit of new expression deepens the world of shiro. White is not a color of emptiness but a hue of infinite possibilities. By stripping away the unnecessary, it accentuates the essence of each ingredient. What I felt through the dishes was the beauty of negative space and the wonder of harmony. The combination of Shimane ingredients × Kyoto’s space × Chef Takenaka’s new challenge creates a serene, sophisticated food world that leaves a lingering desire to return.
Reservation & Access Information
Reservation Method:
We recommend making reservations via the web reservation systems on Tabelog, Ikkyu, or TableCheck.
For single-person reservations, please inquire by email through the official website.
Access Information:
Address: IDO 2F, 287 Takoyakushi-cho, Muromachi-dori Nijo-sagaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto
Nearest Station: Approximately a 3-minute walk from Karasuma Oike Station (Kyoto City Subway Karasuma Line)
Business Hours:
Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays: 18:30 prompt start (doors open at 18:15)
Saturdays & Sundays: 12:00 prompt start (doors open at 11:45) and 18:00 prompt start (doors open at 17:45)
Closed: Mondays & Tuesdays
Notes:
As all guests begin at the same time, late arrivals may not receive the full course.
Menus are built around seasonal ingredients; changes due to allergies or dislikes are generally not accepted.
Dishes evolve gradually over two-month periods—if you wish to avoid repeating items, please book at least two months apart.
For details and the latest updates, please check the official website.
- TAGS
