DAY 1
For the first half of this journey, see here:
CONTENTS
Arriving at the Inn
Our base for this leg of the trip is the area around Obama Onsen. Located on the western side of the Shimabara Peninsula, facing Tachibana Bay, it’s roughly a 40-minute drive from Shimabara City, home to Pescico.
Obama is known as the hot spring area with the highest source temperature in all of Japan, its streets defined by an abundant flow of water and an atmospheric haze of rising steam. Hot spring facilities and steaming pots dot the coastline, and the area is rich with gourmet spots offering Obama’s signature jigoku-mushi steaming and fresh seafood.
The hot spring town also features foot baths and scenic viewpoints, making it an ideal place to unwind and soak in the blessings of the springs at a leisurely pace. In recent years, a wave of new restaurants has emerged, drawing on the rich natural bounty of the Shimabara Peninsula and embracing a farm-to-table style of gastronomy. With restaurants now earning recognition from the Michelin Guide and Tabelog Awards, the area is increasingly gaining attention as a culinary destination in its own right.
Yuyado Jokiya
Upon arriving in Obama, our first stop is checking in at our inn for this leg of the trip.
Read more about Yuyado Jokiya here:
Heading to Our Reserved Restaurant
Locanda del Campo
The easiest way to get from Yuyado Jokiya to Locanda del Campo is via the local partner onsen taxi service. The distance is about 10 kilometers, taking roughly 20 minutes. Along the way, you’ll pass the beautiful coastline of Tachibana Bay and the majestic peaks of Mount Unzen, taking in some of Nagasaki Prefecture’s most scenic views.
Read more about Locanda del Campo here:
After enjoying a wonderful dinner at Locanda del Campo, we took the onsen taxi back to the inn. Nights in the hot spring town are quiet and calm, offering the perfect setting to relax and savor the lingering pleasure of the meal.
Once back at the inn, it’s worth soaking in the hot springs once more to warm up fully and ease away the fatigue of travel. After bathing, relaxing in your room with a taste of Obama’s local specialties, or enjoying a bottle of wine you picked up earlier, makes for the perfect nightcap.
Convenience stores are a bit of a walk from the area, so it’s worth picking up anything you might need in advance. Having drinks, light snacks, or a few nibbles on hand makes for a much more comfortable evening.
*Note: bathing after drinking too much can be dangerous, so please be mindful. It places extra strain on the body, so be sure to pace yourself, take breaks as needed, and enjoy responsibly.
DAY 2
Sourcing Ingredients for Breakfast
Tanaka Fish Shop
We picked up our breakfast ingredients at Tanaka Fish Shop, about a 5-minute walk from the inn. Located along Obama Onsen’s main street, this fish shop carries a wide selection of fresh, locally caught seafood. It’s a trusted supplier used by popular local restaurants like Locanda del Campo and BEARD.
The fish we bought were cleaned and scaled on the spot, making the cooking process back at the inn wonderfully easy.
- ADDRESS
長崎県雲仙市小浜町北本町114-14
- OPEN
月・火・水・木・金・土
06:30 - 18:00
定休日 日
Jigoku-Mushi Cooking
When we asked for the day’s recommendation, we were pointed toward a vividly colored golden threadfin bream, which we chose right away. We also spotted swimming crab — known locally on the Shimabara Peninsula as “gane” — and picked some up as well.
Obama’s specialty “etari no shiokara” (salted anchovy) is a favorite of mine, first recommended to us during a meal at BEARD, and something I now buy every time we visit.
A simple preparation using jigoku-mushi steaming.
The threadfin bream takes about 15 minutes in the steamer, while the swimming crab needs about 20 minutes. The inn’s kitchen has a helpful guide posted with recommended steaming times, so even first-timers can cook with confidence.
Slowly steamed in the hot spring’s natural vapor, the fish came out plump and tender, its umami beautifully concentrated. Cracking open the crab revealed generous, juicy meat with a wonderful natural sweetness!
Simple as it was, the seafood — slowly steamed in the natural vapor of the hot springs — brought out the full character of the ingredients, making for a breakfast that truly captured the singular pleasure of Obama’s onsen-steamed cuisine.
Obama Onsen’s Signature Confection: Yu-senbei
On our way to Tanaka Fish Shop, a local grandmother stopped us and, quite unexpectedly, offered us some “yu-senbei” — a small, delightful accident that left us with a warm feeling, the kind of spontaneous connection only a hot-spring town can offer.
“Yu-senbei” is a specialty of Obama Onsen, a traditional confection made using the local hot spring water, known for its crisp, light texture and simple, understated sweetness. Made with humble ingredients, it carries a subtle saltiness that makes it easy to keep reaching for more.
Yusenbei Honpo Shindo Senbei-ten
Among the shops selling it, “Yusenbei Honpo Shindo Senbei-ten” stands out as a shop with over 100 years of history, still baking its yu-senbei using traditional methods passed down through generations.
It’s a classic choice for a souvenir. This chance encounter left us with a renewed appreciation for the warmth of Obama Onsen.
- ADDRESS
長崎県雲仙市小浜町北本町862
- OPEN
9：00～なくなり次第終了
定休日 不定休
A Journey Through Obama and Chijiwa, with Locanda del Campo as the Destination
This trip was more than sightseeing — it was a journey of healing, one that restored both mind and body.
Obama Onsen is a destination that offers far more than just hot springs; it’s a place to savor gastronomy built on local ingredients. Fresh seafood, signature regional dishes, and the natural blessings of the hot springs all come together in a truly indulgent stretch of time.
It’s a trip perfectly suited to anyone looking to step away from the noise of daily life and fully indulge the senses. I’m already looking forward to returning in a different season, to experience a whole new side of the Shimabara Peninsula.
- TAGS
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